Trekking in Himachal Pradesh

July 22, 2022

Trekking in Himachal Pradesh - 13 Days

I reached Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh on 01-September-2021. September is the tail end of monsoon season and this year’s monsoons have lasted longer than most. There are reports of landslides from many places in Himachal Pradesh. Trekking is definitely not advisable in September, particularly this year. However, I have decided to take the plunge because it’s my only window of opportunity before the harsh Himalayan winter sets in. Due to the ongoing Covid pandemic and the rains, I’m hoping to have the mountains and the entire trekking route to myself. It’s raining very heavily at Dharamshala. I wonder if I should break a coconut to appease the rain Gods.

My backpack and poncho

14 days is longer than most treks. After a few phone calls, my guide customised a trek for me. We have settled at a price of Rs 3000 a day, all-inclusive. The trek was divided into 3 sections

• Jalsu pass trek (Surai pass trek???)

• Sukhdali pass trek

• Indrar pass trek

Day 1: Dharamshala - Shukru (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

My guide met me at my hotel on 02-Sep-21. The clouds are ominous, but my mind is made up. We picked our gear and walked to the Dharamshala bus station. Our destination was Paprola bus station. There, we are joined by a cook and a porter. From Paprola, the 4 of us took a cab to Bimba Nagar. Buses are available to Bimba Naga, but they ply infrequently.

Inside Raju's house/ Shop

Had a cup of tea and some snacks at the small wooden shop at Bimba Nagar. We started trekking by 2:15 PM. The trail follows the tarmac road until the hydel power plant. Beside is a flight of steps. Ascend these steps and the wilderness begins. I am warned to watch out for leech bites.

Temple before Sukuru

Slowly the signs of humanity vanished from sight. Electricity will not be available until the end of the trek. We will be using firewood for cooking. We are carrying a small quantity of kerosene for emergency use. The trek was very beautiful, but demanding. After 1.5 Hrs, we reached Shukuru. The “village” of Shukuru has about a dozen houses and a large man made tank. This serves as the holding tank for the hydel power plant we saw at the base of the mountain. We make our way to the house of Mr. Raju. It’s a house and shop all rolled into one.

Sheep watching our cook making breakfast!

Raju and my guide are old friends. Since his wife was away, Raju permitted us sleep in his shop/house. There was a raised bed on which Mr. Raju slept. I sleep in my sleeping bag beside the LPG cooking cylinder. Our cook and porter pitched a tent and slept outside. Raju, like many living in the mountains, keeps large flocks of sheep. It’s a valuable source of income for him. By evening, it started to rain heavily. I’m getting worried about the next day.

Day 2: Shukru - Khodothru Dhar (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

It rained heavily the whole night. From today, the trek takes on a special charm. Natures call has to be answered while enjoying 360 degree unimpeded view of the majestic Himalayan mountains. At daybreak, I find a tranquil secluded spot that’s fit for meditation. Doing one’s business while holding a toilet paper in one hand and an umbrella in another in squatting position is a bit difficult. However, rainwater cascading down the rocks did make things a bit easier at the end. When I get back to the room, I notice a big juicy leech on my leg. I immediately strip and do a quick rummage. Thankfully, the crown jewels are safe and secure.

Leech bite

Due to the heavy overnight rains, the holding tank at Sukuru had become full and the overflow weir had to be opened. We wait for the rains to subside. The trek started by 0830 Hrs. Thankfully, after a while, the rains stopped. The locales on the trail are stunning. By mid-noon, we stop at a curious house that’s built under the overhang of a big rock. The old couple living in this house make tea on request. Sitting on the big rock outside this house and having a warm cup of tea is nothing short of bliss.

House made under a big rock

It was not long before the heavens opened up again. We reached our destination, Khodothru Dhar, by 1530 Hrs. We have reached the house/shop of Prem Chand Thakur. Khodothru Dhar boasts of a massive population of about 10 people. The word ‘Akrtoh’ means walnuts. Khodothru Dhar gets its name from the plentiful walnuts that grow here. However, I see only a few walnut trees growing behind Prem’s house/shop. His clientele are the shepherds that live in the mountains during summer. Tourists are extremely rare here even in the best of times and non-existent in the past 2 years due to COVID restrictions.

Prem's house at Khodothru Dhar

Prem welcomed us in. The house is made of mud plastered on wood. An aluminum sheet forms the roof. The house has a main room and a small store room. There is an open fire in the corner of the main room. This used for cooking, lighting and warming up the room. In addition to this property, Prem also owns another small house up in the mountain that has been rented out to a few shepherds. He made us nice cup of tea. I sat in the verandah sipping tea mesmerised by the amazing views. With the increase in the altitude, the mountain vegetation has undergone a sea change. (no pun intended) Thankfully, leeches cannot live in these high altitudes. The thought that I can go about my morning business tomorrow without worrying about leeches is positively reassuring.

