33 Days in Himachal Pradesh

July 29, 2022

33 Days in Himachal Pradesh

Parashar Lake

Day 1 (Dharamshala Arrival)

McLeod Ganj

On 01-Sep-2021, I boarded the 0840 flight to Delhi. Delhi- Chandigarh sector was on another flight. The passengers to Chandigarh were asked to wait and then we were put on a bus. The bus drove to an empty parking lot. The chaperone from the airline company who was with us in the bus was shouting over the phone that the aircraft is missing!😁 It was absolutely insane. After a few heated exchanges on the telephone, he instructed the bus driver to the correct aircraft. We boarded and the plane took off almost immediately. It won’t be funny if my luggage has gone to the wrong aircraft.

The airport at Chandigarh is located on the outskirts of town. It’s a modern airport. Thankfully, my luggage has arrived. There are announcements at the airport asking people to be careful about Covid, but not many are wearing masks. The cab that I had booked online picked me up from the airport. At the Himachal – Punjab border was a small health desk. But things are fairly lax. I think my car was stopped because I am on a Chandigarh registered cab. They asked me for my Covid registration. The officials are very happy to see my Himachal Tourism Covid permit. They took it and showed it another elderly couple who was standing there and explained to them what a permit is! My driver doesn’t need any pass or permit. Neither does almost all the other cars crossing the border! I can’t figure out the method to the madness. The drive to Dharamshala took about 5 hours.

Breathtaking scenery during the trek

Day 2: Dharamshala - Shukru (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

My guide met me at the hotel. We took the bus Paprola. There we are joined by a porter and a cook. The 4 of us hired a cab and drove to Bimba Nagar. It’s from here that the trek started. Today’s walk lasted only 1.5 Hrs. The night stop was at the house/shop of Mr. Raju. Click here for full details of Himachal trek

The house at Khodothru Dhar

Day 3: Shukru - Khodothru Dhar (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

Started trekking from Shukru by 0830. It’s raining heavily. The scenery is amazing. But the rain was playing spoilsport. The night halt was at Prem’s house cum shop at Khodothru Dhar. We reached there by to 1530. When I was sleeping in the store room at night, a snake came into my room and woke me up!

Snake in my room captured with camera flash!

Day 4: Shukru - Middle of nowhere (!) (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

In the morning Prem assured me that I am a fortunate man. I ask him if he considers me lucky because the snake did not bite me. “No” he said in an exasperated tone “Shiv Bhagvan Thumko Darshan Diya”. (Lord Shiva has given you his blessings). After making the offering at the local Devi temple, we started the trek at 8 AM. The trek follows the river for most of the day. The last section is the steep climb to Jalsu pass. Due to heavy fog, we are forced to stop at 3PM.

Campsite at "Middle of nowhere"

The location is very remote. There is no trace of humanity around. Collected drinking from the spot where a subterranean brook emerged to the surface! While eating dinner, a flying squirrel flew very close over my head and landed on a nearby tree.

Day 5: Middle of nowhere - Jalsu pass - Channi (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

It’s a clear day. I started walking alone by 0730 before the clouds rolled in. Jalsu pass marks the border between Kangra and Chamba districts. I get lost but a few shepherds guide me back on the path. Managed to take a few pictures before the clouds rolled in.

After a while, we start walking again. Thankfully the weather was perfect for rest of the day. Came across some shepherds’ sun drying thin strips of mutton. Sun dried mutton can last a year without refrigeration. We bought some fresh meat from them. Lunch was, surprise surprise, rice and mutton cooked together! Reached our destination, Channi, by 0430 PM. Pitched our camp near the ‘hotel’ run by Mr. Jagdeep. We are joined at night by 2 shepherds and their 4 horses.

Jalsu Pass

Day 6: Channi – Patola / Lower Tyari (Jalsu pass trek)

The shepherds left early. Started walking by 0830. We run into 2 shepherds walking uphill with about a 100 sheep! One was leading the pack and another was at the rear. It’s amazing is that they can identify each one of their sheep. They will spend a few months in the mountains before returning to the plains for winter.

Hotel at Channi

The trail long, but easy. Then the trail descends abruptly into the river below. Cross the bridge and the trail ascends very steeply. I take it as a challenge to trek to the top without stopping. I’m exhausted, but I succeed. It takes me an hour to reach the top. The trail ends near Ilaka temple. We took a share cab to Negra. The bus ride from Negra to Lower Tyari took about an hour. We cross the suspension bridge and camp beside the river. Click here for full details of Himachal trek

Day 7: Lower Tyari (Patola) – Klah village (Sukhdali pass trek)

It's apple harvest season!

