Agastyarkoodam Trek

June 24, 2024

Agastyarkoodam Trek

Agastyarkoodam Trek or Agastyakoodam trek is a 3 day trek in the south Indian state of Kerala. It has the reputation as the most difficult trek in the state. It’s normally done in 3 days, but with a bit of effort, can be completed in 2 days. The trek will take me to Agastyarkoodam peak, the second highest peak in Kerala. The entire trek runs through Peppara Wildlife Sanctuary, which is part of Agastyamala Biosphere reserve. Due to its unique flora and fauna, UNESCO has included Agastyamala in the World Network of Biosphere Reserves.

This trek was on my ‘to do’ list for quite a while. But, obtaining a permit for this trek is no easy matter. The trek is organized by Kerala forest department. The trek costs is aprox Rs.3000. Historically, women were not allowed to go to Agastyarkoodam peak. Women started arriving after a court ruling in 2018 mandated that the trek/pilgrimage be opened up for women. Trekking permits, as a rule, are not issued in monsoon season. In trekking season, there are 3 groups per week. There are about 100 people in each group. The online bookings get sold out as soon as they open. I managed to set 5 seats though direct booking at the forest office. One has to go the forest office at Trivandrum and pay cash to the officer in charge.

Wild fungus growing on a fallen tree

Online payments are not accepted for direct bookings. This paper receipt obtained after payment of trekking fees is very important. Without this receipt, the permission to enter the trek will be denied. However, getting a permit does not mean the trek will happen! Due to rain or fog, the trek can get postponed indefinitely. My friends trek’s got was delayed by 3 months due to bad weather! A delay 3 months is luxury that I don’t have. I should break a coconut and appease the rain Gods for fair weather during my trek.

Agastyarkoodam peak

Day 1 : Bonacaud – Base camp (14.1 KM)

It's 14-Dec-24. We have reached the starting point, the forest check post at Bonacaud, by 08:45 Hrs. We have reached here relatively early. The forest officer posted here will verify the payment receipt, personal ID’s and medical certificate before the trek starts. About 2 years ago, one of the trekkers succumbed to a heart attack while descending back from base camp. Since then, a medical certificate has become mandatory. Bags that have to be taken on the trek are thoroughly inspected. Plastic items are frowned down upon. Most of the plastic items, except bare essentials, will be removed. Alcohol and other intoxicants, if found, will also be confiscated.

It was foggy at the top

At the Agastyarkoodam peak, is a temple dedicated to the revered sage Agastya Muni. That’s how the place gets its name. In times gone by, most of the people going to Agastyarkoodam peak were pilgrims. Nowadays, there are more trekkers than pilgrims. However, about half the people in our group are devotees. Late December is Shabarimala temple season. Most of pilgrims in my group here have already completed Shabarimala temple circuit before arriving here. Surprisingly, all of them are Tamilians. I noticed a group of devotees having their bags checked. They were carrying religious paraphernalia like flowers, incense sticks etc. as offerings. Carriage of religious items are forbidden and the forest officer removed all of it. There is a mild pandemonium but the officer stood his ground.

Tks to him, we had lunch!

By now, I have realised that lunch is not included in today’s itinerary. We are not carrying any food with us. The starting point of the trek is far removed from civilization. There is no way we can even buy biscuits; let alone lunch. And then, divine providence smiled upon us. My friend, whose trek got cancelled for 3 months due to bad weather, ended up doing the trek with us today. He came to us with 5 packs of lunch! Apparently, many in his group had failed to turn up and there was excess food with them. Oh enlightened sage Sapta Rishi Agastya Muni. Tks for the lunch!

The trek started in earnest by 09:50 Hrs. Each group is accompanied by 2 local guides for the entire journey. The cost of the guides is already included in the trek fees. They will accompany us until we are back down on day 3. Earlier, bamboo poles were provided for all the trekkers at the starting point. This practice has been discontinued for a while. It’s a gorgeous day for trekking with fair winds and clear skies. The first part of the trek is quite easy. The route meanders along the thick forest. There are numerous streams and river crossings. It is quite a beautiful walk. We stopped at a place called Attayar to have lunch. It’s almost the half-way mark on today’s trail. At Attayar, a wide brook crosses the trail. That’s it! There is no trace of human activity here. I’m surprised that this place even has a name! At this gorgeous place under the shade of a massive tree, we first paid obeisance to our friend who gave us the lunch packets and quickly gobbled up our food.

Agastyarkoodam peak in the distance

We plod along. I reach a large grassy meadow devoid of trees. Aastyakoodam Peak is visible in the distance. Our guide told us that the difficult section of the trail begins at the end of this meadow. The first real challenge is a place called 'Ezhu Madakku'. It translates to ‘7 folds’. During the days of the Raj, there were plantations in this area. 7 hairpin bends were cut for the horse drawn carriages to reach the plantations. The hairpin bends have long been reclaimed by nature. The walking trail does not follow the hairpin bends. The ascent is quite steep here. But this pales in comparison to the next section that’s aptly called ‘Muttu Adi’. This Malayalam word loosely translates to ‘Knees touching’. The name should give an idea of how steep it is. Thankfully, it’s only a short stretch.

