Steppes and spirituality: 38-day through Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Nepal
Baraskaun Gorge, Kyrgyzstan
My plan was to spend 3 weeks in Kazakhstan. Indian citizens can travel visa free in Kazakhstan for 14 days. Beyond this period, a visa is required. Getting a Kazak visa looked like a tedious process. However, there is provision that a person can stay for 42 days without a visa in 180-day period. So I‘m doing a visa run. I will the cross the land border into Kyrgyzstan and stay there for a few days. When I return back to Kazakhstan my visa free stay will be refreshed. Nepal is visa free for Indians and it won’t be a bother.
Statue at Almaty
Through the Steppes: 23 Days in Kazakhstan & Kyrgyzstan
Day 1: Home – Sharjah – Almaty
I booked my flights to Almaty via Delhi. Due to the outbreak of hostilities between India and Pakistan, my flight got cancelled. As I had invested significant time and resources into planning the trip, cancelling it was not an option. I ended up buying new flights through Sharjah.
Left home on the morning of 02-May-25. There is a very long transit at Sharjah airport. Without a valid UAE visa, I am holed up at the airport.
Day 2: Almaty
Almaty Street
Arrived at Almaty by 4 AM. I purchased a local SIM at the airport. I activated Yandex app and took a cab to my homestay. It’s a large house located at Ulitsa Maksimogo street. There is a large cherry tree in the property. The house owner does not speak English and we communicate through Google translate. I am surprised to find a small collection of Hindu deities in the kitchen. The land lady daily turned out to be a devotee of Jyoti Siddhar Sri Pranaji. She also told me that she chants “Om um um Ganapaty Namaha” daily. Quite by chance, I had some Indian incense sticks and a small statue of Ganapati with me. I handed it over to her and it immediately went in along with the other deities.
Kaindy small lake
After a quick nap, I decided to walk to the money changer at Dostyk avenue. Along the way, I stopped at a shashlik (kebab) shop called Shashlik Chan. As language is a problem, I am welcomed into the kitchen to choose my kebab. In the kitchen were kebabs (veg and non veg) skewered and ready to be grilled. The shashliks were quite juicy and delicious. 4 shashliks cost approx. 700 Tenge. I would return to this shop, several times during my trip.
Wild flowers at Aksu Zablangy national reserve
Dostyk avenue street is a beautiful tree lined boulevard. There are many shops including money changers here. I explored the street for a while. My large travel bag was damaged by the airlines when it got to Almaty. The hunt for a replacement bag took me to ‘Mega Mall’. It is a huge mall with all the international brands. As I couldn’t find what I was looking for, I headed to the ‘Decathlon’ store. From home, I had contacted the tour company ‘Steppe Spirit’ regarding their conducted tours. They agreed to take cash payment after I reached Kazakhstan. A representative from ‘Steppe Spirit’ meet me at ‘Decathlon’ store and collected cash. Booking tours locally is a lot cheaper than going through the local travel agent in your home country.
The train to Shymkent
Day 3: Almaty –Shymkent (Chimkent)
Today, I take the train to southern City of Shymkent. I chose the day train as it would give me a chance to see the countryside. I have booked the night train for my return to journey to Bishkek. Booking the train tickets was quite a task. My bank refused to make the payment as the train booking website did not comply with the Indian government regulations. So, I had my friend who lives overseas book the tickets for me.
Inside the train to Shymkent
A Yandex cab took me to the train station. The station is quite clean and relatively empty. There is a conductor in each coach. She checked my tickets and let me into my compartment. As planned, the sleeper train departed Almaty station No:1 at 08:55 Hrs. It’s a comfortable journey. I am quite surprised to see a large hot water kettle fixed to the train near the conductor’s cabin. Many passengers have come prepared with teapots to brew tea with this hot water.
Once the train departed Almaty, it’s the endless Steppes on either side. I pass by horses and scattered, isolated villages. This train halted only at a few stations and many of them do not even have platforms. I got off the train at one station and purchased food from the vendors who were waiting for the train. I snapped a few pictures of the train station on my camera. The train conductor told me that photography was prohibited!
I took this pic and the conductor told me that photography was prohibited
The train plodded along. Vendors, usually selling clothes, make regular appearances. On the adjacent tracks there is a steady flow of unusually long container trains. Most of the containers have the words “Chongquing- Freight to the world” written on them. Probably, this railway track is part of the Chinese road and belt initiative.
Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi at Turkistan
A friendly passenger from the next row seat came up to me and started speaking to in broken English. A native of Shymkent, he had moved to Almaty after finishing his studies in Cairo. He owns a company manufacturing herbal medicines. He asked me if I am a Muslim - a question that I would get many times during the trip. He told me that he had 1 wife and 4 kids. Then he asked me if I too had only one wife! Kazakh legal code allows for only one wife. Yet his brother has 2 wives and everyone is happy with the arrangement. Judging by how fondly he spoke of his brother’s life, I got the impression he wanted a few more spouses himself!!