Started again today by 0830. A pickup truck offered us a lift halfway to Upper Tyari. While walking up I make friends with an apple farmer who was sitting beside the road. He tells me to pluck as much apples as I want from his farm! I’m only too happy to oblige.

The village of Upper Tyari was not too far from his farm. Its apple harvest season. A mom and son were bring apples to their house. We become friends. The kid takes me to his house. Apples were piled up outside the house. He opens a room and I’m pleasantly shocked to see apples piled up in the bedroom. And this village has good cellphone reception! I make a few video calls and show them the sights and sounds of a remote Himalayan village in apple harvest season.

Temple at Klah Village

The trail beyond Upper Tyari is very steep. The trail was pristine and beautiful. Reached Klah by 1430. We sent up camp in the temple premises. It’s a picturesque village. The people are very friendly. In the evening the village elders congregate near the temple. They tell me that 3 dips have to be taken in Mani Mahesh lake to obtain full blessings from Shiva. It’s supposed to relieve not only sins from this life, but also the previous 7 lives.

Day 8: Klah village – Jheel Khad (Sukhdali pass trek)

The shepherd at his cottage

It’s raining heavily. We start by 0830 when the rain reduces. Occasionally, the fog and rain would clear to up to show us scenery that’s straight out of a fairytale. We pass by a cave which has a shrine dedicated to Baba Bholakhnath. It’s small a vertical cave. To reach the sanctum, one has to climb 2 sets of steep steel ladders. There are a few figurines dressed in yellow dress in the sanctum.

We pass by a small shepherd’s cottage. The mud walls of this house are only about 1.5 Mts tall. This offers only partial protection from the wind and elements. The floor was covered with fresh grass. There was a fire at the center of the house. The shepherd was happily sitting on the floor beside the fire. We used this fire in center of the house to make our lunch - Maggi. We offer him some food but he refuses. He’s happy to eat the small potatoes he has roasted in the open fire. The sun comes out and I rush out to take a few pictures. It’s the kind scenery that’s worth dying for! We thank him for his hospitality and move on.

Our camp at Jheel Khed

Reached Jheel Khed by 3 PM. This place is well above the tree line. We pitched our tents and lit a fire. This was a popular halt for Mani Mahesh pilgrims in the pre-Covid days. Today, we are the only people here. There is a small stream nearby. I wash my hands and face with the ice cold water. In a strange way it makes me happy. I sit on a rock beside the stream. It’s just me, the wind, the cold crisp air and the gentle sound of flowing water. It’s magical. I’ve come at the right time. Moments like this will be hard to come once normality resumes after the pandemic. Click here for full details of Himachal trek

Day 9: Jheel Khed – Sukhdali pass – Mani Mahesh - Sundarasi (Sukhdali pass trek)

Sukhdali Pass (4620 M) was the highest point of the trek.

Started walking by 8:45 when the intensity of rain reduced. There are numerous waterfalls all around. The scenery is amazing. After about 4 hours of difficult trek, we reached a flat area called Sukhdali. Kuja peak and Kuja glacier appears very close by. The tail beyond this is very steep and dangerous. At some places, there is just enough space to put one foot. The thin mountain air is not making it any easier. You are missing something in life if you haven’t trekked across a high altitude Himalayan pass.

The holy Mani Mahesh lake

At an altitude of 4620 M altitude, Sukhdali pass is the highest point in our trek. An Indian flag and a few Buddhist prayer flags are fluttering in the wind. There is a small temple. Our cook made the customary offering at the temple. On a clear day the sacred Kailash peak (altitude: 5600 M) is visible from Sukhdali pass. (FYI, this is not same Kailash peak visible during the Kailash Mansarovar trip) However, nothing is visible now due to the thick fog. Suddenly, a severe hailstorm begins. We quickly collected out backpacks and started running down.

Kailash peak and Mani Mahesh lake

It’s a steep descend to Mani Mahesh lake (altitude: 4080 M). ‘Mani Mahesh’ means ‘the jewel in Shiva’s crown’. Full of zeal, I head straight to the bathing ghats to wash off my sins this life and the previous 7 lives. The water in lake is deep enough only to wade in. Beside the steps leading to the lake is a steel bucket. The trick is to use the steel bucket and pour water over oneself. I pour 4 buckets of freezing cold water over my whole body. One can never be too sure! I feel light. The burden of 7 generations has been lifted from my shoulders.

Today was some of the best scenery of the entire trek

Ordered a cup of tea in one of the many shops around the lake. Suddenly, the clouds opened up. The peak of the mountain was visible; not all of it. Yet, it was truly spectacular. No picture will ever be able to replicate the grandeur of this scene. The legend is that Lord Shiva gives Darshan to only whom he chooses. I can’t ask for more.

