17 Days in Arunachal Pradesh

July 15, 2017

17 Days in Arunachal Pradesh

Day 1 (May-17): Tinsukshia to Tezu

Share-Sumo. Notice the LPG cylinder and bike on top

Arrived at Tinsukhia by 9:30 on the train from Guwahati

Proceed to the old bus stand to get share taxis/Sumo to Tezu. These leave when all the seats have been sold out. Share jeeps charge Rs200 per person. Most of the roads are very horrendous. A new road & bridge is under construction and this will shorten the trip by 60 Km. One of the best places to stay in Tezu is Hotel Oshin. VIP room costs Rs 600.

Tezu is a major transport and commercial hub. However there is only one counter that offers seats to Walong. To go beyond Walong, deal directly with the share jeep driver. I wanted to go to Kibithu but I was told that there is no accommodation at Kibithu. So I took the seats (Rs 600/- per person) for Walong.

Day 2: Tezu to Walong

Walong

Started the trip at 8 AM. The rear seats were also piled up to the roof with goods for Walong. LPG cylinders and petrol were, thankfully, kept on the roof!! Enroute we had a flat tyre. Since he could not remove the spare tyre , he borrowed it from a passing share Sumo. We reached Walong only by 6 PM.

The only accommodation at Walong is the government run Inspection Bangalow (IB). Since we arrived on a Sunday evening, the place was full. The caretaker shifted the people around and got me a room. The rates are fixed by the government and the rates vary depending on the intended reason for the halt at Walong. Government officials on official duty pay least room rent. Indian tourists pay Rs 600 per bed. IB is generally deserted during weekdays.

Day 3: Walong

Walong War Memorial

Decided to have a quiet day. Went for a walk in the morning. Walked to the war memorial at the end of town. This war memorial is for the soldiers of the 1961 Indo-China conflict. Above the war memorial is a Buddhist goempa. This goempa is normally closed. Spotted a small village and decided to walk there. This village, I later learnt, is called Tinai Basti. Many of the wooden floor boards on the pedestrian only suspension bridge to Tinai Basti are missing . A drop into the raging river below from the bridge is not too difficult.

Day 4: Walong –Kibithu- Walong

There are no share jeeps for Kibithu. A hired jeep costs Rs 2000. Enroute is a board that says that this is the easternmost road in India. This road is normally closed because road construction was underway. Thankfully it was open today. The easternmost road of India ends at a military camp in Walong. At Walong is a small shop that sells noodles; that’s it!!Brisk 6 KM walk beyond Walong leads to the village of Wahoo. Walking is the only way to get to Wahoo. This is the last village on the Indian side of the border. Beyond Wahoo is the military camp of Dichu. Dichu is the last frontier before Peoples Republic of China. Chinese settlements can be seen from some vantage points on the road to Walong.

On the way back hiked to Dong. It is said that sun’s rays hit india first at Dong plateau. 1.5 hrs trek from the car parking spot to Dong Plateau. The trek is quite steep and my friend did not make it to Dond. . Tilam, the hot water spring beside the river with worth a visit.

Dong Valley

Day 5: Walong –Tezu

Started the journey from Walong in a share-Sumo by 8 in the morning. Reached Tezu by 5 pm. Checked back into Oshin lodge.

Day 6: Tezu day trip

Hired a vehicle for a day (Rs 3300) .First on the itinerary was Parashuram Kund . The road to Parashuram Kund is terrible. New road is under construction and that should make travel easier and shorter. From the car park at Parashuram Kund, it’s a 10 min walk to the river bank. Dip in the cool, clear, mountain water for therapeutic for the mind and detoxifying for soul. Dip in the Kund is supposed to wash away one’s sins and I’m not silly to waste such a good offer. The main festival is in January and the ghats are crowded. Today we were the only people at the ghats. There is a wooden ladder that leads into the river. Be careful in the river as the water flow is quite fast.

