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| Masks at Samdenyangcha Goempa |
Menchuka (Sometimes written as
Mechuka) is an unexplored gem of West Siang district, Arunachal Pradesh. Nestled between snow capped mountains at an altitude of 6000 ft, Mechuka is generally off
the itinerary for most tourists.
Yargyap Chu River quietly meanders through this little town giving the
town its name:
Men(Medicinal)
Chu (Water)
Kha(Ice).
This town is
predominantly Buddhist (Nygmapa) and has a unique feel and identity when
compared to most parts of Arunachal Pradesh.
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| Home Sweet Home |
I visited Menchuka in May-17. Avoid
travelling to Menchuka during monsoons as landslides become very frequent. Getting
stuck in the road for two weeks in not uncommon!!! The breath taking views of
the mountains are also obscured by the clouds.
Historically Mechuka was
commercially and ethnically tied to China/Tibet. Most of the trading of
Menchuka was done with China/Tibet. Salt was a major item of trade. Cross
border marriages were very common. After the Indo-China war, this trade was shut
down . After the runway in military Menchuka opened up,
civilians were allowed to fly in the AN-32 military transport aircraft to
Assam. They would buy their supplies in Assam, and load it back in the aircraft
to bring it back to Menchuka. Even though the seats on the AN-32 were limited, passengers
had to pay only Rs 4-5 per KG as baggage cost for the goods loaded on the
aircraft!!!
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| Samdenyangcha Goempa above the town |
Roads have reached Mechuka in
early 2000’s. Along with the road has come trade and commerce. The community
which was self-reliant in agriculture for eons has now become dependent on
imports. The cost of local agricultural produce is more than that of the
imported commodities. Hence, many families are abandoning agriculture and
looking for new avenues. The old world charm and unique way of living of Menchuka is slowly but gradually being replaced by modern day consumerism.
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| Prayer flags leading to Samdenyangcha Goempa |
The only doctor at Menchuka is at
the army barracks. He does attend to civilians also. There is a pharmacy near
the city center.
I was put up at the Potala Guest
House (9402292356/9402456822). The charming husband and wife team are wonderful
hosts. Since we were the only tourists they
gave us the room at Rs.800 instead of the normal price of Rs.1000. The next day
our host became the tour guide and took us to see the sights and sounds of
Mechuka in his car. He charged Rs 3000 for the day.
Places to Visit in Mechuka:
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| Dangerous bridge |
Samdenyangcha Goempa (Monastry): Situated on a hillock above the town, this is
goempa is among the holiest Buddhist shrines in Arunachal. It’s religious
significance rivals even it’s bigger cousin at Tawang. A road is being built the
goempa but it has not been completed; for now all have to walk up to the
shrine. The beautiful walk to the top of the Goempa takes about an hour.
To reach the goempa its necessary
to cross the people-only suspension bridge across the river. The suspension
bridge is held up by wooden supports, something that is exceedingly rare. Most
bridges today have concrete supports. The floor boards are also made of wood. Quite
a few of these floor boards are missing and it’s not too difficult to fall
through the bridge into the river and get a holy dip.
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| Idol of Terton Cheje Lingpa |
After the bridge follow the
prayer flags that line the walking trail to the mountain. Since the Goempa is
on top of the mountain any trail that descends is the wrong trail; I’ve became
wiser even before reaching the monastery. Be sure to phone the caretaker of the goempa before you get there as it’s
is not always open.
Padmasambhava is the main deity
here. Beside the main idol is the smaller idol of Terton Cheje Lingpa. He is
the original founder of Samdenyangcha Goempa (monastery). This monastery was
damaged/destroyed twice; once during a flood and later during a landslide.
During both occasions the little idol was found undamaged outside the goempa!! It is said that the idol came out miraculously by itself from within the
monastery before the goempa was destroyed.
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| Nehpema Shelpu Goempa /
Gurudwara |
A new goempa will be built at the foothills of the mountain
as soon as sufficient resources have been mobilised. The spot for the new
goempa has already been decided.