We arrive Sundarasi by 5:15. We find a good spot beside the trail and pitch our tents. Today’s trek has been the longest, the highest, the most difficult and the most dangerous so far. It was a wonderful day.

Day 10: Sundarasi – Hadsal (Sukhdali pass trek)

The campsite at Hadsal

We started walking only by 0945. Spotted a few who were doing the pilgrimage barefoot! The path to the holy lake trail is mostly made of gravel and rocks. And then there is the glacier that has to be crossed. Faith can move mountains!

It was raining intermittently all day. When the rain stopped, we light a fire to make our lunch. It began pouring down again when we were cooking. I ate lunch standing in the cold rain with an umbrella in one hand and a plate in the other. A warm plate of Maggi never felt more comforting!

The bus stop at Hadsal

We reached Hadsal by 1430. Due to Covid, the police are only permitting people with a valid permit to do the Mani Mahesh pilgrimage. I didn’t have a permit. I got lucky that there was no police check post at Sukhdali pass! Beyond Hadsal is a flat area beside the river. We camp there for the night. I spend the evening beside the river.

Day 11: Hadsal – Khadamukh - Choli - Lamu (Indrar pass trek)

The gorgeous wooden house that i lived in.

We left in good time to take the 0800 bus to Khadamukh. It’s raining so heavily that I can’t put my backpacks down. The only consolation is that this is one of the most beautiful bus stops I’ve been to! The bus arrived 45 min late. We get off at Khadamukh and wait for the next bus. Choli is a short bus ride away from Khadamukh. We waited in the bus shelter at Choli for rains to subside. It’s a waste of time. We walk to Choli in the heavy rain. Click here for full details of Himachal trek

My room in the wooden house

Lamu is 3 KM from Choli. There is a proper road and it makes for an easy walk. The destination for today is the ancestral house of my guide. This wonderful 3 storied wooden house is almost a 100 years old. My guide’s younger brother and his family still resides here. The top floor has 2 rooms and a kitchen. My guide’s brother and his family live on the top floor. I was given the corner room on the middle floor. Others got the middle room that also doubled as a store. The lower level is for animals.

It has been raining heavily for the past 3 days. Indrar pass trail would have become very muddy, slippery and dangerous. Tomorrow’s trek appears unlikely.

Day 12: Lamu (Indrar pass trek)

Now this is a room with a view!

The rains are as strong as ever. My hope is slowly fading away. Confined to my room, I savor the excellent views. It’s my first time living in a wooden house. My wooden room is painted bright green and blue. The corridor of the traditional house is plastered with mud. The middle room always stays warm because of insulation provided by the wood and mud construction. It’s highly unlikely that many of us would see, let alone experience a house like this. These traditional houses are among the last standing. Making a house with such high quality lumber is very expensive. It’s all brick and mortar now.

Kuarsi Bridge

By noon, the rains begin to subside. Impatient, I ask my guide if we can start the trek. He explained that along the trail are a few streams that have to be waded across. Crossing the swollen stream would be dangerous. In the evening, we get news that one of the residents from the village tried to cross such a stream. He was lucky to make it back alive but all his belongings were washed away. I’m disappointed that this leg of the trek has to be abandoned, but ultimately it was the right decision.

Day 13: Lamu – Kuarsi bridge- Lamu (Indrar pass trek)

By 10, the rains have stopped. We decided to walk until the bridge leading to Kuarsi village. In earlier times, the path to Kuarsi village was through the rugged mountain tops. This new road has shortened the walking time by at least 5 hours! After an hours easy walk, we reach the bridge. This high pedestrian bridge provides amazing views. Beyond the bridge is the narrow walking trail leading to Kuarsi. The old wooden bridge which was once the lifeline to Kuarsi village is visible below.

The motley crew at the end of the trek!

And on this beautiful bridge, my trek ended. We walk back to Lamu village. It’s disappointing that I’m unable complete Indrar pass trek. My last 2 treks (Roopkund trek and Saramati trek) also could not be completed due to bad weather.

My guide’s brother gave me few bags of apples and walnuts to carry along. He assured me that both were from his own farm. It’s too much and I’m forced to leave a lot of apples behind. When I got home 3 weeks later, I was still nibbling away on those amazing walnuts he gave me.

Day 14: Lamu – Dharamshala

By guide’s friend dropped us at Choli bus stop. At 0550, the bus to Dharamshala arrived. After about an hour’s ride, the road was blocked by a landslide. A backhoe from the local power company arrived on scene. They managed to clear some debris. But the big rock on the middle of the road would not budge. They threw in the towel and went back to their construction site. Once the loose debris was cleared, there was just enough gap for a car to pass through without falling into the abyss. A couple of daredevil drivers crossed this section and drove off.