Parashuram Kund

Stopped at Khamoon Sutongpe Stupa. The stupa is made in Thai style(I think) . Walk to the banks of the river beside the stupa and watch the river gently meandering along.

Very close to the heart of Tezu is and Tibeten refugee centre at Tezu. This place is locally referred to as “Llama camp”. Lhagon Jangchub Choeling Monastery is the heart of the community. The people are very welcoming happy to have visitors in their midst.

Day 7: Walong –Tezu

Since the share jeep was departing at 11 am, went to the government run Handicrafts Centre at Tezu. It’s only a short walk from Tezu town. The apathy of staff has to be seen to be believed. I was told that the front door of the handicrafts store will be unlocked only if we buy something!!!

Opposite the handicrafts centre is the Museum. The museum was not open as the person who has the key to the museum was on leave. So we were advised to come back the next week; probably he will be back in the office. Sad state of affairs.

Took the share jeep (Rs 170) to Tezu. We were told that we had to cross over the river as a new bridge was being constructed. If the water in the river is low, the Sumo can wade across. Due to monsoon rains the water level had risen and this was not possible. Our sumo would stop on one side of the river and another vehicle would pick us up from the opposite bank. Construction of the bridge was in full swing when we reached the banks of the river. Dodging steel re-bar being laid on the bridge, carried our luggage over the bridge until halfway point. Now I had to climb down vertical scaffolding with all luggage and the 3 year old kid into a dry section of the river below; a vertical drop of about 20 Mtrs!! Even the vertical distance between the scaffolding bars was not the same. I am extremely thankful to the construction workers who came down the scaffolding with my heavy bags. Another vehicle picked us up from the other side of the river. Reached Roing by 1330.

Sally Lake

Went to Circuit House to get the Inner Line Permit extended. They were surprised to see our ILP and asked us where we had got it made!!! The extension form requires the name of the local sponsor and I told them that we were travelling alone. When I got the ILP extension this was already filled with a sponsors name and details. The lady in the government office who collected the form had filled her own name as our sponsor!!! She told me that was a second generation Malayali living in Arunachal Pradesh and wanted to help us. It was really kind of her as our permits could have been held up in the bureaucratic paperwork.

Checked into Mimu hotel

Day 8: Roing-Mayudiya-Hunli

Hotel at 65KM

Hired a car for 2 days (Rs 5500). The plan was to halt a Hunli for the night. We departed at 8:30 in the morning. The drive is very scenic. Mayudiya gets snowfall in the winter months and it’s a popular tourist destination. Had lunch at the hotel at 65KM (Yes; that’s what it’s called). Since Circuit House in Hunli was closed, we got a room at the dilapidated Inspection Bungalow (IB). Water is available 2 hrs in the morning and 2 hours in the evening. Electricity is only available from 1800-2000 every day.

Here I met an WWF official who was doing a preliminary work before the commencing the snow leopard survey. He suggested that I go to Menchuka and avoid Thirap and Khonsa.

Day 9: Hunli – Rukmani Nati- Sally lake -Roing

Road to Hunli

Started the journey by 7:45 in the morning. It was raining heavily and the beautiful mountains disappeared behind the thick fog. Had lunch at hotel at KM 65. Went to Rukmini Nati to find Chimri fort. My driver assured me that there was no fort there. I even enquired about this fort to some locals but couldn’t help me either. Washed clothes in the Rukmani Nati. Sally lake is another beautiful spot beside Hunli. Checked into DS hotel. At 1500 per night, this hotel is definitely better than the budget priced Mimu.

There is no tourist infrastructure in Roing. I had made a local friend and he arranged for a guide to made the day trip to Milaho lake the next day.

Day 10: Roing- Day trek to Mihao lake

Bitten by Leeches

Started the trek by 8:30. My guide assured me that we could get there in 3 hours. I was warned about leeches on the trail but I didn’t expect a zillions of them!! And then it started raining by the bucketful. I became totally drenched and my shoes were full of water . Occasionally the trail became nothing more than a muddy stream. At some places we had to look for path to walk on. The trek is quite strenuous and the trail ascends for most of the time. My guide kept on telling me ‘only 15 minutes more’ to the lake. At 1400 Hrs we hadn’t reach the lake and I decided to turn back; it was a good decision as we barely made it to outskirts of Roing before sunset. Disappointing not to have seen Mehao Lake in spite of walking from 8:30 to 1800 Hrs. The leeches were happy.