It’s 21:15 when the train arrived at Shymkent station. The train continued onward to Uzbekistan (I think). I took a cab to Sarya Arka Hotel. The large room with bed with breakfast cost 13,500 Tenge.
Day 4: Shymkent (Chimkent) – Turkistan – Shymkent
Bus station at Shymkent
I have decided to travel to Turkistan today. Honestly, I’m not sure what made me choose Turkistan since I didn’t know that a place called Turkistan existed even yesterday! I asked the hotel receptionist how to get there. As per his advice, after breakfast, I took Yandex cab to Samal bus station. As soon as I entered the bus station, the van drivers jostling for passengers asked me where I’m going. They directed me to the Turkistan van. There are no fixed departure schedules; the share vans and taxis depart when they are full. I waited about 20 minutes for my van to fill up with passengers.
Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi at Turkistan
The drive to Turkistan took about 2 hours 15 Min. (1500 Tenge per person) I am impressed with the excellent roads. As we get closer to Turkistan, new under-construction part of town came into view. The new town is being designed with tree lines boulevards, walkways, cycling paths, fountains, public exercise areas etc. – It’s quite impressive. By 12 PM, I get off at the last stop called “Bazaar” located in the old part of town.
New buildings beside the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi at Turkistan
I took a cab to the mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. My Yandex driver spoke good English. He suggested a few placed for me to visit. Many of these are located outside town. He offered to pick me up later and take me to these spots. We agreed on a price ; 20,000 Tenge. He dropped me off near the mausoleum.
The mausoleum complex covers a large area. This entire area has undergone extensive redevelopment recently. As the entrance to the mausoleum is a small, yet interesting museum. Sadly, very few descriptions of the museum exhibits are in English. The mausoleum itself is a very impressive old building. Due to the ongoing renovation, some areas of the building were off limits. Surrounding the mausoleum are several smaller monuments. I did not visit all of them. Behind the main mausoleum are pedestrian streets lined with red roses. The red roses stretch as far as the eye can see; an exceptionally beautiful sight. Most foreign tourists do not venture out to Shymkent and beyond. Perhaps, that’s the reason many people were eager to take photos with me!
Entrance to the ancient city of Otyrar
As I stroll through the complex, I spot another museum. It’s rather small and I am the only person here. The lady in the front desk ran up to me and started talking to me in broken english. She explained that the museum is relatively new - about 1.5 years old. She personally accompanied me inside the museum and explained the exhibits. The original door from the mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi is kept in this museum. After I finished with the exhibits, she handed me a pamphlet detailing a 2-day trek in this area. Someday….
Reconstruction of a dwelling at Otyrar
I called my taxi driver. He picked me up in a different car by 3 pm. The first stop was the ancient city of Otyrar. Its late when we get there. The english speaking guide (3000 Tenge) was quite informative. Otyrar, flanked by its impressive mud fortifications, was an important city on the silk route. As the city was famed for its pottery, I asked the guide about the source for the wood used in the pottery kilns. Apparently, this whole area was thickly wooded in ancient times. The Steppes that we see today are a relatively modern phenomenon. Otyrar endured multiple invasions, including by the Mongols. The city finally died in the 1750’s when the canals supplying it with water were cut off. About 2 KM from Otyrar are the ruins of another ancient city called Arystab Bab. I don’t have time to visit there. I have to rush back to Turkistan in time to catch the last share van to Shymkent.
Intrepid explorer and camel herder's kids
As we are driving back, my cab driver asked if he could stop to buy camel milk for his dad. We pulled up beside an ordinary looking house beside the road. Me and the intrepid explorer followed him into the house. We are greeted by the camel herder and his wife. In the front room are two large chillers containing camel milk. We are provided with a glass of camel milk; for free. It tastes like curd; not to my liking. The intrepid explorer liked it. The 2 kids of the house, who were watching TV, came out to greet the intrepid explorer. I had a packet of kappalandi muttayi in my bag and I gave it to them. All of them happily posed for pictures. Later, my driver told me that horse milk is also sold in these parts. Horse milk is highly beneficial for those recovering from illness. But it has to be consumed immediately after milking; it cannot be refrigerated.
A board at Otyrar
As we drive back, my driver pointed to a large track of land beside the road that was leased out by a Chinese company. This arid salty land will be used for cultivating cotton. He was rather disappointed that the Chinese bring their own people from China to work on the farm. By 18:30 I’m back at the ‘Bazar’ bus station. The round trip to Otyrar was approximately 120 KM. Another modern tourist attraction at Turkistan is the mall/entertainment complex called Caravanserai. The amphitheatre at Caravanserai hosts traditional shows at night (I think). I don’t have time to go there. I regret not having reached Turkistan by at least 10 AM.
It’s 21:15 when I reach Samal bus station at Shymkent. Almost all the shops are closed, except a small restaurant. They were also in the process of closing down for the day. Since their sashlick counter was closed, I ordered lagman. I am the final customer of the day at the restaurant.