There are many such crossings

It’s a short hike from the top of Muttu Adi to the base camp. I reached base camp by 3:15 PM. I’m among the first people to get here today. The forest officer checked my permit and made an entry in his register. There are 2 dorms made of corrugated tin sheets at base camp. The smaller dorm is for women. In the dorms, mattress are laid on the floor touching each other. In addition to the dorm, there is a communal eating area that can accommodate about 30 people. There are about 10 toilets in the rear. It has running water and was surprisingly clean.

Dorm at base camp

Since I’m among the first to arrive, I get to pick the best place in the dorm. To say that I am the first here would technically be untrue. I was beaten to it by our guide dogs! There are stray dogs that walk up with the trekkers, especially the lead teams. The dogs joined us somewhere after Bonacaud. These dogs are superbly well behaved. They keep a respectful distance and never bark. When we stop for a breather, the dogs also stop. When we stopped for lunch, we did share our food with them. They remind me of the dogs at Chaturagiri (Click here)

There is beauty in every leaf

By 5 PM, we are provided with snacks and black tea. The dog got his share too. There is a brook beside the dorm at Base Camp. The water is too cold for my comfort but a hardy few are taking a spirited plunge. By sundown, is has become foggy. The staff at the base camp are trying to switch on the solar powered lighting system. I later learned that the solar panels and ancillary equipment had undergone renovation recently and none on duty knew how to operate it! It’s dark when the lights finally turned on. Lighting is limited to the communal kitchen and a few exterior locations. There are no lights inside the dorm.

And the fun continues. Dinner is getting delayed. We were told that the regular cook had gone down from base camp the previous day. He partied a little too hard last night. Inebriated, he was unable to walk up today! So the cook’s assistant is holding the fort. Dinner was kanji and payar. It’s pretty decent. The assistant deserves to be promoted; or perhaps I was too hungry!

Our guide came up to us after dinner and suggested we start the trek early tomorrow. Breakfast is served at 7. Normally, people finish breakfast and start the trek by 7:30 AM. Our plan is to depart by 6:30. One of the guides will come with us and lead the way. Other will collect breakfast once it’s ready and catch up with us. It turned out to be a splendid decision. By 7:45 PM, it has started raining heavily. I’m getting worried about tomorrow. If the rains are too strong, the trek to Agastyarkoodam peak will be cancelled. I should have broken that coconut before I arrived!

Breakfast day 2

Day 2 : Base camp – Agastyarkoodam Peak – Base camp (5.3 KM)

It rained heavily the whole night. Thankfully, by morning the rains have stopped. It’s quite cloudy and the mountains are obscured by fog. We start walking by 06:40 AM. We are the only group setting off from the base camp. Again, that would be a lie because the guide dog was leading the path. In case we come back early, we plan to decent to Bonacaud today itself.

Stone making Kerala-Tamil Nadu border

The trail to the peak is a bit steep but quite beautiful. The trail crosses into Tamil Nadu and then returns to Kerala (see photo). During the hike, I spotted wild elephants on the adjacent mountain. The guides told me that there have been instances when elephants have toyed around with trekkers, but that’s exceedingly rare. As we ascent, the fog becomes denser. By 8:15 AM, the second guide carrying our breakfast, caught up with us. On today’s sumptuous breakfast buffet menu is Puri and curry. My guide bought puri wrapped in a newspaper and the curry in a Nescafe bottle. We plucked some broad leaves and used it as a plate. Washed our hands with water running down the rocks. The dog got his share too. It was a meal to remember. It’s the kind of ambience that can never be created by man. (see photo)

Ropes for climbing the rocks

We finish breakfast and move on. Soon, I reach the section that gives this trail its tall reputation. On steep rock faces, ropes have been laid out. One has climb up the rocks using these ropes. The water flowing down the rocks is making the climb a bit more slippery and adventitious. Only one person can use this rope at a time. Hence our guides suggested we start early to avoid the queue. As we ponder around, the guide dog ran up the steep rock like it was a child’s play!

I am the first to reach the peak today. Well, after the dog, that is! It’s windy and the peak is covered in dense fog. It’s a tad disappointing to miss the amazing views from the top. At one corner of the peak is a small temple dedicated to Agastya Muni. Even though it’s extremely windy today at the peak, the place where the temple is located is wind free! It’s so calm beside the temple that it might even be possible to light a lamp. It’s sad to see paper, plastic wrappers of incense sticks and other religious paraphernalia strewn around this temple. Devotees should take back the trash they bring with them. We have not yet learnt the mantra that cleanliness is godliness.