Trekking to Triund

I walked to the construction site. A tunnel was being built beside the road for a hydro power project. Beside the tunnel entrance was a small shop cobbled up from tin and aluminum sheets. The only food available in the shop was bread and omelet. And that was my breakfast. By 11, a team from the government road maintenance division arrived. They dynamited the rock and cleared the debris. We are moving again. After an hour, our bus conductor got a call that that another bus was in trouble. We stopped for another 30 min for this bus to catch up with us. The people from that bus also joined us.

Tents for hire at Snowline cafe

This bus does not go to Dharamshala. By 9 PM, I get off at a major intersection and wait for the next bus to Dharamshala. My guide and team continued on in the same bus. I am the only person on the road. Then a car stopped beside me. There was a middle aged couple in the front seat. They offered me a seat to Dharamshala. I throw caution to the wind and join them. They dropped me off at ISBT Dharamshala. I’m back where I started from. The trek is over. Click here for full details of Himachal trek

Walking to Waterfall cafe

Day 15: Dharamshala

In the morning I went to the Tibetan Centre. The ‘Tibetan parliament in Exile’ and ‘Tibetan museum’ are in the same compound. At the ground floor of ‘Tibetan museum’ is a small book shop that specialises in Tibetan books. The museum is on the first floor. Beside the stairs leading to the museum are very interesting archival pictures from a time when Tibet was an independent nation. The museum is small, but interesting. I’m the only person here. The curator was kind enough to guide me through each one of the exhibits.

The Tibetan Medicine and Astro center is a short walk away from the museum. After treating myself to a Tibetan lunch, I head to the Tibetan doctor. I had heard about the Blue Buddha and the unique 3 finger pulse/life energy diagnosis of Tibetan medicine. I wanted to see this. I fake an illness to get a doctor’s appointment. There are no patients and I get to see the doctor immediately. A traditional Tibetan doctor will ask about the patient’s life history etc.; not just the immediate illness. It takes a bit of time. He checked my pulse/life force with the 3 fingers and prescribed some medication. All these traditional medicines are available in the hospital dispensary.

Janjheli

The Astro Centre and medical museum are adjacent to the medical center. When I walked in the Astro centre, I was asked for my Covid results. After checking the COVID results and tourism registration permit, he apologised for requesting the documents. He showed me the way to the Astro Centre on the 1st floor. Getting a personalised Astro chart takes about an hour. It’s not cheap. The cost depends on the quantum of astrological information requested.

My next destination was the Medical museum. Yet again, I’m the only person here. The ground floor exhibits include medical tools, herbs and other ingredients used for medical preparation, medical books and the final medicines. There are many photographs on the wall. The first floor is exclusively for medical Thanka paintings. Unfortunately photography is not allowed here. The curator and I become friends. She explained in great detail about all the exhibits in the museum. Then she pointed to a photograph on the wall. In the photo was the former chief of the Tibetan Medical institute. He had spent 17 years in Chinese jail before escaping to India. The ancient Tibetans had devised a method of de-toxifying mercury and using it as a medicine. This knowledge was lost with the Chinese invasion. The former head of Tibetan Medical institute knew this technique. When he escaped to India, he revived this ancient knowledge. This mercury based medicine is now being produced in Dharamshala.

Kulu Behkali temple

In times gone by, studying medicine in Lhasa was perhaps the equivalent of being at MIT! People from the Himalayan countries (India, Pakistan, Sikkim, Nepal, Bhutan) would aspire to study medicine in Lhasa. On the wall of the museum is a degree from a student who was a native of Himachal Pradesh. He was in Tibet studying medicine before Chinese invasion. The certificate has many signatures. One of the signature reads “Counsel General of India in Lhasa; Mr. P.N.Menon!”

Streets of Kasol

Medicine and astrology go hand in hand in the Tibetan system. Hence they also sell talismans in the Medical museum. The talismans on sale are already consecrated and ready to go! I end up buying quite a few for my friends.

At the hotel in the evening, I met a young traveler from Tamil Nadu. We start talking. He graduated from REC. Then he worked for a while in a media company that specialises in election related media management. After a while, he got tired of the job. He quit his job and started travelling. This is his first real travel and he was enjoying every bit of it. Tomorrow morning he departs for Kashmir. That’s the last destination before he returns home. He was under intense family and social pressure to quit travelling. Everyone expected him to become “mature” and “responsible” especially after many of his friends cracked the notoriously difficult Indian Civil Services exams. Wishing him many more wonderful travels.