Prem making tea for us

After sundown, I was sitting in the verandah immersed in the silence. Prem’s tenant came over in a totally inebriated state. We had a wonderful conversation; the type that’s not possible when sober. And then I realised that the main product for sale in all these small mountain shops is not tea but home brewed liquor. This potent colourless concoction is generally made by distilling locally grown apples. I try out this local brew. It's pretty good stuff! It even has the aroma of apples. However, as a rule, I avoid alcohol during treks, especially high altitude treks. Prem send his intoxicated tenant away and reminding him to lock the sheep in the pen. He explained that the sheep wandering at night are easy prey mountain leopards. But they don’t bother humans, he assures me.

Trail on day 2

Prem and my trekking team are drinking the night away in the main room. I am to sleep alone in the store room. The store room is a riot with things strewn all over the place. And I can make an educated guess as to what’s brewing in the big plastic drums! I place my sleeping bag on the floor. I’m not afraid of leopards, but I lock the door.Sometime at night, I woke up to answer natures call. I opened the door and was greeted by absolute darkness. A zillion stars were sprinkled across the sky. The stillness of the night is indescribable; it has to be experienced. Probably, this is the all-encompassing silence that one hears on attaining Nirvana.

Night visitor caught in my camera's flash.

I return to my room in a transcendental state of consciousness. Unable to sleep, I toss and turn around. In the stillness of the night I hear a hissing sound. I dismiss the sound as creation of my subconscious mind. But I hear the sound again. During treks, I always keep my flashlight close at hand. I shine the light around the room. Half a meter from the foot of my sleeping bag is a snake looking at me. I jump out of my sleeping bag. We exchange glances and it stops hissing. He keeps a respectful distance. I get the feeling that the snake deliberately woke me up with its hissing. It was telling me to move out because I was sleeping in his spot!

Then, I did what any reasonable person would do. I grabbed my camera and took a few pictures of the snake. After putting my camera away, I opened the door and jumped out. My friends hear me calling out to them and they come out from their room. With a long stick, they threw the snake out. We notice a small hole under the door. The snake had crawled in through this hole looking for warmth. I go back to the same room and sleep peacefully.

Day 3: Khodothru Dhar- Middle of nowhere (!) (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

Devi temple at Khodothru Dhar

The morning the conversation is all about the snake. Prem is happy to see the picture of the snake on the camera’s LCD display. He assures me that I am a fortunate man. I ask him if he considers me lucky because the snake did not bite me. “No” he says in an exasperated tone “Shiv Bhagvan Thumko Darshan Diya”. (Lord Shiva has given you his blessings). I’m hoping not to have any more Shiva Darshans (blessings) when I head into the wilderness to answer natures call.

A bridge

Because I’m, apparently, the blessed sort of guy, Prem suggests that I should visit Mani Mahesh. His face lights up when I tell him that it’s on our itinerary. Opposite his house, is a small structure dedicated to Goddess Devi. As I would soon come to realise, Devi and Shiva are the most popular deities in the mountains. It’s common to greet each other saying “Bam Bhole” (Bhole is another name for Lord Shiva). The small Devi temples in these mountains normally contain a photo of the Devi and a few offerings. Red flags are always placed outside these structures. The Devi temple at Khodothru Dhar was no different.

Farmer carrying the calf down. Notice
the mom cow in the background

Today is a good day with clear skies. We start the trek at 8 AM. The trail initially follows the river. We stopped at a shepherd’s house beside the river. The location is picture perfect. We continue to plod along. I notice a large gathering of vultures. I try to take pictures, but I’m not good at it. Along the trail, there are white markings on the rocks. My guide explained that a new road is being planned through these mountains. The markings indicate the survey done by the construction team. My heart skips a beat. When a new road is eventually built, this pristine wilderness never be the same again.

I run into a farmer carrying a calf on his shoulder. The mommy cow was following them. We stop and have a brief conversation with him. The calf on the farmers shoulder was born in the mountains only a few days ago. In winter the cows and sheep are brought to lower altitudes. Since the calf was too young to walk down, the farmer was carrying it on his shoulder. The bond between man and animal is very strong.

Now that's a house with a view!

The gentle trail that follows the river ends at the foothills of the steep mountain. The ascend to Jalsu pass is very steep and demanding. I spot a lot of monkeys up in the trees. These monkeys had a distinctive white fur and black face. The sky has become heavy and the fog has started rolling in. Due to bad weather, we are forced to stop and pitch our tents in the middle of nowhere! It is 3 PM. We collect firewood and lit up a fire.

Day 4 campsite

I hear the sound of flowing water nearby but I can’t see any water flowing down the mountain. Since I need drinking water I follow the sound to its source. To my surprise, I find that the brook was flowing under the ground only to emerge out in the open well below our camp. The water that comes out from within a rock or from beneath the earth is considered purer than water flowing on the surface. I fill up my water bottles.

Had dinner sitting on a fallen tree beside the tent. The sound of chirping crickets, wind and flowing water made for a melodious symphony. Suddenly a flying squirrel flew very close over my head and landed on a nearby tree. Towards sleeping time, the sky cleared up.

Day 4: Middle of nowhere - Jalsu pass - Channi (Jalsu pass/ Surai pass trek)

Jalsu Pass

It’s very cold in the morning, but the sky is clear. The fire from yesterday night is still burning. I started walking alone by 0730 to reach Jaslu pass before the clouds rolled in. The descent to the top is quite steep. After a while, the trail disappeared. I’m lost. I sit on the rock as I’m unsure how to proceed. I spot 2 locals going up the mountain. They guided me to back on to the trail.

