Dzukou Valley

November 14, 2019

Dzukou Valley

Dzukou river

Dzukou valley is the most popular trekking destination in Nagaland. Due to the proximity to Kohima and unparalleled beauty, it should be on everyone’s itinerary. Its best to visit Dzokou in the months of June to August when the flowers are in bloom. I visited Dzokou in May-19.

The word ‘Dzukou’ could have originated from the local word meaning ‘cold water’. The water in the river running through Dzukou valley is always cold; hence the name Dzukou. In winter the river freezes over. During monsoons, the water flow in the river is very strong. Deaths by drowning are not uncommon. There could be another origin to the term ‘Dzukou’. It is said that the times gone by the villages would plant a special variety of cactus called ‘Savu’ in uninhabited places. If the Savu plant thrived, it meant that the place was fit for cultivation and hence human habitation. Despite the best efforts of the villagers, the Savu plant died and the villagers gave up all hope of cultivation. Hence the place could have got its name from the local word Dzukou that also means “soul-less”.

Zakama

To avoid the rush of Kohima I had chosen to stay in the family run Native Stories homestay at Viswema. There are two paths to Dzukou valley from Viswema (or Kohima). The easiest route while going up to Dzukou is to take a vehicle to Kigwema. However, the road to Kigwema is off the main path and a private vehicle will charge Rs 2000. While descending, it’s advisable to use the trail through Zakama. The trail through Zakama is better maintained than the Kigwema path. Transport from Zakama to Viswema costs only Rs 500. It’s not uncommon for people to get lost during the trek and a guide is advisable.

Walking through the bamboo path

From Viswema, the trail ascends for about 1 hour. Then it’s a long walk to the guesthouse at Dzukou valley. In all, it’s a 3 hour walk from Viswema to Dzukou guest hose. Contrary to popular belief, the lush greenery is entirely comprised of various types of bamboo. There are bamboo’s that are less than half a meter tall to larger ones that about 3 meters tall. The guesthouse at Dzukou is run by the ‘Southern Angami Youth Organisation’. Dzukou, like many places in Nagaland is managed by the local community and not the state. Southern Angami Youth Organisation manages Dzukou and they charge Rs 100 as entry fees. Among other things, they spearhead the search for missing trekkers in Dzokou valley. Basic food is available at the guest house. The dormitory costs Rs. 100 per person. Blankets are available on hire for an extra fee. In addition to the dorm, there are about 4 rooms (Rs. 1000). The wooden boards of the rooms are not set properly and the room becomes cold at night. There is no light inside the rooms so come prepared with a candle or torch light. There is one common solar powered light outside for all the private rooms.

The trail thtough Zakama and Viswema bifurcates here

After lunch, I went for a hike in the valley below. It makes for a very pleasant walk. We crossed the river and went to the big cross on the other side of the mountain. A lot of this area is recovering after the forest fire of 2018. Green bamboo shoots were sprouting all over from the charred land. The fire in December 2018 burned down a large area of Dzukou. Local people and the emergency services battled the fire for many days. The fire happened a week before the biggest tourist festival of Nagaland- the Hornbill festival. To make matters worse, the campers were from the neighbouring state Manipur. The state of Manipur claims that Dzokou belongs to them and not Nagaland. The timing of the fire and the fact that it was caused by Manipuri campers raised many eyebrows. Many believed that the campers were guilty only of negligence; they did not extinguish the fire in their campsite.

Cross installed beside the river

During my visit, the ‘Revival Church’ had bought its young members for a 3 day Easter retreat at Dzukou. There were 102 children attending the Easter conclave. The pastor was a very friendly local man who now lives in Dhimapur. Many kids attending the conclave were addicted to cigarettes, booze and even drugs. He said that the Easter conclave was being held in a remote place like Dzukou so that the kids could not have access to intoxicants! He was not worried about the Dzukou forest fire, in fact he welcomed it. Burning sections of Dzokou was a regular practice. In his youth, the hunters from the village would set fire to parts of Dzokou valley to drive out animals. The burned out areas would recover quickly and produce the best flowers later in the year. The people who come to see the flowers in Dzukou in 2019 can expect a wonderful floral treat.

The black burnt out areas

I used the Zakama route for the descent. The trail is beautiful. At the mid-point of the trail is a small waiting area. This is the only shelter between Zakama and Dzukou. The trail descends quite steeply for 3/4th of the way. Then the descend becomes a gentler. Stopped beside a brook and took a rather long break. It had taken about 3 hours to get down to Zakama. Compared to the Kigwema route, this path is better maintained. From here, it’s only a short ride to Viswema.

Places to visit in Dzokou

One of the many caves

The caves: There are numerous caves in the valley below. These caves were used as hiding places by the freedom fighters during the British era. Later the Naga fighters used these caves when fighting for independence from India. Today these caves are used by local groups as camping sites. The fire of 2018 broke out from one of these caves used by the campers. Camping has been temporarily suspended until in Dzukou valley until 2020.

Devils fort (Tevu Tsufe): This natural rock formation resembles a fort. Hence the name. It’s on the other side of the river.

Dzukou river

The river: Perhaps Dzukou valley gets its name from this river. It’s mandatory to go down to the valley and into the river. Feeling brave? Take a dip in the icy cold water. The walk to the river through the bamboo forest in itself is magical.

Phe Phu Peak: The name literally means meaning ‘Where we view the villages’. This is the highest peak in the area. It’s the peak that’s visible behind the Dzukou dormitory. Even though it looks close, getting to the peak take a day as the mountain is thickly forested. It is believed that the Savu cactus was planted on this peak.