Dandelions at Ruslan Guest House and campsite
Day 5: Shymkent (Chimkent) – Tulkubas – Aksu Zablangy
Today’s destination is a homestay on the edge of Aksu Zablangy national reserve. As usual, I’m unsure how to get there! After breakfast, I head to Samal bus station. I enquired around and I am directed to a share van. The driver tells me to get off at the place called Tulkubas. Using Google Translate, I ask him to let me know when we get there. The trip cost 20,000 Tenge per person. These share vans charge a fixed fare irrespective of the final destination. While waiting for the van to get filled up, I gobbled up a few delicious Samsas. By now, it has become a regular part of my diet!
The van driver told me to get off beside the statue and sped off!
By 10:30, the van got full and it departed. It’s a jolly bunch travelling with me. A drunk man constantly kept talking to me in Russian/Kazakh. He was so drunk that he could not read google translate on the phone. The lady seated beside tried to quiet him, but he wouldn’t stop blabbering. Another lady offered me some local bread from her shopping bag.
An hour later the van stopped beside the main highway and the driver told me to get off. It’s the middle of nowhere and there is nothing around; apart from a statue! (see photo). Using google translate, I asked my van driver what to do and where to go! He pointed his hand in the direction of the statue and said “taxi”. He then got back into the van and sped off.
Tks to the sighboard, I have a rough idea where I am!
I have no clue where I am! I picked up my bags from the road and walked to the statue to get a few pictures. Then, I saw a road sign on the freeway exit that read “Tulkubas -4 KM”. That was comforting! The scenery here is very beautiful. I sat for a while in the grass under a large tree enjoying the beautiful views. I made up my mind that I will have to walk to Tulkubas; if I am lucky, I might get a lift. As I was preparing to walk to Tulkubas, a car stopped beside me. The driver got off from the car and lit a cigarette.
Waiting beside the road hoping to get some transport
I walked to up him. With google translate enquired how I can get transport to Tulkubas or Aksu Zablangy national reserve. Turns out, he was actually a private cab driver. I showed the location of our guesthouse and he agreed to take us there (5000 Tenge). A short while after we set off, asked him if he could stop so that I could grab some lunch. He took us to a nearby village and waited until we finished our meal. It’s a beautiful drive. I arrived at the ‘Ruslan Guest House and campsite’ by 3 PM. It’s a small family run place. They are really surprised that I managed to get a cab from the highway. They also took down the number of the cab driver! Guess it was my lucky day.
Ruslan has a few ‘modern’ rooms but I opted to stay in the Yurt. From the yurt, I get an amazing view of the distant, snow-capped mountains. The location is picture perfect. In the evening I went for a stroll on the outskirts of Zablangy national reserve. Beside a small brook, I run into a family with a lot kids. One of the family members walked up to me and began talking in fluent english. He told me that their extended family often comes to this quiet picnic spot. They arrived here the morning with well prepared with snacks and packed lunch. They will return before sundown.
My yurt at Ruslan's guest house
I walked back to my guest house. There are thousands of beautiful dandelions in the guest house lawns. Me and the intrepid explorer picked dandelions and blew them until we got tired. The common kitchen at the guest house is quite spacious. It even has a little dining table. I cooked my own dinner. After dinner, I sat on the chair outside the yurt with a cup of hot coffee. The view is something straight out of a postcard. (See picture) I could totally get used to this life!
Day hike to the waterfall
Day 6: Aksu Zablangy (Ruslan Guest House)
I am going on an ‘easy’ hike to a nearby waterfall. The trip is being organised from Ruslan guest house. Along with me are 4 other people -3 British and 1 local girl- who are also staying at Ruslan’s. 2 of the British expats are teachers at a very posh school in Almaty. One of them had been working in Kazakhstan for quite a few years.
There were excellent views during the hike
The law requires that all trekking groups must be accompanied by be 2 guards inside the national park. But the guards are running late as today is a national holiday (I think). So our hosts took us to a fork in the road and told us to keep walking ahead. The forest guards should catch up to us on horseback in about 20 minutes.
The waterfall we hiked to
We set off by 08:30 AM. With clear skies and with a slight chill in the air, it’s a perfect day for hiking. It’s incredibly quiet as we are the only group doing the trail. I won’t be surprised if we are the only people on the mountain! About an hour into the walk, I noticed a steel pole with markings on it and went over to check it out. I was told that it’s for measuring snowfall. They must be getting a lot of snow here in winter!
The forest guards never turned up. We ended up completing the entire trek own our own. But we did have a guide for a short while; a little hoopoe bird. She walked ahead of us on the road for a while before disappearing into the bushes. The trail is not signposted and we are not sure if we are on the right track. Eventually, I began hearing the sound of waterfall and followed the sound. It’s a slight detour from the main trail to the waterfall view point. We are the only people here.