It took me 1.25 hrs to reach Jalsu pass. The view from the top is magnificent. There is a small Devi temple on top. It’s customary to offer a prayer at this temple while crossing this pass. There is a small shepherd’s house beside the pass. The sheep grazing at Jalsu pass belong to them. Most of these mountain houses are only occupied during summer. In winter the shepherds along with their sheep move to lower altitudes. I strike a conversation with one of the shepherds. He tells me that he normally spends his time in summer at Vagamon, Kerala as paragliding instructor. He has returned back home and to the shepherd’s way of life as opportunities in the tourism sector had dried up due to ongoing pandemic.

Sun drying meat

Jalsu pass marks the border between Kangra and Chamba districts. By the time my guide reached Jalsu pass, it had become foggy. I’m glad that I started out without them! The weather beyond Jalsu pass should be better as this stretch lies in the rain shadow area. The weather, after Jalsu, turned out to be perfect.

There is marijuana everywhere!

The scenery on the route is awesome. We come across some another shepherds house. They were sun drying something that was red in colour. I go closer and have a look. It turns out to be strips of meat. Sun drying is one of the traditional ways of preserving meat. When done properly, it lasts for a year or more without any refrigeration. The shepherds were selling their sun dried mutton for Rs.1500/- a kilo. By the time it reaches the vendors in the city, expect to shell out a lot more. We bought some fresh mutton from them. The mutton from the free range sheep fed on organically grown on pastures in the pristine Himalayan mountains is the better than the best.

Kaladevi and Jagdeep own this hotel at Channi

Beyond Jalsu pass, the trek winds its way down. The trail has become easier. By 1245 we reach a settlement with a few houses. One of the houses was empty and we set up for cooking lunch inside. Lunch was rice and mutton cooked together! Resumed walking again by 2 PM. Weed (marijuana) was growing abundantly. Some plants were even up to 4 mtrs tall. The locals seem more inclined towards alcohol then weed!! Later, the trail became very difficult as it was overgrown with thick vegetation. This path has definitely not been used in a long time. Perhaps we are on the wrong route. The difficult path continued almost until the river crossing. We took a short break and filled up water bottles from the flowing river.

Shepeards arriving at Channi

Our destination, Channi, is only about 15 min distance from this bridge. It was approx. 04:30 when we reached there. Channi is a one house ‘town’. And that house/hotel belongs to the husband and wife team of Kaladevi and Jagdeep. This ‘hotel’ is open for only 6 months. They cater to the shepherds who spend the summer months in the mountains. Jagdeep was smoking a hookah when we came to Channi. I strike a conversation with Jagdeep. Later Jagdeep kept the hookah in the house and started smoking weed. He asked me if I wanted some. There is nothing taboo about weed; after all it’s a plant that grows like weed here!

The 'hotel' at Channi

We cleared the bushes above the house and pitched our tent there. We are joined later by 2 young shepherds and their 4 horses. They were returning to their houses from their mountain hermitage. Channi was to be their night halt. The customer-client relationship here is a bit blurred. It’s more like one big family. They dismounted and touched the feet of Jagdeep as a mark of respect. Later in the evening when Jagdeep bought a huge basket full of beans they rushed to help him chop it up. These freshly plucked beans were cultivated in a plot of land behind the house. My guide explained that the beans would be chopped, washed and sun dried to preserve it for the winter months.

Shepard with his massive flock

As usual, home distilled alcohol was available in plenty. Weed was growing everywhere. It’s party time! I sample the alcohol on offer. It has subtle notes of apples. I retire to my tent. Today’s trek was the longest so far. On the trail today, I saw a fabulous golden mongoose, few snakes, chameleons and many varieties of birds. Before sleeping, I double check that the tent zip has been properly done.

Day 5: Channi – Patola / Lower Tyari (Jalsu pass trek)

The 2 shepherds left with their horses by 7: 45. We began the trek at 0830. There are a few waterfalls, but the earth is more arid than yesterday. We run into 2 shepherds walking uphill with about a 100 sheep! One was leading the pack and another was at the rear. They had almost nothing with them, apart from their clothes. They will spend a few months in the mountains before returning to the plains for winter. I wonder how they manage to live in the mountains with almost nothing with them. Equally amazing is that they can identify each one of their sheep. It’s impossible that their sheep will get mixed up with another flock!

Kuli scene in exotic locales

Signs of civilization being to appear. Apple orchards are now visible beside the road. But the apples are unripe . We spot pears growing beside the road. Picked up quite a few ripe ones. After a while, we reach a concrete large tank beside the road. A pipe laid out from a source of water was continually filling up this tank. This tank is not only for humans, but also for the animals like sheep and horses who use this route. I decide to take a bath; the first one in 5 days. I wash my clothes and put it to dry on the big rock beside it. We have lunch here.

The ascent is very steep. Spot the mule convoy!

The trail so far was long but easy. Then the trail descends abruptly into the river below. Cross the bridge and the trail ascends very steeply. A few locals along with their mules and horses overtook us when we were walking down. The speed at which they traverse these terrain is mind boggling. Inspired by them, I take it as a challenge to trek back to the top without stopping. I’m exhausted, but I succeed. It takes me an hour to reach the top.