Day 16: Dharamshala: Day hike to Triund and snowline café

Triund

I set off from my 0715. After having breakfast at Gallu temple, I began walking by 8. A was at Truind by 11 and Snowline café by 1215. After having my packed lunch there, I began walking down. I was back at Gallu temple by 3:45. This is an easy/moderate trek that can be attempted by anyone. This trek can become quite congested during peak season. Click here for the full details of Triund and Snowline café trek

After the trek I met my guide at his office in Mclloyd Ganj. Had tea with him. Took the share jeep to my hotel at Dharamshala.

Day 17: Dharamshala – Chandigarh – Mclloyd Ganj

Went to Chandigarh to pick up the 6 year old from the airport. Moved to a hotel in Mclloyd Ganj.

Day 18: Mclloyd Ganj

Slack day. It has been raining most of the day. Went around Mclloyd Ganj.

Hiking to Waterfall Café

Day 19: Mclloyd Ganj

It’s a rainy day. Today’s plan was to move into the homestay run by my trekking guide. It’s short distance away from Mclloyd Ganj. He had warned me that due the heavy rains, a part of the road had been washed away. So the car would stop a few KM from the homestay. And we had to cross this dangerous section and walk the homestay

Checked out of the hotel by 1100 and took a cab to the end of the road. My guide was not kidding when he said that the road was dangerous. There was hardly enough place to put one foot! And to make matters worse it’s raining and slippery. I decide not to gamble and went back into the hotel. My guide suggested that I do the Waterfall café trek.

I took a car to Gallu temple. Waterfall café trek and Triund trek start from Gallu temple. This an easy trek. The trek leads to a beautiful secluded waterfall. The trek to waterfall Café and back with the 6 year old took 3.5 Hrs. Managed to get back just in time before the rains started. Click here for the full details Waterfall café trek

Parashar Lake

Day 20: Mclloyd Ganj – Parashar Lake

Leaving Mclloyd Ganj today. My cab turned up on time. The fare was Rs.2200/- per day on the condition that I use the car for at least a week. However, at this point I was not aware that there was a cap on the daily distance and that the fare quoted was from Dharamshala back to Dharamshala. Finally when I left the car at Bhunter, it cost me about Rs 3000/ per day.

Parashar Lake

The initial plan was to go to Chindi, but decided to visit Parashar Lake first. IIT Mandi is on this route. When we reached Parashar Lake it was quite foggy. There is nobody around. My driver cannot figure out the entrance to this lake. Finally we found a few parked cars and located the temple entrance. To reach the temple one has to climb a bit from the road. The temple then appears in view. The whole place is straight out of a fairy tale!

The legend is that the sage Parashar meditated beside this lake. There are only a few tourists/ devotees here. The temple Pujari dressed in a blazer handed out the offerings. The idol of the deity, Parashar Muni, can be glimpsed in the temple sanctum. There is a walkway around the temple. Make sure to climb the adjacent hillock. The grandeur of Parashar Lake is visible only from this vantage point.

State run tourist lodge at Chindi

The temple complex and its premises are fenced off. The grazing animals like cows and sheep cannot get into this area. Hence, there was an abundance of wild flowers inside the temple premises. Outside the temple fence, not a single flower exists. It only grass and a thorny shrub that the cows do not eat.

After spending about 1.5 Hrs at Parashar Lake, we drove back. Spotted a newly built 2 storied hotel beside the road. I decided to stop here for the night. It’s a wonderful and quiet spot. The rooms are clean, modern and spacious. We are the only guests in the hotel. The manager of this establishment was a gentleman in his mid-50’s. This is his home village and the hotel is owned by his siblings. He was working in Bangalore when the Covid lockdown happened. Suddenly, he found himself without a job and no income. He was forced to return to his home village “I will never leave my home village again”, he told me. It rained heavily for most of the night.

Approaching Chindi

Day 21: Parashar Lake - Chindi

Started the trip by 0630. The hope was that the 6 year old would sleep for most of the journey. It was only partially successful. We reached Chindi by noon. The only accommodation in Chindi is the Guest house run by Himachal Tourism. The room are large and spacious, but a bit dated. This is the only accommodation around here.

Chindi is famous for its natural beauty. Far from the madding crowd, it’s an ideal place to contemplate and relax. Went to Chindi Mata temple in the afternoon. It’s a short walk from the hotel. Click here for more details of my trip to Chindi and Karsog.