Pema Jelling festival is held at the base of
this this Goempa in April every year.
Nehpema Shelpu Goempa /
Gurudwara: This is perhaps the only place where Padmasambhava and Sikh Gurudwara co-exisit together.
Buddhists believe that Guru Padmasambhava
was meditating in this cave on his travels to Tibet. He was accompanied by
his traveling companions. One day a lion with magical powers appeared and
started a psychic duel with the guru. During the duel, Padmasambhava and his
companions stood up and their turban pressed against the granite. The unique
shapes imprinted on the rock are believed to be this inside-out turban marks.
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| Part of the wall that resemble turban marks |
When the Sikh regiment came to
Menchuka, it appeared to them that these rock shapes resembled the inside-out turban
marks of their guru. Their venerable guru also had been on a trip to Tibet in
search for spiritual knowledge. The Sikhs also adopted this as a sacred spot
and made a gurudwara and Langar.
Walk down through the wooden
steps to the river and there are numerous fascinating spiritual activities to
do. These are considered holy only by the Buddhists. A walk through the crack
in the rock is supposed to relieve people of their sins. At a beautiful spot
near the river, drops of water fall down the moss lined rock. This trickle of
water originates from within the rock. Once should catch this holy water with
his mouth to realise its true potential. This water does have a unique smell
and taste to it. At another spot beside the river one can pick up pebbles from
a circular hole in the rock. The colour of the rock is representative of the
nature of your soul/character. Black stones for bad people and white stones for
good people. I too picked up a stone and its colour was ……….
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| Holy water flowing down |
During the main festival held
once a year, all the villagers gather here and walk around this goempa. Do
visit the small picturesque waterfall within the goempa premises.
Samden Choeling Goempa: This is a newly built goempa and is
closer to town. There is a motorable road that leads to this goempa. From this
goempa there are beautiful views of the town below. This goempa was built by
the Buddhist Cultural Society
Craft centre: Local art work can be purchased here. The collection
of goods at the store is quite limited. The handmade paintings on wood are
worth exploring.
Darjeeling Village: Our hosts took us to Darjeeling village
which a short drive from Menchuka. Our hosts were residents of this village
before they moved to Menchuka. We were invited to their ancestral house for a
cup of tea. The house was completely made of wood. In the centre of the room
was an open fire with a big cauldron of water over it. This fire keeps the room
warm. We were offered regular tea and salted yak butter tea. Both were
delicious.
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| Prayers for Nagas in progress |
In the shrine room of the house a
Llama and his assistant were chanting prayers making offerings to the house
alter. I was told that it was 3 day prayer for the Nagas (Snake gods). These
are part of normal life here and such offerings are conducted twice or thrice
in a household every year.
Monastery at Darjeeling Village: This is a family monastery
and our hosts were going there to make an offering. They invited the visit the
shrine with them. The keys for the monastery are with the old lady who resides
in a house besides the goempa. The exterior of the goempa is
made out of wood and have a dull brown and white colour. I was told that this
colour is due to the different types of local mud that has been applied to
protect the wood. Applying mud paste is the traditional technique of protecting
wooden structures.
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| Idol at Darjeeling Goempa |
Inside the goempa is a massive
statue of Buddha. I really did not expect such a big statue inside. The statue
is made only of clay. The exterior decoration of the stature is done with modern paint. This
statue was made in the recent past by a highly revered local monk.
After this monk passed away, they began searching for his re-incarnation.
Finally, after many years of searching, they
found the re-incarnate boy in USA. Now people are collecting funds to bring him
back to Menchuka.
Phukpa Khanna Cave: In February the faithful undertake a
pilgrimage to this cave located above Darjeeling village. However day trips are
also possible around the year. A guide/local knowledge is always advisable.
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| Exterior of Darjeeling Goempa |
Lame Nego Cave: Pilgrimage to this cave also happens in
February. It’s possible to visit this cave during other times of the year.
Ugin Drukpa Cave: Day trips can be arranged to this cave. I
would recommend a local guide for the caving.
Lovely images! Thanks for sharing them with us!
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