Ilaka temple

We have reached a tarmac road. Beside us is Ilaka temple. (Devi temple ?). It’s a modern temple that offers wonderful views. From the temple, an under-construction dam can be seen. Numerous hydel power projects are being built across Himachal. All this construction is bound to affect the ecology of the place. My guide reached Ilaka temple much later. The plan was to walk to the village of Negra. But my guide spoke to the shop owner beside the temple and he dropped us in his car to Negra (Rs 100 per person).

It's a 2 hour walk from the road to get to this house.

Negra is a local transport and logistical hub. It boasts of an impressive 2 buses a day. We take the 3PM bus. The bus ride from Negra to Lower Tyari, Patola took about 1 hour. Beside the bus stop is a long and rather dangerous suspension bridge. Small vehicles like cars and pickups were crossing this bridge. I am surprised that this bridge is capable supporting such loads. We cross the suspension bridge and pitch the camp beside the river in an open field. It’s not crowded, but there are houses nearby. There are 2 small shops. I request the shopkeeper to allow me to charge my phone and camera. He’s more than happy to oblige. There is a wooden bench outside the shop. It’s the local gathering place where men of the village congregate to get latest gossip and events of the day. I make a few friends. They extend their hospitality by offering home brewed alcohol.

Bridge at Patola

Day 6: Lower Tyari (Patola) – Klah village (Sukhdali pass trek)

I get up early in the morning to go about my morning routines. It’s the 2 legged creatures that I’m bothered about today; not leeches or snakes. I stared trekking by 8:30. There is a motorable road to upper Tyari. Half of the length of the road has been paved with asphalt.

Residents of Klah village

After walking about 20 min, a pickup truck offers us a lift until the end of the tarmac road. We thank him and continue walking. From a vantage point I hear drumbeats in a small hamlet on the adjacent mountain. They are having some kind of procession. I’m not sure what it is.

As I’m walking up, I see a woman in her mid 50’s with a deformed leg limping down the road. I remember her from the previous day. She had gotten down from the bus with us. My cook talks to her. She was on the way to her office. Every day in the morning, she limps an hour to get to the bus stop. In the evening it would take perhaps 1.5 hrs to limp back uphill to her home in Upper Tyari. I am humbled. She’s a real hero.

My friend, the apple farmer

I plod along amazed by the spirit of human resilience. I hear some calling out to me. A person in the adjacent apple orchard was calling out to me. He was curious where I was going. I step into the farm and we have a friendly chat. This elderly gentleman is the owner this small apple farm. Beans was being cultivated along with apples. He has been a resident of this village all his life. He tells me that people get caught up in the rat race and don’t have time for simpler things in life. I can’t agree more. He tells me to pluck as much apples as I want! I’m only too happy to oblige.

Its apple harvest season

The village of Upper Tyari was not too far from his farm. The motorable road ends at this village. We put our gear at the small Devi temple in the village and take a break. Its apple harvest season. A mom and son were bring apples to their house. We become friends. The kid takes me to his house. Apples were piled up outside the house. Apples and tomatoes are being sun dried. He opens a room and I’m pleasantly shocked to see apples piled up in the bedroom. And this village has good cellphone reception! I make a few video calls and show them the sights and sounds of a remote Himalayan village.

Beyond the village the walking trail becomes quite steep. I notice a woman walking down with an impossibly large load on her back. My guide explained she is carrying a special variety of grass that grows only high in the mountains. It’s not as heavy as it looks, he assures me. I request her if I can take her picture but she refuses. By then her husband who was following her catches up with her. She tells her husband about my request. He looks at me and we know each other! We were sitting together on the wooden bench outside the shop at Patola yesterday. He readily agrees! And here it is!!

The temple at Klah

We find a small spot beside the road and decided to make lunch. My guide had tried to buy kerosene yesterday but it was not available in the shops. We have to use our supply we have sparingly. We light a fire with wood and cook Maggi. After a short break we resume walking. The trail was pristine and beautiful. The intermittent rain is bothering me. I run into a few kids on the corner of the road. They had their notebooks out and seemed to be studying. As it turned out, they were from Klah village. Due to Covid, schools were closed and online classes were in progress. This was the spot closest to the village where cell phone reception was available!

Reached Klah by 1430. It’s a picturesque village. The waterfall on the opposite mountain adds to the charm of this village. Klah is a collection of about 20 houses. Surprisingly, this remote village has electricity. We put our tent in the covered area of the temple courtyard.

House in Klah

The houses here are predominantly made out of mud, wood and stone. Slate tiles are used for roofing. As expected, the people are very friendly. I go with my camera to click a few pictures. I see a nice house and I walk into the courtyard. I ask their permission to take pictures of their house. They immediately clean the house and prep it up for the photo shoot. They are more than happy to pose for a picture.

