Satkosia Tiger Reserve, Odisha

Located in central Odisha on either side of Mahanadi river is Satkosia tiger reserve.  Spent 2 nights at Satkisoa in 2016.

Count the parrots

Arrived at Angul from Bhubaneshawr by the morning train. The train journey takes about 4 hours. Public transport from Angul railway station to Satkosia is almost non-existent. The auto-rickshaw from the railway station to Satkosia costs Rs. 700/-.

Accommodation has to be booked through the District Forest Officer (DFO) and permit obtained prior entry into the tiger reserve. The entrance to Satkosia is approx  30 KM from Angul station. It's only after we reached the forest check post that we realised that the permits are to be obtained from the DFO at Angul and not from Satkosia. The check-post guard called DFO Angul from his office and after an hours wait we were granted entry. 

Purnakote Guest House

There are two main accommodation sites inside Satkosia - Chotkei and Purnakote. The Chotkei camp is more remote but is more commercially run. DFO allotted us accommodation at Purnakote. There are only 2 "tents" and 2 rooms at Purnakote. The two "tents" are pitched under a permanent roof and there is a toilet on either side of the tent. For the first day we got a "tent" and on the second day we were allotted the room. There are a few rooms at Tikarpada also.

Tent accommodation at Purnakote

All these guest houses are located in the catchment area of the forest. There are houses and shops near the guest houses. Purnakote guest house is located beside the road (with almost no traffic) between the local Forest Office and school. There is no accommodation in the 'heart' of the forest. There are a few villages deep in the forest but these are out of bounds for tourists. The tent accommodation on the beach that seems to turn up in most websites has been discontinued. 

Warning sign at Tikarpaa

The camp atmosphere at Purnakote  laid back and tranquil. There are 4 staff (including the cook and manager) at Purnakote . All the food is cooked on a wooden burning earthen stove. While boiling water, the cook had to hold the handle of the pan all the time as the top of the earthen was uneven. Kitchen was smoky as it has no ventilation. I hope that the authorities would provide basic amenities to their staff. We had lunch at 3 PM and dinner was served at 10 PM!!! The staff do their best to help the guests, but they have to make do with what they have got.

Tikarpada (inside Satkosia) has a "Gharial Research and conservation Unit". Gharials can be seen a few cages. Boat rides are available at Tikarpada. During my visit the boats were not available as annual animal census was in progress.

Chotkei camp

Treks can be arranged only from Chotkei guest house. I went for a morning trek but did not see any wild animals. Summer months are the best time to catch a glimpse of the wild animals. During summer the animals come out from the deep forest in search of water. Even-though motor vehicles are not allowed into the forest, I was told that some people do undertake the journey at night with the convenience of the forest guards.

Clashes between naxals and government forces are not uncommon in Satkosia. Tourists are normally not targeted. Non-Indian nationals will not be given permission to enter Satkosia.