The steel post is for measuring snowfall in winter
The view point is situated on a gorge. The small, yet beautiful waterfall we hiked all morning to see is on the other side of cliff face. There is no way anyone can get to the waterfall; let alone bathe in it. I sat under a tree and gobbled up my lunch watching the waterfall.
It’s an uneventful walk back to the homestay. I’m back in my yurt by 4 PM. Rest of the day was spent in lazing around. For dinner it’s soup and horsemeat pilaf. Probably my first time eating horse meat. The meat was tender and quite delicious. I discussed my itinerary with the British school teachers over dinner. My plan was to take tomorrow’s night train to Almaty and cross the land border into Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan the following day. They told me an about a quicker route to Bishkek through a smaller border crossing nearby. I cancelled my train tickets to Almaty as this route will give me an additional day in Kyrgyzstan.
My horse adventure
Day 7: Aksu Zablangy – Taraz
Today, we are going on horseback to a gorge. The trip is being arranged by Ruslan’s. 3 people from yesterday’s hike are joining us today. A car picked us from the homestay and took us to a large stable in the village below. The forest ranger who spoke no English joining helped us to mount some rather large horses. There are no instructions on riding a horse! The last time I rode a horse was about 13 years ago in Kyrgyzstan. (Click here) The ranger will be holding the reins of the intrepid traveler's horse.
We first travelled a while over the steppes, then the mountains began. My horse was keeping along with the ranger’s, but the other horses were slow. He often had to go back and gather them. About an hour and half into the ride, one of the women in our group started yelling hysterically demanding that she wanted to get off the horse. She was complaining about the horse and the ranger! She refused to get back into the saddle and angrily started walking back. There is no way that she can be left alone. So we decided to cancel the trip and turned back.
Wild flowers
We dismounted a beautiful spot near the village. The original plan was to have packed lunch at the gorge. We had lunch here instead. After lunch, I went for a quiet stroll. We mounted our horses and went back to the stable in the village. By 15:00, I am back at the homestay.
I called to cab driver who bought me here 2 days ago. He will drop me off at the hotel I booked at Taraz (15,000 Tenge). The highways are quite nice. Almost all the cars in Kazakhstan are imported and many are them are used vehicles. On the drive to Taraz, the Lexus (an old model) touched 180 Km/Hr.
Green Bazaar at Almaty
I am at the Hotel Leon at by 5:30 PM. It appears to be relatively new. It’s a laid black place a small distance from the main road. The helper at the hotel reception was a very sweet elderly gentleman who spoke only Russian/Kazakh. With google translate asked him where I can get drinking water. He took a large plastic container and asked me to come along. In the next block of buildings was a water vending machine. He paid for the water and wouldn’t let me repay him back!
Ascension Church at Almaty
For dinner, I decided to walk to a collection of eateries I located on goggle maps. One of them was a large hotel called Turkibas. They have a large Sashlick takeaway counter outside. The food was quite nice. When I told the waitress that I wanted water, she was rather surprised. I noticed that everyone was drinking either coke or tea!
After dinner, I returned to my hotel. But I still haven’t figured out how to get to Bishkek. I saw the elderly gentleman again at the hotel reception desk and asked him about the route. He made quite a few calls and then gave me a detailed explanation. The closest border crossing to Kyrgyzstan is at a place called Merke, Chardavar. It’s a small crossing and buses do not ply there. A share cab to Chardavar costs 5000 Tenge per seat. Hiring a full taxi will cost 20,000 Tenge. He recommended a good taxi company called “M” and gave me their contact number. But he was unsure if the border crossing can be used by foreigners, like me. And even if I reach Chardavar, its uncertain if I can find transport from Chardavar to Bishkek. I thanked him and went to my room. Later, I found an alternative route to Bishkek on the web, and that is the one I plan to do tomorrow.
Kordai Border crossing. Bus to Bishkek
Day 8: Taraz (Kazakhistan) – Kordai – Bishkek (Kyrgystan)
In the morning, I took a Yandex cab to Taraz bus station. There are many vans here, many of them to Almaty. I find my way to the van to Kordai. (3000 Tenge per person). The van departed once it was full. The roads are quite nice. The drive took about 4 hours. The van dropped us right at the border crossing! There are numerous crossings between Kazakhistan and Kyrgyzstan. This border crossing at Korday is the biggest of them all. There are money changers, shops selling food etc. on the Kazakh side of the border.
Field at Chon Khemin
I had a Samsa, picked up my bags and went to the immigration counter. On the Kazakh side, the immigration officer stamped my passport without even bothering to look up! Beyond the immigration office is a no man land that straddles the Chu river. This river acts as the natural boundary between the 2 Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. The covered walkway through the no man’s land is quite well made. The Kyrgyz immigration officer checked the printout of my visa and stamped my passport. Crossing the border turned out to be a quick and easy process.