Congregation spot of village elders

The temple compound is the local gathering spot. All the elders with their grandchildren have gathered there in the evening. They called my guide and asked for me to take their picture! As usual, the elders were very happy that I am going to the holy Mani Mahesh lake. They tell me that 3 dips have to be taken to obtain full blessings from Shiva. It’s supposed to relieve not only sins from this life, but also the previous 7 lives. The calm in the village was broken by the music blaring out from the temple loudspeaker.

Out tent was laid out in the temple premises

A father and son due who were doing Mani Mahesh trip also arrived there. They had hardly any stuff with them. They intend to reach Mani Mahesh tomorrow. They were given the temple store room to sleep in as they neither had tents nor sleeping bags. At dinner my guide asks me if I want to sample the local drink. The potent colorless elixir has notes of apple.

Day 7: Klah village – Jheel Khad (Sukhdali pass trek)

Cave shrine dedicated to Baba Bhoknath

It’s a terrible day. It’s foggy and raining heavily. The father and son duo have departed early. The intensity of the rain reduces by 0830 and we start the trek. However, it drizzled for most of the day. The scenery today was amazing. We pass by a cave which has a shrine dedicated to Baba Bhoknath. It’s small a vertical cave. To reach the sanctum has to climb 2 sets of steep ladders. In the sanctum are a few figurines dressed in yellow dress.

The changing vegetation is the indicator that the altitude is steadily increasing. We took a break under the overhang of a big rock and lit a fire. It’s a welcome relief from the almost constant cold drizzle. Occasionally, the fog and rain would clear to up to show us scenery that’s straight out of a fantasy world.

We pass by a small shack and decide to stop there for lunch. It turned out to be the summer residence of an elderly shepherd. (I forgot to write down his name).The mud walls of this shack are only about 1.5 Mts tall. This offers only partial protection from the wind and elements. The floor was strewn with fresh grass. A fire is burning in the fire pit located at the center of the house.

Shepard sitting in his house

The shepherd was happily sitting on the floor beside the fire. In summer, he lives alone in this house tending to his flock. Once a month, his son brings him supplies on horseback. His second son works in the army. In winter he will gather his flock and go to the lower altitude pastures along the Punjab-Himachal border.

We used this fire in center of the house to make our lunch - Maggi. We offer him some food but he refuses. He’s happy to eat the small potatoes that he has roasted in the open fire. By the time we finish lunch, the sun comes out. I go outside and take a few pictures. It’s the kind scenery that’s worth dying for! We thank him for his hospitality and move on.

Amazing scenery

I reach today’s destination, Jhel Khed by 3 PM. We are the only people here. This place is well above the tree line. There are few ruins which at are overgrown with grass. The roofs that covered this ruins have long gone. My guide informed me that this was a popular halt for Mani Mahesh pilgrims in pre-Covid days. Canteens and tents sites used to spring up here during the pilgrimage season. 2 years of neglect and nature has reclaimed what’s hers.

There is a small stream nearby. I wash my hands and face with the ice cold water. In a strange way it makes me happy. I sit on a rock beside the stream. It’s just me, the wind, the cold crisp air and the gentle sound of flowing water. It’s magical. I’ve come at the right time. Moments like this will be hard to come once normality resumes after the pandemic.

My camp at Jheel Khed

By evening, a thick fog rolled in enveloping everything. It’s getting very cold. Thankfully, we found some wood from the building ruins and light a fire. Through the fog, I began to hear chattering sounds. 2 people came up to our camp. They were returning after collecting medicinal leaves that grows only in these high altitudes. I’m told that the leaves are used for preparing stomach medication.

Day 8: Jheel Khad – Sukhdali pass – Mani Mahesh - Sundarasi (Sukhdali pass trek)

Arrival at Sukhdali

The weather is terrible. It had rained the whole night. Started walking by 8:45 when the intensity of rain reduced. Today’s trek will be the toughest. There are numerous waterfalls all around. The scenery is amazing. After about 4 hours of difficult trek, we reached a flat area called Sukhdali.

Kuja peak and glacier

The vegetation is sparse here. Kuja peak and Kuja glacier appears very close by. Thankfully, the rains have stopped, but it’s still cloudy. We take a small break. I treat myself to a jam sandwich. Ahead is a very steep mountain. It was so steep that I was sure that there was a way around it. “No” said my guide. We have to go up and over it. My heart sank a bit.

As expected, the trail was very difficult and dangerous. At some places, there is just enough space to put one foot. The thin mountain air is not making it any easier. But the scenery is amazing. There were innumerable waterfalls due to the heavy rains. You are missing something in life if you haven’t trekked across a high altitude Himalayan pass.

Sukhdali pass

Finally we reach Sukhdali pass. At an altitude of 4620 M altitude, Sukhdali pass is the highest point in our trek. The ridge line here is very steep. An Indian flag and a few Buddhist prayer flags are fluttering in the wind. There is a small makeshift temple here. Our cook made the customary offering at the temple. On a clear day the sacred Kailash peak (altitude: 5600 M) is visible from Sukhdali pass. (FYI, this is not same Kailash peak visible during the Kailash Mansarovar trip) However, nothing is visible now due to the thick fog. I was walking around taking a few photographs when suddenly a severe hailstorm began. We quickly collected out backpacks and started running down.