It’s better to start as early as possible for the day trek to Mehao Lake. Alternatively make it a two day trip and camp at Mehao lake on the first night.

Day 11: Roing- Pasighat

New bridge under construction

Took the 7:10 AM share Sumo (Rs 700 per person) from Roing. There are three ferries enroute. Reached Pasighat at 1300 Hrs. Staying at Oman hotel (Rs 1100 per room)

Day 12: Pasighat- Aalo

Started from Pasighat by 1200 Hrs. There are quite a few share Sumo’s that leave in the morning. The roads are horrendous. Road construction is in full swing. In a few years the road journey will be a lot better.

At Aalo booked the share jeep to Menchuka. The Sumo Counter called up the “OK Hotel” and they picked us up from the Sump station. At Rs 800 per night, its value for money.

Day 13: Aalo-Menchuka (Mechuka)

Mechuka

We started the trip by 6 Am. The roads are not as bad as the roads to Aalo. Most of the amazing views were obscured by the clouds. As Menchuka gets closer, the vegetation changes to alpine type of trees. Menchuka is a real gem in the centre of snow capped mountains.

We checked into the family run Potala Guest house.

Day 14: Menchuka (Mechuka) day trip

Day trip of the places around Menchuka. In the

Suspension Bridge to the Samdenyangcha monastry

morning visited the Samdenyangcha Goempa, Nehpema Selphu (Gurudwara) and Samden Choeling Goempa. Stopped at the craft centre at Menchuka. In the evening with our hosts, visited the family run Goempa in nearby Darjeeling village. We were invited to his ancestral house for tea. 3 day Buddhist ceremony was in progress during our visit. Had salted yak butter tea in their house.

Day 15: Menchuka

Darjeeling Monastery at Menchuka

We had planned to return to Aalo today. But since the 3 year old kid developed vomiting during the night, we decided to stay another day. My hosts told me that the only doctor in Menchula was at the army camp and that we could consult him. There is a pharmacy in Menchuka.

Day 15: Menchuka to Aalo

Took the 5:30 Sumo from Aalo. It reached Aalo by 1330 Hrs. I wanted to leave for Pasighat the same day but the last share-sumo from Aalo to Pasignat leaves at 1130. There is a night bus (locally called as ‘Night Super’) but decided against it. Checked into the “Ok Hotel”. As usual, they picked us up from the Sumo counter.

Day 16: Aalo to Pasighat

Mechuka

Arrived at Pasighat by noon. Can’t wait for the road construction to be complete. Overnight stay at Oman Hotel

Day 17: Pasighat to Dibrugarh to Guwhati

Took the 0500 Hrs ‘Winger’ service to Dibrugarh. The roads are good except for the roads near the ferry. Once the construction of the twin deck bridge is completed, the ferries will fall silent. The upper deck on the bridge is for road vehicles and the lower deck is for trains. The new bridge should slash at least an hour off the present journey time.

Ferry across the Brahmaputra

The vehicle dropped us on once side of the river bank. Another vehicle will pick us up on the other side. Ferry leaves the pier once it’s not possible to fill up any more people. In addition to the Winger ticket, be prepared to shell out another Rs 60 per person for the ferry. There were quite a few people in the ferry going to Assam for medical care. There was an infant with an oxygen cylinder with us in the ferry. The ferry ride took about 20 minutes. On the other side of the river make a mad rush for the seats as the seat numbers when the ticket was purchased are no longer valid!!!!

Reached Dibrugarh by 11AM. The train for Guwahati leaves from the new train station on the outskirts of town. Bought food from a shack beside the station as there is nothing else nearby.