Fountain at a park in Bishkek
On the Kyrgyzstan side, numerous taxi drivers approach me promising a ride to Bishkek. I ignored them and walked to the bus station adjacent to the border crossing. I changed some money into Kyrgyz Som, but only a small amount since the exchange rate was terrible. Phone SIM’s cards were being sold beside the bus station. I purchased a SIM and the seller himself activated it for me.
Red sand of Issyuk Kul lake
Bishkek is only about 20 KM from the Korday border crossing. On my phone, I showed the final destination to the bus driver. He assured me he would let me know when to get off, but he didn’t! As I was checking the route on Google maps, I realised that I’m getting further from my hotel. I went to the bus driver and he told me to get off at the next stop. By now was raining heavily.
Yandex cab took me to the Strelets Hotel (3000 Som). It’s a large building set back from the road. Probably, the building started out as a private mansion. My room is quite large and has 4 beds. In the evening went to Bishkek Park mall. It’s remarkable how same the large brands can be found in malls all over the world!
Eastern Bus station, Bishkek
Day 9: Bishkek (Kyrgystan) – Chon Khemin
In the morning, I took a cab to Eastern Bus Station. The vans to Chon Khemin depart from here. I actually remember this place. When I visited Kyrgyzstan in 2012, my homestay was only a stone throw away from this bus station. (Click here) Van # 309 for Chon Khemin departs only when they are full. The 3 hours ride costs 300 Som per person.
Outdoor seating like this is common at Chon Khemin
Chon Khemin is a small rural village. I told the van driver about my destination and promised to tell me where to get off. After reaching Chon Khemin, the van does not directly go to the final stop. Instead, it loops around dropping the passengers at various places. I’m dropped off on the tarmac road. From there it’s a short walk through the muddy unpaved roads to the CBT guest house (1600 Som incl breakfast). At 3:30 PM, I am provided complimentary tea served with bread, biscuits and delicious apricot jam (see pic)
Bread and apricot jam for evening tea
After tea, I went for a stroll around the picturesque village. Cowboys were bringing cattle back to their pen after a day of grazing in the endless pasture. I spent quite a while outdoors soaking in the amazing scenery. It began to drizzle and I was forced to hurry back to my room. It rained for most of the night.
Day 10: Chon Khemin – Bishkek
The man and his horse
By morning, the rains have stopped. I went out early in the morning to take some pictures. It’s very picturesque. In the middle of the fields, I spotted a man with a horse. It was obvious that he had a special bond with the horse. I walked up to him and we communicate with google translate. He even asked me about the ongoing India-Pakistan conflict. He happily posed for pictures and I later send it to him on whatsapp.
The CBT host told me about camping in a remote mountain lake called Kol Tor. From here, it takes about 2 days on horseback to reach Kol Tor. I don’t have the time. Maybe another day…
Stopped at this place called Tokmak
The buses for Bishkek leave every hour on the hour, except at 13:00. That’s what the schedule says, but the vans depart only when full; 10-20 min delay is very common. The rains cleared by 9:45 and I rushed to the road to get the 10 AM van. The van is pretty crowded and I had to stand for a while before I got a seat. The van made a few stops including one at Tokmak. 3 hrs later, I’m back in Bishkek. I realised that the roads in Kazakhstan, in general, are better than those in Kyrgyzstan.
Bread for sale at Alamudin Market
I’m back at Strelets Hotel. After a late lunch, I walked to Tsum Aichurek department to pick up some post cards. The large souvenir section of the store is arguably the best place to do ‘touristic’ shopping. And remember, prices are negotiable.
I walked to the National Museum of Fine Art. It’s definitely worth visiting. After that, I walked past an eternal flame and an obelisk which google calls the “Memorial for Red Guards”. Beside it is a large water fountain.
Eternal flame at Bishkek
I’ve reached the artists centre located beside the Kurmanjan Datka statue in Oak park. There are many paintings on sale, both big and small. I was looking at a large painting and the seller lowered the price from $500 to $200 pretty easily. The next stop was Manas statue. It was all wrapped up, probably for maintenance. I stopped by the by the Lenin statue on while walking back to the Hotel.
Beside the banks of Issyuk Kul lake
Day 11: Bishkek
I have a free day in Bishkek. By now, I have figured out how to use the public transport feature in Yandex. By 10:30, I took the bus to Osh Bazar. I got there and everything is closed! So I took a bus to the bazar near eastern bus station. That too was closed. It turns out that all the bazars in Bishkek are closed on Mondays. Bad luck. I had lunch at a shop outside Osh bazaar.
Intrepid explorer went back to the room and I went back to Manas statue area. I remember this area as being very peaceful and quiet during my last trip. Now there are loads of people and traffic jams. Bishkek definitely feels way more crowded than before.
I decided to walk around town while the intrepid explorer went back to the hotel while. The large park and tree lined streets make Bishkek quite a beautiful city. I went looking for a post office to buy some postage stamps as souvenir. The post cards at the post office were half the price compared to the ones at Tsum Department store!