Temple to Agastya Muni as Agastyarkoodam peak

As we stand in the thick fog, my guide narrated the legend of Agastyarkoodam peak. Lord Shiva is getting hitched. It’s a big fat Indian wedding and all are invited to Shiva Lokam, Lord Shiva’s official residence. The great sage Agastya Muni is among the wedding guests. Shiva Lokam is unable to bear the magnificence of this Agastya Mun and it tilts to one side. There is pandemonium at the wedding. Kicking him out would be uncool. So, Lord Shiva proposes an alternate location from where Agastya Muni can see Shiva Lokam and the wedding. Agastya Muni is all too happy to agree. Agastya Muni is beamed down to the location that is today known as Agastyarkoodam peak. An internet search will reveal that there are many variations to the story narrated by our guide. However, the legend that those with a pure heart can see Shiva’s abode from Agastyarkoodam peak and sinners get fog and poor visibility is totally untrue. 😊

We don’t wait long at the peak. The guide dog is leading the pack. As we descent, we cross paths with trekkers hiking up. At places where the ropes are laid, we wait for upcoming traffic to clear up. It’s an uneventful walk. I’m back at base camp by 12:15. My guide dog is already relaxing at the camp site. A part of me wants to go down today, but my heart wants to stay in this wilderness. Some in my group have leg pain and we decide to stay back at the Base Camp. It was past 5 PM when the last of the trekkers arrived back at from Agastyarkoodam peak.

The sacred grove near Base Camp

In the evening, I made friends with the forest officer posted here. He told us more about the history of the place. The working conditions in the plantations during the days of the Raj were absolutely horrendous. The plantation workers were often slaves. They were blindfolded and transported here. Once they arrived here, they could not find their way out. The place where the workers were blindfolded is located in the state of Tamil Nadu. The place is now called as ‘Kannu Ketty’. The word ‘Kannu Ketty’ means ‘eyes tied’ or ‘eyes closed’. It’s hard to believe that this oasis of tranquility has such a dark past. After India’s Independence, the plantations were abandoned and nature gradually returned. The crops that were cultivated here can still be spotted among the thick foliage.

Agastyarkoodam peak hidden in the clouds

I have a lot of time on my hands. In the evening, I went to the brook and cold water shower. It’s refreshing. Dinner is on time today. The main cook is back and thankfully he’s sobber. Most of the cooking is done on firewood, but they also use LPG cooking cylinders. Apart from the main trail that trekkers use, there exists a shorter alternate trail. Anything that reaches Base Camp is carried by human porters through this shorter trail. It takes 2 people carry an LPG cylinder to base camp. The porters charge approx Rs 1100 per cylinder. An empty LPG cylinder is transported down by one person for Rs 800 . Hence the cost of the LPG cyclinder, including transport cost, works out to Rs 3000 Similarly, every item has a steep markup cost once it gets to base camp. The price of the trek (Approx Rs. 3000) includes the cost of 2 guides, 2 night’s accommodation and 5 meals. I think it’s a reasonable price. By night, it’s raining again. I retire to our beds early.

Sunrise as we descend to Bonacaud

Day 3 : Base camp – Bonacaud (14.1 KM)

It’s a clear day today. We start by 0655. Like yesterday, we plan to have breakfast on the road. My trusted guide dog is leading the way. Some sections of the trail are quite slippery due to the heavy rains, but it’s a great walk. The scenery is amazing. About an hour and half into the decent, my guide dog stopped walking. He stood in one place, and started barking furiously into the woods. So far, I had never seen this guy even making a whimper. I’m perplexed and I stop waking. The dog stops barking when he sees that I’m not walking ahead. Our guide approached the guide dog. On the wet soil beside the guide dog was the fresh pug mark of a wild animal. We are all amazed by the intelligence of this dog. These guide dogs always live in the forest area. They rarely venture even up to Bonacaud forest station.

Leech bites galore

While walking down, I slip into a small brook. My shoes are soaking wet. I removed then and started walking in my floaters. The trail is reasonably well maintained and it does not affect my walking pace. Stopped for a late breakfast at Attayar. While eating breakfast, I noticed a few leeches drinking my blood with gusto. Without shoes, I became an easy target! As expected, it took a while for the blood to clot. (See photo)

The knot saved the day!

It’s getting cloudy. We meet other trekkers walking up to base camp. It’s a mixed bag of trekkers and devotees. I’m back at Bonacaud by 1130 and just in time before the heavy rains started. The trek is over. Another ticked off the bucket list. I look for my guide dog, but he’s gone. He will be accompanying the trekkers hiking up to Base Camp today. You will be sorely missed.

As a kid, I had heard stories that the wind in forest near the holy Agastarkoodam peak smells of sandalwood. That, unfortunately, turned out to be untrue. But, it was a memorable trek. We stop beside the plantations, a little beyond Bonacaud, and took a dip in the flowing stream. It’s cold and refreshing. As we start driving back home, all of us have only one thing in mind. And the great sage Agastya Muni showered his blessings on us. The porotta and beef fry at the shop we stopped for lunch was par excellence!

My other treks (Click here)