Kailash peak from Sukhdali Pass

The descent from Sukhdali pass is quite steep. There are glaciers beside us. We are joined by a local man who was out in the mountains collecting the same medicinal leaves for preparing stomach medication. We get talking. He tells me that a person can collect about 2-3 Kg of medicinal leaves in a day. This has to be dried before it’s sold. It takes 2-3 Kg fresh leaves to make 1 kilo of dried leaves. A kilo of dried leaves will fetch about Rs 1500/- in the local market below. By now, the holy Mani Mahesh lake (altitude: 4080 M) is in view. He tells us the path to the bathing ghats and departs.

Mani Mahesh Lake

The word Mani means ‘Jewel’. Mahesh is an alternate name for Lord Shiva. Hence ‘Mani Mahesh’ means ‘The jewel in Shiva’s crown’. On a cloudless days and moonlit nights, the reflection of the Kailash peak is visible in Mani Mahesh lake. The most popular route to Mani Mahesh starts from Hadsal. Due to Covid regulations, the police at Hadsal are only permitting those with a valid permit to do the Mani Mahesh pilgrimage. Thankfully, there is nobody monitoring people coming through Sukhdali pass. I’m sure we are the only people today who have used this route today! The holy lake has a small walkway around it and is surrounded by a row of shops. During normal times, Mani Mahesh walkway would be full of pilgrims. But today there are only a handful of people. The Kailash mountain peak should be visible, but it’s obscured by the fog.

Kaish peak and Mani Mahesh lake

Mani Mahesh is pilgrimage lasts only for a month every year. People plan months in advance for this pilgrimage. I’m reminded that it’s my good karma that has brought me here; that too during the sacred bathing month. The religious significance of this lake remained unknown to me even when I started the trek. In addition, I was also in the dark about the Covid related difficulties faced by the pilgrims to reach here. Yet, here I am! The Shiva Darshan at Khodothru Dhar on the 3rd night of the trek also comes to mind. Full of zeal, I head straight to the bathing ghats to wash off my sins this life and the previous 7 lives.

Mani Mahesh Lake

Mani Mahesh is a shallow lake. The water in lake is deep enough only to wade in. Beside the steps leading into the lake is a steel bucket. The trick is to use the steel bucket and pour water over oneself. In the freezing cold, I strip into my cotton underwear and take baby steps into the water. It feels like the water has just melted from the glacier above. Standing in ankle deep freezing cold water, I pour 3 buckets of water over my head. I’m dazed by the ice cold water. Then I hear a male voice shouting out to me from the banks of the lake. The voice says that the whole body including my underwear has to become fully wet. When pouring the water over myself, I had unknowingly leaned forward. Hence the water didn’t fall all over my body. I’m not taking any chances at the holiest of holy spots. I stand straight and pour the 4th bucket of freezing cold water over my whole body. I run out from the lake quickly change into my warm clothes. I am happy. I feel light. The burden of 7 previous lifetimes has been lifted from my shoulders. Then I hear a nagging voice in my head; why did that guy shout out to me to get my underwear wet.

Gauri Kund is bone dry!

I take a walk around the lake. Without the hordes of pilgrims, it’s quiet and serene. There are many pictures for sale in the nearby shops with the reflection of the Kailash in the Mani Mahesh lake. I’m a bit disappointed that Kailash peak is hidden by the clouds. During the pilgrimage season, basic accommodation is available beside the lake. It’s generally a communal sleeping area where warm blankets are provided. We order a cup of tea in one of the many shops around the lake. A hot cup of tea was exactly what I wanted. As we were drinking tea, the clouds opened up. I rushed out with my camera. The peak of the mountain was visible; not all of it. It was truly spectacular. No picture will ever be able to replicate the grandeur of this scene. The legend is that Lord Shiva gives Darshan to only whom he chooses. I can’t ask for more.

Walking to Sundarasi

We start walking down. The descend is steep but the views are quite spectacular. The trail even crosses a small glacier! In normal times there will be numerous shops and langars (offering free food) on either side of the trail. There is almost nothing now. A little below Mani Mahesh is the lake called Gauri Kund. Historically, men would bathe in Mani Mahesh and women in Gauri Kund. But Gauri Kund is totally dry. I think everyone bathes in Mani Mahesh now.

We arrive Sundarasi by 5:15 PM. It’s well above the tree line. There is almost no human presence at Sundarasi. I’m surprised that this place has a name! We find a good spot beside the trail and pitch our tents. Today’s trek has been the longest, the highest, the most difficult and the most dangerous so far. It was a wonderful day.

Day 9: Sundarasi – Hadsal (Sukhdali pass trek)

It rained heavily the previous night. Water seeped into my tent and the foot of my sleeping bag has become wet. A few pilgrims were using a small unkept trail on the opposite mountain. My guide explained that people were using the relatively obscure trails to dodge the police check posts.

Tent at Hadsal

We started walking only by 0945. The trail was generally quiet. Donkey rides are available for those who cannot walk to Mani Mahesh. A family of about 4-5 people were going up to Mani Mahesh. A few among them were doing the pilgrimage barefoot! The path to the holy lake trail is mostly made of gravel and rocks. And then there is the glacier that has to be crossed. I’m told that doing the pilgrimage to the holy lake barefoot is not uncommon. Faith can move mountains!