Bishkek Street
Later in the evening, intrepid explorer met me at the amusement park. It’s located adjacent to Manas statue. Aritom and his son cycled to meet us at the amusement park. I make the payment for our trip ($780). It’s almost 7 PM when I got back to the hotel. The hotel receptionist asked me to leave immediately as I had overstayed my booking! The lady who was at the reception for the past few days forgot to account for the day I spent at Chon Khemin. Thankfully I had a whatsap message in which I had clearly explained my dates. That sorted everything out. But this was valuable lesson for me. I should have everything in chat/text since I usually communicate with everyone using Google translate.
The drive to Baraskoon Gorge
Day 12: Bishkek – Baraskoon Gorge
Aritom picked us up from the hotel at 08:30 AM. It’s a long drive to Baraskoon. About 1.5 hrs into the drive road we pass by a place where all almost the shops had the words written “Kattama” on it. I had noticed this place on the way to Chon Khemin. Aritom told me that Kattama is a traditional food and that this place is called as ‘Kattama junction’. We picked up a Kattama. It tasted like porotta.
This picture captures the essence of Kyrgyzstan
I stopped many places along the road to take picture. Horses were grazing beside the Issyuk Kul Lake. Snow-capped mountains are visible on the other side of the lake. Its picture-perfect. A scene that truly captures the essence of Kyrgyzstan. (See photo)
Most of the roads here were being widened with Chinese assistance. A new train tack is being planned to China and it will pass through Baraskoon gorge. Juma Gul’s property will probably be taken over by the new infrastructure project. The wilderness and beauty of Baraskoon gorge will be lost for ever. My heart sinks a little.
New train tracks being laid to China
We stopped for lunch at a relatively new hotel. Perched on a vantage point beside the road, it offers excellent views of Issyuk Kul Lake. This is off peak season and Aritom had to call them up before we arrived to order food. During tourist season, it will be impossible to find a spot here.
Baraskoon Gorge
It’s 16:30 when we get to Juma Gul’s house. The little blue house looks exactly as I remember it. Juma Gul, Mairam and Aiym, their daughter in-law, welcomed us into the house. As we were enjoying tea served in the traditional style Mairam’s brother and his wife joined us. Before it got dark, I went to the Sari Monyok river beside the house to pick up amethyst stones. There is no running water, electricity or mobile phone signal at the house. Dinner is by the light of battery operated LED lights. More about my trip to Juma Gul’s in 2012, click here.
Semi-frozen Yuri Gagarin waterfall
Day 13: Baraskoon Gorge – Yuri Gagarin waterfall – Fairy tale canyon – Kaji Sayi village
At sunrise, I went out to take pictures and pick amethysts. It’s amazingly beautiful. After about 1.5 hrs, I returned to the little blue cottage. Juma Gul spoke to me about his ill health and people travelling to India for medical treatment. After breakfast, the intrepid explorer joined me at the river. We walked around a bit and picked some more amethysts.
It’s time to leave. We took a few pictures with the Juma Gul’s. All 3 of then stood outside the house and waived to us as we drove away. I’m not sure if I will ever see them again! I’m really thankful that I was able to meet them a second time. Click here for more about this visit to the Juma Gul’s.
Fairytale canyon
By 11:00 we left for Yuri Gagarin waterfall. On the way, we spot a large patch of ice on the mountain. As we had time, we stopped and climbed up to it. The intrepid explorer is excited. It’s her first time touching real ice!!! After this we drove to Yuri Gagarin waterfalls. (Click here for my last visit). The place that was once desolate has become quite popular with package tour buses making regular stops. There is a new statue of Yuri Gagarin beside the car park. I hiked up to the waterfall. Part of the waterfall was still covered with ice. Spend quite some time with the intrepid explorer beside the icy waterfall.
Pier at Issyuk Kul
Later, we stopped at a petrol station in Baraskoon village and handed over a packet of pilaf to Aiym’s husband. Lunch was at the same hotel as yesterday. Then it was off to Fairy tale canyon. This too has become popular with tourists. I walked around a bit. Then I spotted a few people on a high lookout point. So of course, me and the intrepid explorer had to go there. There are no steps and it was difficult going up. I kept on going as I thought there will be trail on the other side to get down. We reach the top. It’s beautiful. All of Fairy Tale Canyon stretched out before us. But there was no path to get down to the other side. We are forced to return through the same path we climbed up. It made for a steep and dangerous descent.
Steel bird sculpture at the hotel beside Issyuk Kul lake
By 5 PM, we reach Kaji Sayi village. It’s a small village on the banks of the Issyuk Kul lake. We are staying for the night in a large family run homestay. Aritom has a house of his own at Kaji Sayi village and he knows hosts quite well. About two decades ago, my home stay owners mother, started one of the first homestays in this area. The homestay we are staying tonight is relatively new. Aritom told me that owners family was in a period of shock. The younger brother who was working in Russia, passed away a few days ago due to cardiac complications. He was in his early 40’s. The family were waiting for his body to be brought back from Russia. It was a sobering reminder that life, no matter where you are, is fragile and unpredictable.
