Mokokchung

November 07, 2019

Mokokchung

Mopumchuket Sunset

Mokokchung city is the capital of Mokokchung district. It is also a major regional transport hub. There are regular bus and Sumo services to Kohima. I spend 2 nights here in Apr-19. It is an ideal hub to the explore nearby places of interest. It’s best to hire a taxi from Mokuchung to explore nearby areas. Relying on public transport to explore the vicinity will be a disaster.

Make sure to try the local lunch consisting of rice, pork curry and black sauce made from the fermented leaves of the yam plant. This black sauce called Anishi is the culinary delicacy of the local Ao tribe.

Elders at the handicrafts center

Places to vist

Ungma: It is one of the larger villages in Nagaland. The village is spotlessly clean as the local council levies a fine for littering. There is a memorial for the first martyr from Ungma against the British occupation. There is a training centre for teaching traditional handicrafts to the new generation. I went inside and saw a couple of old men busy making bamboo household items. They were very friendly and offered me some tea in a bamboo cup. Purchased (Rs. 350/-) a huge triangular woven bamboo tray (Muram) that’s used, among other things, for winnowing rice. Without such training centers, the traditional crafts of Nagaland will soon vanish with the elder generation.

Ungma Tower

Beside the training centre is a tower which looks like a cross. It is said that in the olden days a fire would be lit under this pole. If the smoke went straight up, it meant that the gods had heard their prayers.

Walk up the road to the lookout tower beside the traditional Morung. Do not miss the views from the top. Beside the lookout tower is the statue of the three people who opened up this area for development. Ungma might have the reputation for being the Mafioso capital of Nagaland, but it’s definitely worth a visit.

Longkhum: The road to Longkhum makes for a pleasant drive. It had started raining very heavily. The heavy rain and fog has made the scenery particularly attractive. Do not miss the tree lined steps that lead to Longkhum.

Longlaba Stones

The taxi driver who also doubled as my guide and translator took us to see the Imkongmeren Memorial Site. He was one of the earliest Naga freedom fighters. My taxi driver then took us to the house of the famous scientist from Longkhum. Mr. S. Ayim Longkhumer (The name literally means- Mr. S.Ayim of Longkhum village) had passed away in 2012. His wife welcomed us in. In his house is a room full of handmade items and memorabilia. There is an interesting workshop in the back of his house, but his wife had no idea what it was used for.

The main attraction of Longkhum has to be the Longlaba Stones. This natural stones that resemble a pavement runs for a few kilometres between beautiful rhododendron trees. Legend has it that these stones were made by the devil. Since it was raining heavily, the stones had become slippery and wet. I did not venture far. At the end of the stones the ‘eagle cave’ can be seen. This is the cave from the Ediben and Jina love story.

Morung at Mopumchuket

Mopumchuket: Longkhum and Mopumchuket are on opposite sides of Mokokchung. The main attraction of Mopumchuket is the Sungkotenem Park. In the park is a large deer enclosure. Wave a packet of potato crisps and the deer will come towards you. This deer has become a fan of junk food and will eat the crisps right off your hand. Wonder if he likes Coke! There are a few statues of Ediben and Jina in the park. They are the Romeo and Juliet of Nagaland. It is said that this pair hailed from Mopumchuket.

There is a small privately run museum in Mopumchuket. Since there are hardly any tourists, it is usually closed. My driver went to the house of the custodian of the museum and had it opened. It’s small but interesting. Make sure to visit the lookout tower beside the church. Watch amazing sunsets from this tower. The traditional Morung near the school is worth a visit. This bamboo Morung is open to anyone.