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| Notice the LPG cylinder and bike on the roof |
Started my journey from Tezu at 8 AM on May-17. After a ten hour ride in a cramped share Sumo through some
pretty bad roads we reached the small town of Walong (See pic above). The
journey in a share sumo is an experience in itself. The empty seats in the
vehicle were filled up to the roof with goods. On top of the Sumo were LPG
cylinders and petrol cans. The petrol cans were not fully tight and petrol kept
splashing out for the entire journey. When we had a flay tyre our driver could not retrieve the spare
tyre as too many goods were stowed on top of it. He borrowed a spare tyre
from another share Sumo passing by!!!
 |
| Walong Military runway |
The government run Inspection Bungalow
(IB) is the only place in Walong that offers accommodation to tourists. There
are no hotels beyond Walong. IB is usually deserted on weekdays and has a
surreal feel about it. Since we arrived on a Sunday, all the rooms were all
full. The caretaker shuffled people around and made space for us. The room
tariffs are fixed by the government and the rate depends on the reason for
staying in IB. People staying on official government duty pay the least fare,
Indian tourists pay Rs 600 per bed and the maximum fare is for foreign
tourists.
 |
| Cross the bridge to get to Dong Valley |
Form IB there are magnificent
views of the military runway at Walong. This is perhaps the easternmost runway
of Indian. This runway, like many other military airstrips in Arunachal Pradesh,
has been upgraded recently.
There are no share jeeps beyond
Walong. Hired a Sumo to do the day trip to Kibithu (Rs 2000). Since there are
very few vehicles in Kibithu (Kibithoo) , be sure to book in advance. I also hired a guide (Mr. Tenzing Chaha
Meyor/ Ph: +91 9436606046) for the day. He charged Rs 2000 for the day. Without
his help I would not have been able to find my way to Dong plateau. Friendly guy
to have around for local knowledge
The easternmost road in India
ends at Kibithu. Enroute to Kibithu is a signpost that proclaims Dichu as
the easternmost motorable road in India. This is no longer true since
suspension bridge to Dichu has been destroyed a few years ago. So the
easternmost motorable road in India is presently ends at a Military barrack in
Kibithu.
 |
| Landslides are a regular occurrence |
The route to Kibithu is very
scenic. Form a few vantage points before Kibithu, building situated in Peoples
Republic of China can be seen. There isn’t much to see or do at Kibithu. 6 KM
walk beyond Kibithu leads to the Indian village of Kahoo. Beyond Kahoo lies the
Indian Army of camp at Dichu. Civilians
are not allowed beyond Dichu.
The road to Kibithu is highly
prone to landslides and is sometimes only open twice a week. I was lucky to
have chosen a day when the road was open. Monsoon time is perhaps the worst
time to visit Walong and beyond. Landslides are very common during these months
Places to Visit near Walong
 |
| At Dong Valley |
Dong valley - Where the suns rays first reach India: The trek
to dong starts after a 20 minutes drive from Walong. After crossing the
suspension bridge, the ascent begins. The trek is quite steep and my friend I
met in Walong didn’t make it to the top. The trek to the top from the car park
takes about 1.5 hours. There used to be
a village at Dong, but that has been abandoned primarily due to scarcity of
water. The terraced field of Dong village have become overgrown with shrubs,
but one can make out the outline of these fields due to the varied vegetation.
From the top there are beautiful views of the river below. Many people start in
the wee hours of the morning to catch the first rays of the sun. Alternatively,
camp here overnight and wait for the sunrise.
Walong war memorial: A short walk away from Walong city center is
the war memorial to the 1962 Indo-China war. The granite inscription reads “
 |
| Tilam hot water spring |
This hut of remembrance has been built in
the everlasting memory of our fellow countrymen who greatly outnumbered on the
snowy mountain tops and rugged defiles of Walong without the shelter of even a tent
and suffering from extremes of cold, hunger and thirst laid down their lives in
Oct-Nov 1962 in a most gallant conflict for our tomorrow and halted the Chinese
war machine here at Walong.”
Walong Goempa: This small goempa is situated above the
Walong war memorial. It is normally shut. Ask the local guide for opening
timings before going to the goempa.
 |
| Walong War Memorial |
Tilam: This natural hot water spring is quite close to the
car park from where the trek to Dong starts. The water is warm and would make a
lovely spot to visit, especially in winter.
Tinai Basti: This is quiet little village walking distance
from Walong. Cross the suspension bridge to get to Tinai Basti. Beside the
bridge is a small temple. This makes for a pleasant day trek. Walk back through
the picturesque road that passes in from of the government school.
 |
| Namnti Plains War Memorial |
Helmet top: 18 KM from Walong is helmet top. It’s a popular
destination in winter
Namti Plains War Memorial: Here the Indian Soldiers of the Gorkha
Rifles and Sikh Platoon held back the invading army against insurmountable odds
for 22 days. Short of ammunition, food and even winter clothing the soldiers
fought to the last man and to the last round.
The inscription reads “You are
Standing at the Namti plains where the Indian Army fought a fierce battle in
Oct-Nov 1962 in defence of Walong, five kilometers to the south. ... … .. … … …
… … … As you stand on this hallowed ground and remember those who fought for
India’s honour, we ask you to join us in this Solemn Pledge: “Walong will Never
Fall Again”. (See pic below for the full inscription.) It is difficult to imagine that this sublimely peaceful
location was the setting for a bloody battle. It is said that the river became
red with blood of slain soldiers. The local people of Walong and the soldiers
on either side have lived through the horrors of war; not the bureaucrats and politicians
running the war from Delhi and Beijing.
 |
| War memorial at Namti Plains |
 |
| View from Dong Valley |
 |
| My guide Tenzing |
 |
| Dong valley |
 |
| Dong Valley |
 |
| Disused bunker before Kibithu |
 |
| The end of the road at Kibithu |
 |
| Enroute to Kibithu |
 |
| Approaching Walong |
 |
| IB at Walong |
 |
| The unsung heroes who keep the roads open |
 |
| The destroyed bridge to Dichu |
Click the links below for more Arunachal Pradesh adventures
Very terifing, I cannot imagine going there lonely
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