In the Issyuk Kul lake
Day 14: Kaji Sayi village – Bishkek
By 6 Am, I walked over to Issyuk Kul lake. I have been to this very beach on my last trip. It was just as quiet and as beautiful as I remembered. Morning breakfast at the homestay is pancakes and fried eggs. There is fresh bread and apricot preserves on the table.
A small bridge near Yuri Gagarin waterfall
We started the drive back to Bishkek by 9 AM. There isn’t much planned for today. I stopped at a nice secluded spot beside Issyuk Kul lake. The word Issyuk Kul literally translates to ‘warm lake’. As the water in the lake has a relatively high salt content, it never freezes over even in the coldest winters. I test the waters and it’s too cold to take a bath. The red sand beside the lake is quite unique. I must have spent about an hour there. With a tinge of sadness, I whispered good bye to this magnificent lake.
Breakfast at Sakura guest house, Bishkek
The only other stop for the day was for lunch. It’s 5 PM when we reached Bishkek. Aritom dropped me at the family run ‘Sakura guest house’. It’s a place popular with backpackers. The owner of the homestay who managed the front desk asked me if I am Tamil. I am taken aback. She told me that she loves India and has been there 3 times. I told her to include Kerala in her next visit.
Went out for a quiet walk in the evening around Bishkek.
Lenin statue at Bishkek
Day 15: Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) – Almaty (Kazakhstan)
Direct buses ply from ‘New bus station’ at Bishkek to Almaty. As these buses operate infrequently, I chose to make the trip on my own. From the guest house, I took a cab to Alamedin Market. Me and intrepid explorer had a quick look around the market. I have fond memories of eating delicious cake from a local vendor in this market. The market has changed over time and I can’t find the shop. There is a money changer here and I converted Kyrgys Som to Kazakh Tenge. Bus 51 & 34 ply from Alamedin Market to the border town of Korday.
Chon Khemin
Crossing the border was quick and painless. On the Kazakh side were numerous taxi drivers jostling for passengers. I randomly chose a driver. There were already 2 passengers in his car and it departed immediately after I boarded. For an additional fare, the cab driver will drop passengers off at their destination. I got off at the last stop at Almaty. It’s a large bus station and I can hear taxi drivers shouting “Taraz”! So direct transport is available from Taraz to Bishkek, after all! (See day 8)
Yurts beside Issyuk kul
I have gotten the hang of using the Yandex app to navigate public transport. I took a took the bus a point closer to my homestay. From there a Yadex cab took me to the same homestay I had stayed in earlier. Walked to Shashlik Chan in the evening for dinner. The kebabs didn’t disappoint.
Day 16: Almaty – Altyn Emel national park
Today I am doing the 2-day trip to Altyn Emel National Park. My landlady has agreed to keep my belongings in the same room until I return; for free. By 7 AM, I’m at the car park next to Alatau metro station. I am travelling with the tour company called “Steppe Spirit”. They offer some of the most affordable trips to Altyn Emel. It’s all Russian speakers in the group; and a Malayali.
There are no roads inside Altyn Emel national park
Our group consists of 2 Mistubishi Delicias. Today we plan to cover approx. 270 KM. Inside the national park, there are no more roads inside; it’s just open steppes. The requirement for an off-roader coupled with the distance from Almaty makes this one of the more expensive package trips from Almaty.
Katutau
It’s about 3 PM when we get to the first stop; Akatau Chalk Mountain. (Click here for full details of my trip to Altyn Emel National Park). Few of us are following the guide up steep and ‘sandy’ the mountain. It’s not for the faint hearted. As we walk, the soil beneath our feet would give way. The intrepid explorer fell down a few times. Unfazed, she got up and kept pace with the others.
The next stop was Katutau. It’s a small weathered volcanic rock. We climbed up the small volcanic rock to have a better view. We spend only a short time here.
700 year old willow tree
Final stop of the day was at a large 700-year-old willow tree. Legend has it that during the 13th century, the great Genghis Khan stayed at this oasis. The stream that flows beside the willow tree ends up in an adjacent oasis. Locals believe that the tree is sacred and damage to the tree brings bad luck.
We stop for the night at a homestay. It’s large house with many rooms. In my room, the cupboard is filled with the owner’s clothes! Dinner was home-cooked by the family who run the homestay.
The singing dune
Day 17: Altyn Emel national park – Almaty
To avoid the oppressing heat, we have breakfast by 0530 and started by 6 AM. Having only one toilet in the homestay for the entire group made it a bit challenging. Our destination is the Singing Dune, or Singing Barkhan. The sand in this dune is believed to have come from an ancient river that existed here eons ago. When the conditions are right and the wind is in the strong enough, the dune produced a sound like the low pitch sound reminiscent of a jet engine. Today, the wind is strong, but there is no sound. There are stories many stories associated with the dune. It is believed that Genghis Khan visited this dune. Other legends state that Genghis Khan was buried under this dune.
