Jakar, Bhutan

Janbay Llakhang

Jakar is a small town located midway on the main east-west highway in Bhutan. This one-street town in Bumtang valley is famous for the serene, tranquil atmosphere and numerous monasteries. My second trip to Jakar was in May-15. I ended up staying 5 days in Jakar soaking up the wonderful scenery and timeless cultural heritage.

After reaching Thimpu permits have to be taken to travel further east. Obtaining a permit takes 3-4 hours. I went down to the taxi stand at Thimpu to get a share-taxi to Jakar, but was informed that only buses ply to Jakar and beyond. To travel by car, I would have to hire cab for the entire trip. Struck a deal with a cab driver for Nu 12,000/- for 5 day round trip to Jakar including local trips in Bumtang valley. Nu 3000/- was to be paid for every additional travel day. Our taxi driver was planning to visit his family in Jakar and hence got the trip on relatively cheap. Since the trip was too long we decided to break the journey at Trongsa. Stayed at hotel Phuntsho Perli. It’s a non-discript hotel near the vegetable market.  Jakar is 1.5 hrs away from Trongsa.

Jakar Dzong above town

We reached Jakar by noon next day and started searching for a place to stay. The hotel we had in planned to stay in was closed.  Decided to have lunch in town before searching for alternate accommodation. At the restaurant we ran into the owner of Ngekor Hotel. She offered us rooms at a reasonable price. Hotel Ngekor is bang opposite Janbay Llakhang and we ended up staying 5 days there. It’s an ideal location to visit the monastery during morning prayer time when there are no tourists.

Khurjey Llakhang

As my travelling companion got unwell we had to visit the local hospital. The district hospital is located in a traditional building just outside town.  The building is spotlessly clean and the staff are very friendly. Bhutan believes in free universal healthcare. In case of major ailments patients are referred to Thimpu and beyond. . There only pharmacy in Jakar is not well stocked.

The most popular tourist spots are like Janbay Llakhang, Khurjay Llakhang, Kenchogsum monastery, Jakar Dzong are close to Jakar town. Restoration work was in progress in Kenchogsum monastery as the monastery was damaged in a fire. Swiss cheese factory is also a popular stop on the tourist itinerary. The walk across the suspension bridge to Kenchogsum monastery from Khurjay Llakhang is also highly recommended.

Membartso Lake

Membartso Lake (Burning lake): 30 Min drive towards east of Jakar town lies Membartso lake.  Legend has it that that Guru Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche) buried many treasures (Spiritual treasures) during his lifetime to be discovered later at an appropriate age. Pema Lingpa found some of these treasures hidden by Guru Padmasambhava from the depths of Membartso lake. He was alone when he first found these treasures. The locals and district administration accused him of being a fraud and trickster. Pema Lingpa was again instructed by higher powers to dive into Membartso and collect the second tranche of hidden treasures. Pema Lingpa jumped into the water with a lighted lamp in full view of the administration officials and numerous other curious onlookers. After a long time Pema Lingpa did not surface and everyone assumed that he had drowned. He suddenly surfaced with a statue of Buddha, a few treasures and behold, the lamp was still lit. Even today enlightened people can see the temple in the waters below Membartso. Mere mortals see only water flowing past. No prizes for guessing what I saw :)

Tang Rimochen Llakhang

Tang RimochenLlakhang: The delightful temple of Tang Rimochen Llakhang is situated beyond Membartso. 1.5-2 hours’ drive through bumpy roads beyond Membartso will lead to Tang Rimochen Llakhang.This is definitely the most delightful monastery that I’ve visited during my say in Jakar. Very few tourists visit the monastery. Bring packed lunch and savour it on the banks of the stream that runs next to the monastery.

Footprint of Padmasambhava

The monastery is situated next to a vertical cliff. The distinctive stripes on the mountain are supposed to resemble tiger stripes and hence the name ‘Tang’ which means ‘tiger stripes’. The other half of this rock is believed to be the rock at the Takshang Goemba in Paro over 250 KM away!!!! I was the only visitor at the monastery and the resident monk opened up the main shrine for us. Inside are innumerable statues and scores of prayer books. Since he did not speak Hindi or English , my taxi driver did his best to translate, as did 2 school boys who were playing outside at the temple. Adjacent to the main temple is a small room with two huge prayer wheels and magnificent wall paintings of Buddha.

Kenchogsum Monastry

   Guru Padmasambhava (Guru Rimpoche) is supposed to have visited this temple. The mark on the small rock in front of the temple that is believed to be his foot imprint. There are numerous other marks on the huge rock behind the temple that are supposed to be the marks of various deities. At the rear of the temple in a wooden cabinet (adjacent to the huge prayer wheels) are a few rocks with interesting stories. Carrying a particular stone from this cupboard around the temple is supposed to make women pregnant. Outside the road (opposite the temple) is another rock with a few curious depressions. It is supposed to be the holy spot where Guru Padmasambhava had sex with his consort!!

Prayer flags

 Even today elderly people come and live a spartan life in this temple (even up to a few months) in the hope of getting a better life in their next birth.  I saw 3 such women in the temple. Legend has it that two old women who were residing at the temple were called by the gods to enter the rock and see all the treasures. One of the ladies went inside the rock and the other went to call the villagers. By the time the old lady came back with the villagers, her friend who had gone inside the rock came out and the rock shut close. Nobody has seen the treasures inside the rock since.Climbing the stone in front of the temple is supposed to liberate past sins. There are numerous legends/stories about the stones, rocks and people which may not stand up to modern scientific scrutiny but I would nonetheless prefer to believe in them.

Footnote: Like the rest of Bhutan, Jakar is also modernising rapidly. There has been a lot of changes since to since my last visit 5 years ago. There are more resorts and the monasteries are getting commercialised. Nightclubs have opened up even in remote Jakar. Tourists do bring money into the local economy, but it may be at the cost of the traditional lifestyle and culture we tourists anticipate to see.

Getting there:

Jakar Airport

By Avion: There are flights thrice a week from Thimpu. Flight duration is about 30 Minutes. Fare for non-Bhutanese is approx. 175$. The building on the left is Jakar airport control tower, Check in lounge, Departure lounge, Security check and baggage claim area!!

By road: Road widening is in progress on the road to Jakar . The roads are closed up to two hours for rock blasting and engineering work.  If the journey is not planned taking into these road closures anticipate spending up to 12 hours on the road for the Thimpu-Jakar journey.

Permits: To proceed further East from Thimpu, it is necessary to apply for a permit. The process takes about half a day.

• Bhutan

• Jomolhari Trek

• Paro Thimpu Trek

Typical lunch with dal, beef and rice

Hanging upside down are the protective guardians to the prayer room

Weaving is a household chore

Trongsa Dzong