It was raining intermittently all day. When the rain stopped, we light a fire to make our gourmet lunch: Maggi! When we were cooking, it began raining. There is no shelter from the pouring rain. I ate lunch standing in the cold rain with an umbrella in one hand and a plate in the other. A warm plate of Maggi never felt more comforting! I come across a family doing the pilgrimage with a tiny baby; perhaps 6-8 months old. They did not even have proper raincoats or umbrellas. This, in my opinion, is foolishness, not faith.

Camp at Hadsal

The rains slowed us down quite a bit. We reached Hadsal by 1430. A police vehicle is stopping most people from starting the trail. Our plan is to stay at Hadsal tonight and take tomorrow morning’s bus. We go around Hadsal looking for a place to stay. It’s a small cramped village that springs to life during the pilgrimage season. Thankfully, my guide decides to camp out in the open. We pick up our bags and walk beyond Hadsal. The tarmac road leads to a bridge. We walk below the bridge to a large flat area near the river and pitch out tents there. We are alone. This location is infinitely better than crowded Hadsal. I spend the evening beside the river.

Bustop at Hadsal
Day 10: Hadsal – Khadamukh - Choli - Lamu (Indrar pass trek)

As usual, it rained all night. Even in the morning, it’s pouring down. We have a schedule to keep today. After an early breakfast, we pack our gear and depart. We have arrived in good time to board the 0800 Hrs bus to Khadamukh.

The bus stop has no shelter and we stand in out the open. It’s raining cats and dogs. It’s impossible even to put the backpacks down as it would have become drenched. Thankfully, this has to be one of the most beautiful bus stops that I have ever been to! It’s the rain that has made it so alluring. I take a few pictures by keeping the camera under the umbrella. When the bus finally arrives, its 45 minutes late. It would be an understatement to say that my poncho was the unsung hero of this trek.

Wooden house in lived in.

We alight at a small bus stop called Khadamukh. The main road bifurcates after Khadamukh. We wait for the next bus to Choli. There are a few shops nearby the bus stop. I went to a local hotel and had a ‘proper’ breakfast. After about 45 minutes, the next bus to Choli arrived. It’s a short picturesque ride. There is a bus shelter at Choli. We wait in the bus shelter for about 45 minutes for the rains to subside but it’s a waste of time. We decide to walk to Lamu in the rain.

My room

Lamu is 3 Km uphill from Choli. There is a proper road and makes for an easy walk. Today’s destination is the ancestral house of my guide. This wonderful 3 storied wooden house is almost a 100 years old. My guide was born and brought up in this house. His younger brother and his family still resides here. The top floor has 2 rooms and a kitchen. My guide’s brother and his family live on the top floor. I was given the corner room on the middle floor. Others got the middle room that also doubled as a store. The lower level is for animals. We sat on the floor of the kitchen and the lady of the house served us lunch.

The rains are not letting down. My guide’s brother tells us that it has been raining heavily for the past 3 days. Indrar pass trail would have become very muddy, slippery and dangerous. Tomorrow’s trek appears unlikely. I’m disappointed.

View from my room
Day 11: Lamu (Indrar pass trek)

This house has a wooden shed for a toilet. There is running water and a bucket outside the door. I miss the magnificent views and the little escapades that I have become used to. ‘Civilised’ life is boring.

The itinerary for Indrar pass trek was as follows

Day 1: Lamu - Kuarsi village- Mandara (Camp)

Day 2: Mandara - Chata Pado (Camp)

Day 3: Chata Pado - Cross Indrar pass and overnight stay at Guide’s house at Lakagot

Day 4: Bus to Dharamshala

Lamu post office

If we are to complete the trek, we have to start today. The rains are as strong as ever. My hope is slowly fading away. I am confined to my room. I open the windows and savor the excellent views. It’s my first time living in a wooden house. My wooden room is painted bright green and blue. The corridor of the traditional house is plastered with mud. The middle room always stays warm because of insulation provided by the wood and mud construction. It’s highly unlikely that many of us would see, let alone experience a house like this. These traditional houses are among the last standing. Making a house with such high quality lumber is very expensive. It’s all brick and mortar now.

Kuarsi bridge

I get my food in my room. When my guide’s brother brings me breakfast, he opens the jute bag that was in the corner of the room all along. It’s full of apples! He tells me that they are from his farm and that I could eat all of it, if I wanted.

During the trek, our porter had complained of knee pain. I had given him some medication from my first aid kit to relieve his pain. Probably because of this, an elder man from the village came to see me in my room. He complained that he was suffering from diarrhea. I gave him some medication. It’s obvious that he’s high on alcohol. We have a wonderful conversation about Lamu village, Kerala, India and the latest data from Large Hadron collider.

Surge tank for local hydel power station

By noon, the rains begin to subside. Impatient, I ask my guide if we can start the trek. He explained that along the trail are a few streams that have to be waded across. With the heavy rains, these will become swollen. Crossing them would be dangerous. In the evening, we get news that one of the residents from the village tried to cross such a stream. He was lucky to make it back alive but all his belongings were washed away. I’m disappointed that this leg of the trek has to be abandoned, but ultimately it was the right decision.