Day 22: Chindi – Karsog – Janjheli (Khataroo)

Mamaleshwar temple

Started from Chindi at 10 AM. Karsog is about 30 Min drive away. The road winds down from Chindi to the beautiful Karsog valley. The most important attraction of Karsog is the ancient Mamaleshwar temple. Temple renovation was in progress when I got here. The 5 Shiva Lingams outside the temple are supposed to have been installed by Pandavas (think Mahabharatam). Do not miss the big drum hanging inside the temple. Legend has it that this drum was used by Bhiman when he was here!

Kamaksha temple at Kao village

4 Km away from Karsog is the small village of Kao. I’m here to visit the ancient Kamaksha temple. This temple houses the same deity as Kamakhya temple in Assam. There temple has 3 doors/ chambers. The left room is called Parashuram Gufa. I’m not sure what’s in there! The middle chamber is the sleeping quarters of the deity Kamakhya Devi. There is even a small bed inside. Only the priest is allowed to enter this room. On the right is the chamber with the idol, Kamaksha Devi. This is the only section that’s normally open during daytime.

The inhabitants of Kao village do not use beds as a mark of respect for this temple deity. Instead they sleep on mattresses directly placed on the floor. The village is supposed to be 100% vegetarian. I learned this the hard way when I ordered chicken and chapatti for lunch at the local hotel. Click here for more details of my trip to Chindi and Karsog.

View from my room at Janjheli

After lunch at Karsog, I decided to travel to Janjheli. The road was in a terrible state of disrepair. One section of the road was so bad that I asked my driver if he will be able to make it across. This was also the most remote road the entire trip. It is not even marked on Google maps. We had to stop the occasional car coming in the opposite side to ask for directions and check if the road was open. The heavy rain and fog is not helping a bit. At one section, there was a landslide and the road was blocked. Earthmoving equipment was clearing the road. I am uncertain if I can reach our destination. Finally, I made it to Janjheli. This drive from Karsog to Janjheli was the most insane, remote and beautiful stretch of road I would encounter on my entire trip.

It's apple season at Janjheli

Karsog is a small place that is at the intersection of 2 roads. I try looking for a place to stay, but nothing decent is available. One of the taxi drivers in the local taxi station suggested a place to stay. He asked us to follow him in our car as it was a bit far off. He pointed to the “Paradise Homestay” in the village called Khataroo. It’s a hotel and not a homestay in the classical sense. At Rs 800/- a night, this is the best place in town. The rooms are new and hot water is available. This is also supposed to be the best eatery in town. The guest house is run by Himachal Tourism is a short walk from my guest house, but it was closed due to Covid. At night there was no electricity. Ate dinner with the light of candles and my flashlight.

View from Shikari Mata Temple

Janjheli was arguably the most beautiful destination of this entire trip. It’s remote and pristine. The clouds and rain have added to the charm of this place. It should be on every traveler’s destination list.

Day 23: Janjheli (Khataroo)

The rains are as strong as ever. I decided to stay in gorgeous Janjheli and do nothing. The small village makes for a pleasant walk. Its apple harvest season. Apples are hanging from the trees. There are numerous apple sorting centers besides the road. We went into one of these shops to have a closer look. The shop owner is curious and we start talking. He happily handed over a few apples to the 6 year old. Click here for full details of Janjheli.

Day 24: Janjheli (Khataroo) – Shikari Mata temple – Pandav Shila - Pandoh

After breakfast, set out for the revered Shikari Mata temple. Thankfully, it’s a clear day today. The road to this temple was under maintenance. It’s a bumpy ride. However, the scenery along the road is exquisite. The road ends near the base of the hillock where Shikari Mata temple is situated. From here, it’s about 600 steps to reach temple. The concrete steps were being laid at many sections. The steps pass through wooded areas and end in a beautiful grassy meadow. Perched on top of the hillock is the temple.

Shikari Mata Temple

Shikari Mata temple is connected with the Pandavas of Mahabharatam. There is a board that explains the mythology of this temple. (See picture of this board above). The temple is modern, yet it’s quite unique. The temple does not have a roof. There are no priests and anyone is welcome to walk in the sanctum. It’s very quiet as there are only 3 to 4 other devotees here. The scenery from the temple is amazing. I spend some time here before walking back down.

Pandav Shila

Came back to Paradise Homestay at Khataroo. After lunch, we departed for Pandoh. Enroute is the curious attraction called Pandav Shila. It’s a stone that wobbles when pushed. The stone has some connection with the legend the Pandavas but I don’t know the full story. Beside it is a small kid’s park.

Pandoh is an uninspiring place. Stopped here for the night in a hotel located besides the main highway.

Day 25: Pandoh - Jibhi

At Jibhi homestay

After breakfast, set out to Jibhi. Massive engineering work was in progress beside the existing road. Soon a large sections of the picturesque road that follows the river below will be replaced with tunnels. It will make for a faster, easier and boring drive.

