Dong: Where the suns rays first reach India

July 20, 2017

Dong: Where the suns rays first reach India

Notice the LPG cylinder and bike on the roof

Started my journey from Tezu at 8 AM on May-17. After a ten hour ride in a cramped share Sumo through some pretty bad roads we reached the small town of Walong (See pic above). The journey in a share sumo is an experience in itself. The empty seats in the vehicle were filled up to the roof with goods. On top of the Sumo were LPG cylinders and petrol cans. The petrol cans were not fully tight and petrol kept splashing out for the entire journey. When we had a flay tyre our driver could not retrieve the spare tyre as too many goods were stowed on top of it. He borrowed a spare tyre from another share Sumo passing by!!!

Walong Military runway

The government run Inspection Bungalow (IB) is the only place in Walong that offers accommodation to tourists. There are no hotels beyond Walong. IB is usually deserted on weekdays and has a surreal feel about it. Since we arrived on a Sunday, all the rooms were all full. The caretaker shuffled people around and made space for us. The room tariffs are fixed by the government and the rate depends on the reason for staying in IB. People staying on official government duty pay the least fare, Indian tourists pay Rs 600 per bed and the maximum fare is for foreign tourists.

Cross the bridge to get to Dong Valley

Form IB there are magnificent views of the military runway at Walong. This is perhaps the easternmost runway of Indian. This runway, like many other military airstrips in Arunachal Pradesh, has been upgraded recently.

There are no share jeeps beyond Walong. Hired a Sumo to do the day trip to Kibithu (Rs 2000). Since there are very few vehicles in Kibithu (Kibithoo) , be sure to book in advance. I also hired a guide (Mr. Tenzing Chaha Meyor/ Ph: +91 9436606046) for the day. He charged Rs 2000 for the day. Without his help I would not have been able to find my way to Dong plateau. Friendly guy to have around for local knowledge

The easternmost road in India ends at Kibithu. Enroute to Kibithu is a signpost that proclaims Dichu as the easternmost motorable road in India. This is no longer true since suspension bridge to Dichu has been destroyed a few years ago. So the easternmost motorable road in India is presently ends at a Military barrack in Kibithu.

Landslides are a regular occurrence

The route to Kibithu is very scenic. Form a few vantage points before Kibithu, building situated in Peoples Republic of China can be seen. There isn’t much to see or do at Kibithu. 6 KM walk beyond Kibithu leads to the Indian village of Kahoo. Beyond Kahoo lies the Indian Army of camp at Dichu. Civilians are not allowed beyond Dichu.

The road to Kibithu is highly prone to landslides and is sometimes only open twice a week. I was lucky to have chosen a day when the road was open. Monsoon time is perhaps the worst time to visit Walong and beyond. Landslides are very common during these months

Places to Visit near Walong

At Dong Valley

Dong valley - Where the suns rays first reach India: The trek to dong starts after a 20 minutes drive from Walong. After crossing the suspension bridge, the ascent begins. The trek is quite steep and my friend I met in Walong didn’t make it to the top. The trek to the top from the car park takes about 1.5 hours. There used to be a village at Dong, but that has been abandoned primarily due to scarcity of water. The terraced field of Dong village have become overgrown with shrubs, but one can make out the outline of these fields due to the varied vegetation. From the top there are beautiful views of the river below. Many people start in the wee hours of the morning to catch the first rays of the sun. Alternatively, camp here overnight and wait for the sunrise.

Walong war memorial: A short walk away from Walong city center is the war memorial to the 1962 Indo-China war. The granite inscription reads “

Tilam hot water spring

This hut of remembrance has been built in the everlasting memory of our fellow countrymen who greatly outnumbered on the snowy mountain tops and rugged defiles of Walong without the shelter of even a tent and suffering from extremes of cold, hunger and thirst laid down their lives in Oct-Nov 1962 in a most gallant conflict for our tomorrow and halted the Chinese war machine here at Walong.”

Walong Goempa: This small goempa is situated above the Walong war memorial. It is normally shut. Ask the local guide for opening timings before going to the goempa.

Walong War Memorial

Tilam: This natural hot water spring is quite close to the car park from where the trek to Dong starts. The water is warm and would make a lovely spot to visit, especially in winter.

Tinai Basti: This is quiet little village walking distance from Walong. Cross the suspension bridge to get to Tinai Basti. Beside the bridge is a small temple. This makes for a pleasant day trek. Walk back through the picturesque road that passes in from of the government school.

Namnti Plains War Memorial

Helmet top: 18 KM from Walong is helmet top. It’s a popular destination in winter

Namti Plains War Memorial: Here the Indian Soldiers of the Gorkha Rifles and Sikh Platoon held back the invading army against insurmountable odds for 22 days. Short of ammunition, food and even winter clothing the soldiers fought to the last man and to the last round. The inscription reads “You are Standing at the Namti plains where the Indian Army fought a fierce battle in Oct-Nov 1962 in defence of Walong, five kilometers to the south. ... … .. … … … … … … As you stand on this hallowed ground and remember those who fought for India’s honour, we ask you to join us in this Solemn Pledge: “Walong will Never Fall Again”. (See pic below for the full inscription.) It is difficult to imagine that this sublimely peaceful location was the setting for a bloody battle. It is said that the river became red with blood of slain soldiers. The local people of Walong and the soldiers on either side have lived through the horrors of war; not the bureaucrats and politicians running the war from Delhi and Beijing.