Spot us!

Day 12: Lamu – Kuarsi bridge- Lamu (Indrar pass trek)

By 10, the rains have stopped. We decided to walk until the bridge leading to Kuarsi village. The bridge and the road leading there was built recently by the local hydel power company. In earlier times, the path to Kuarsi village was through the rugged mountain tops. This new road has shortened the walking time by at least 5 hours! After an hours easy walk, we reach the bridge. This high pedestrian bridge provides amazing views. Beyond the bridge is the narrow walking trail leading to Kuarsi. The old wooden bridge which was once the lifeline to Kuarsi village is visible below.

The trek ended on Kuarsi bridge.

And on this beautiful bridge, my trek ended. We walk back to Lamu village. It’s disappointing that I’m unable complete Indrar pass trek. My last 2 treks (Roopkund trek and Saramati trek) also could not be completed due to bad weather. The rain gods are unhappy with me. To appease them, I should find the lake dedicated to rain god and take a holy dip there.

While walking back to Lamu, I saw an old man with a walking stick coming down the mountain. Slowly, he walked to a spot beside the road that was bathed in sunshine. He lay down on beside the road side with a flat stone under his head as a pillow. He was soaking up the warmth. By the time I walked past him, he was fast asleep. Amazed, I quipped to my guide how a person could sleep on the road with stone for a pillow! He told me that the old man was a shepherd and that he’s used to it. Even with hi-tech spring mattresses, memory foam, pills and potions we cannot sleep. It’s something to think about!

Later in the day, my patient returned complaining of diarrhea. He is drunk again. I give him the same medication and told him to stop drinking. By now, my fame as a doctor is spreading. The lady of the house comes to me complaining of leg pain. She tells me her full medical history including the visits she’s had to the doctor. I do what I can. Unlike many of us who can easily pop into a nearby pharmacy or a hospital, medical care is hard to come by in such rural villages. It’s easy for us city slickers to glamorise life in remote exotic locales. But in reality it’s a tough life.

We depart from here tomorrow morning to Dharamshala. At night, my guide’s brother came to my room. He gave me few bags of apples and walnuts to carry along. He assured me that both were from his own farm. It’s too much and I’m forced to leave a lot of apples behind. When I got home 3 weeks later, I was still nibbling away on these amazing walnuts he gave me. I have to thank the rain gods for giving me an opportunity to live in such a unique and wonderful house. The hospitality of my host family was second to none. There will be (hopefully), many more treks. But staying in a unique home like this with such warm hosts is indeed a very tall order.

Spot the sheep

Day 13: Lamu – Dharamshala

By guide’s friend picked us up in his car at 0530. He dropped us at Choli bus stop. At 0550, the bus to Dharamshala arrived. After about an hour’s ride, the road was blocked by a landslide. We are the first vehicle to arrive after the landslide occurred. After about 30 min, a backhoe from the local power company arrived on scene. They managed to clear some debris. But the big rock on the middle of the road would not budge. They threw in the towel and went back to their construction site.

At Jalsu pass

Once the loose debris was cleared, there was just enough gap for a car to pass through without falling into the abyss. A couple of ham handed driver crossed this section and drove off. I left my bags in the car and walked to the construction site. A tunnel was being built beside the road for a hydro power project. Beside the tunnel entrance was a small shop cobbled up from tin and aluminum sheets. This shop caters to the construction workers. The only food available in the shop was bread and omelet. And that was my breakfast.

Kuja Glacier

My clothes that I had washed yesterday were still wet. I spread it out on the empty seats of the bus. Seated beside me was a graduate student who travelling to Dharamshala. Regular classes had been suspended due to Covid. She was going to college only to appear for exams. Her house was close to another hydel power tunnel construction site. The blasting in the tunnels was so loud that it would wake them up. She was of the opinion that locals should get a discount on the price of electricity as their land and resources were being exploited.

By 11, the team from the government road maintenance division arrived. A pneumatic drill was used to make holes in the rock. They put dynamite in the holes and blasted it. A backhoe cleared the road. We are moving again. After an hour, our bus conductor got a call that that another bus was in trouble. We stopped for another 30 min for this bus to catch up with us. The people from that bus also joined us.

Taking a well needed rest at Sukhdali

This bus does not go to Dharamshala. My guide told me to get off at a major intersection and take another bus to Dharamshala. My guide and team continued on in the same bus. It was 9PM when I got off. The roads are deserted. I seems like am the only person on the road. Then a car stopped beside me. There was a middle aged couple in the front seat. They asked me if I’m going to Dharamshala and offered me a seat. With no chance of getting another vehicle, I throw caution to the wind. After placing my gear in the boot of the car and I join them. The lady spoke to me and said that she too was in the bus when the landslide happened. She had seen me in the bus and hence offered the lift. They dropped me off at ISBT Dharamshala.

The trip is over. I’m back where I started from. The last 2 weeks have been a wonderful adventure. Every day, the scenery has been breathtaking. These majestic mountains are a nature lovers dream. Yet, the amazing mountains of Himachal Pradesh pale in comparison to the wonderful hospitality of the Himachali people. I shall look forward to another trip here. ‘Bam Bhole’