There are literally hundreds of homestays in Jibhi. During weekends, this place is overflowing of tourists. I was staying at ‘Lambari Hills’ homestay. This is a quiet homestay that has wonderful views. The large carpeted verandah is an ideal place to relax and have a cup of warm coffee.

Serlosar Lake and Budhi Nagin temple

Day 26: Jibhi – Serlosar Lake (Seruvalsar Lake) Bhuntar

Started driving to the starting point of Serlosar Lake (Seruvalsar Lake) trek by 9:15. It’s about 10 KM from our homestay. The holy Serlosar Lake is dedicated to the deity ‘Budhi Nagin’. She is the goddess of snakes and ghee. Budhi Nagin is also the mother of all snake deities. Beside the lake is a small temple dedicated to Budhi Nagin. It’s mandatory to wash the feet before entering the temple. I went to a small pond beside the temple and washed my feet. Leather objects like purses and belts are not permitted inside the temple.

The traveler I met at Serlosar Lake

The trail that goes beyond this temple leads to Lambari valley. It’s best to camp there overnight than to attempt it as a day hike. A short walk beyond the Budhi Nagin temple is a beautiful vantage point. From here, Lambari valley comes into view.

Trail to Serlosar

There is a path around the Serlosar Lake. The kid and I went for a walk around the lake. It was nice and quiet. I run into a traveler from Tamil Nadu. He had been travelling alone for the last 3-4 months. He had spent a few months in Ladakh before arriving at Himachal. While travelling, he would sleep with shepherds in their cottages. He neither had an itinerary nor a time frame for returning back to Tamil Nadu. A true wanderer indeed! One needs good karma to get a life like his. I better start doing something about it ASAP. Click here for more details of my trip to Jibhi.

The round trip to Serlosar lake took about 3.5 Hrs. I did end up carrying the 6 year old for quite a while. After this we drove to Bhunter. The homestay of the Malhotra’s was our destination. As the road is narrow, the taxi cannot reach the homestay. I paid off the taxi that I had hired from Dharamshala. It would not have been possible to visit all those wonderful places by relying on public transport. Mr. Mahlotra took us to the homestay in his car.

View from homestay at Jibhi

Set back from the city, this charming homestay is perched on the mountainside. Malhotra told me that when he purchased this property, building materials were bought to the site on the back of mules. The cemented road to his residence will be completed soon. The homestay has 2 rooms with a common kitchen in the middle. There is a small garden with tables and a sun parasol outside. However, the ‘Piece de resistance‘ of the homestay has to be the gorgeous dog called Coco.

Study from home at Bhuntar

Day 27: Bhuntar

It’s a bright sunny day. Washed all the clothes in the washing machine at the homestay. My left heel is paining from carrying 6 year old yesterday. In the afternoon, she started vomiting. Mahlotra drove me to the pharmacy in Bhuntar.

Day 28: Bhuntar

Went for a walk to Bhunter and back. On the road, I spotted a bright orange fruit that has the shape of a moderate size mango. The lady of the house told me that it’s called as ‘Japani.’ The fruit has to be plucked and aged for a few days before it can be consumed.

Day 29: Bhuntar – Kullu - Bhuntar

Bijleshwar temple

Mr. Malhotra dropped us at Kullu. Went to the Taxi union and hired a cab for the day trip. The destinations for the trip are mentioned on the wall of the taxi union office. The cost was Rs 1700. The first stop was Bhekhali temple. It’s located on a small hillock beyond Kullu. The road ends near the entrance of this small wooden temple. There is a short walking trail to a holy cave/ crevasse nearby. I’m not sure of it religious significance. The rock appears as if it has been cut vertically with a knife. The cave is quite narrow. But It’s not deep. The cave/crevasse is so narrow that one has to walk sideways

Statue at Bhekhali temple

The next stop was the modern multi-storied Vaishno Mata temple. It’s a prime example of commercialisation gone crazy in religious establishments. This temple has numerous idols at various levels. Conveniently beside it are offerings that have be given to appease the deity. A small basket of flowers costs Rs 150. At another location, a small bottle of oil to pour over the deity costs Rs 150. It’s disgusting to watch the priests truing to flog these offerings without any shred of decency. Free lunch is offered at the temple, but it’s only for those who have made offerings (read financial contribution). I would not advice anyone to visit this temple. However, at this temple, I run into a lovely couple from Kerala who were on their first serious journey. They joined us for the rest of the day.

Sanctum of Bijleshwar temple

Raghunathji Mahadev Temple: It’s right in the heart of Kullu. Beside it is a school. Unfortunately, it was closed when we got there.

Bijleshwar Mahadev temple: The ancient ASI listed heritage building is near Bhunter. This is the most beautiful temple of them all.

Nature park: This is a kids park at Bhunter.

We took a rickshaw back home and out new found friends went back in the cab to Kullu.

Day 30: Bhuntar – Kasol

Kasol

Checked out from the homestay and went to Bhunter bus station. However, I left some luggage back at the homestay. The plan was to return back to Bhunter and take the bus to Chandigarh. A short distance beyond Bhunter bus terminal is a bridge that crosses the beas river. When we got there, the bridge was closed for emergency repairs. I took out all the luggage and crossed the bridge by foot. Then we waited for another bus on the opposite side of the bridge. After a short wait, I boarded a bus to Kasol.

The ride is very picturesque. Through a friend, I had booked a room at Mr. Aravind'ji homestay. This homestay is in the heart of Kasol, but a bit set back from the noise and crowds.

Day 31: Kasol - Bhuntar – Kasol

Manikaran Gurudwara

6 year old threw up at night. She was fine today morning, but I decided to stay here for a while. The previous day I had found that buses are available to Chandigarh from Kasol. So today I went to Bhunter and collected my bag from Malhotra’s residence.

There is a small kid’s park in Kasol. Went there in the evening.

Day 32: Kasol - Manikaran – Kasol

After breakfast, I left for Manikaran by the local bus. Manikaran is famous for its hot water springs. The bus stops on the opposite side of the revered Gurudwara. A small pedestrian bridge across the river leads right to the Gurudwara. Inside, is a large prayer room. There is a room with stones heated by geothermal heat. Keeping your body pressed to these hot rocks is supposed to sure some ailments. In the gurudwara are concrete tanks into which the hot geothermal water is channeled. Bathing here is supposed to remove all sins. There are separate tanks for men and women. Not wanting to take any risks, I immediately took a de-sinning dip. The water was very hot, but the smell of Sulphur is quite low. An ice cold dip at Mani Mahesh followed by steaming hot bath at Manikaran is guaranteed to remove the toughest sins. There is first class ticket to heaven with my name on it! May the good Lord have mercy on you sinners 😄

Manikaran Temple

There is a big board at the entrance of the men’s bathing tank that says “holy pond” and “only men allowed”. When I was taking a holy dip, 2 young women walked in. One of them was trying to put her feet in the holy water without even removing her sandals. Blasphemous. I think she was trying to feel the temperature of the water. I had to shout out to her not to do so!

Beside the gurudwara is the temple. Here too are a few geo-thermal springs. The water is so hot that rice for the gurudwara langar was being cooked in it.

I crossed the bridge and sat on the opposite bank for a while. The woman who had tried to put her feet in the holy water came and sat beside me. There were a bunch of friends along with her. And I noticed they were talking in Malayalam. We start talking. They were a bunch of MBA students from Kerala on a college trip. For most of them, it was their first trip to north India. They were on a tight schedule and left in a hurry.

Cooking rice in geothermal water
at Manikaran

I am back in Kasol in time for a late lunch. In the evening, my friend who directed me to Aravind’ji’s homestay arrived at Kasol. In the evening, we went out for a walk on the opposite side of Kasol river. The kid vomited again at night and I decided to return back earlier than planned. Click here for full details of Kasol and Manikaran.

Day 33: Kasol - Chandigarh

Kheerganga trek was on today’s itinerary. But due to the change of return plans, I decided to stay put. Boarded the 2030 bus to Chandigarh.

Day 34: Chandigarh

Reached Chandigarh by 0730. Checked into the ‘Pearl Hotel'. Since I had not completed 2 vaccine doses, I require an RTPCR report for tomorrow’s flight. I made a few phone calls and the labs said that 48 hrs are required for a test report. The samples collected will send to Delhi and hence the delay in obtaining results. Since I had no other option, I went to a nearby private lab. The lab called their testing person and he arrived on his bike in about 20 Min. He took me outside the lab premises as Covid testing cannot be done indoors! Then he offered me a deal. Covid results in 12-18 Hrs without a test. It was too good an offer to refuse.

By evening I have severe diarrhea. I’m confined to my room. The kid is fit and fine and has gone out. I think that my system is not suited to life on the cities!

Day 35: Chandigarh - Home

I’m home by noon. 6 year old is out playing with her friends. It would be a week before I recovered fully from diarrhea.

Footnote: I started travelling back in 2003. The destination on my very first trip was to Punjab and Himachal. And on that trip, I was bitten by the travel bug. This is my second trip to Himachal. Yet there is much more to explore and experience. Paraphrasing Arnold, ‘I will be back.’