Ski lift at Shambulak
Few of us removed our shoes and started walking up the dune. But the strong wind is blowing sand into our eyes and ears. With a thorthu wrapped around my face, I began the ascent. Yes, the Malayali bought a thorthu to Altyn Emel too! It’s tough walking and the strong winds are a constantly pushing us off course. Me and the intrepid explorer walked halfway up the dune and then turned back. It was a bit scary, yet exiting. (Click here for full details of my trip to Altyn Emel National Park)
House near Shambulak ski resort
We return to the guest house. It’s an early lunch at 10:30. On the menu is home cooked Pilaf. Then it’s the long drive back to Almaty. By 1530, I’m dropped somewhere close to my homestay. A hail a Yandex cab and returned to my homestay home.
A short while later, I decided to go for a walk. I don’t know where I’m walking to. Everything is new and exciting. The roses on the sidewalk are extremely beautiful. I walk past a building with a board “International Centre for the rapprochement of cultures under the auspices of UNESCO”. I stepped inside and discovered a small museum with several exhibits about the Silk Route and Central Asia. I missed the free traditional music concert that got over 30 minutes ago. Bad luck. After walking around for another 30 minutes, I decided to walking back home. I stopped at the local green grocer to buy fresh cherries. They were quite delicious.
Ascension (Zenkov) Church, Almaty
Day 18: Almaty
It’s raining in the morning. Originally, I had intended to visit Shambulak, but the rains changed my mind. When the rains stopped by 9:30 AM, I went to Pilanof park. It’s a short walk distance from my homestay. The Zenkov (Ascension) church is located in this park. Built in 1907 by Andrey Pavlovich Zenkov, this magnificent wooden church is one of the largest wooden structures in the world by internal volume. After exploring the church, I went to the adjacent military museum. It’s Monday, and the museum is closed. Bad luck.
After lunch, I went to Shambulack. A bus took me to the first Shambulak cable car. Unfortunately, the lower cable car was closed for maintenance. So I had to take a cab to the next ski lift. By now, the clouds have rolled back in. The ticket clerk warned that the ski lift was uncovered and I might get drenched in the rain. I took the risk and purchased the tickets (Adult- 4000 Tenge, kids- 2000 Tenge). Luckily, it didn’t rain. It’s quite cold at the top. Even though skiing season is over, there are patches of snow at the top.
At Shambulak ski resort
On the ski lift, I returned back to lower ski lift station. A bus operated by the ski resort took us to the took me to the public bus stop near the lower cable car. It’s a beautiful winding road to the bus stop and many choose to walk down. Then, it was on Bus #12 back to the home stay. For dinner it was the delicious kebabs, courtesy Shashlik Chan.
There was no electricity in the whole neighborhood when I got back. Thankfully it came back a short while time later and I was able to recharge my camera.
Visitor centre near Bear waterfall
Day 19: Almaty – bear waterfall – Issyk lake – Almaty – Saty Village
I plan to do 2 trips today. During the day, I am doing the guided tour to Issyk lake and bear waterfalls. A large van from KazGuidedTours picked me up by about 08:30. It went around collecting people from different hotels. The first stop was Bear Waterfall. It’s a short walk from the car park to the bear waterfall. Intrepid explorer and me are the first to reach the waterfall. It’s rather small but beautiful. We have the waterfall to ourselves. Soon, rest of the travelers arrived and we decided to return to our van. While walking down, we miss a turn and ended up walking through a different trail. We cross a pedestrian bridge and reached the local visitor centre! I would have missed this if I had not got lost! I ended up buying some postcards from here.
Horses beside the road after Bear falls
As we were driving back, we spotted a large number of horses beside a river. The driver stopped the van there for a while and we ended up taking pictures there. (See pic). The next stop was for lunch at a small village. Unfortunately, I forgot to write down the name of this village.
Issyk Lake
After lunch, we headed to the gorgeous Issyk Lake. Issyk lake was probably formed a result of a landslide about 10,000 years ago. This placid turquoise blue lake surrounded by rugged peaks hides a tragic past. In the USSR days, Issyk Lake was a popular summer destination. In 1963, tourists relaxing on its shores were caught in a sudden mudflow. As per some reports, about 2000-3000 people died on that fateful day. The Issyk Lake remained forgotten for a long time. In the early 1990’s the effort to revive the lake and its surrounding areas began. Thanks to these efforts, it has one again become a tourist spot. We spend about an hour time beside the lake. Then it was back to Almaty. It’s 6:30 PM when I reached Almaty. I went back to my room and had my dinner.
Kaindy lake
By 8:15 PM I took another cab to join a 2-day package tour; this time conducted by Almatytour.Kz. We departed Almaty by 9 PM. Travelling along with us in the van is a 3-month old baby. At 2 AM in the morning (I think) we arrived at Saty village. About half of the travelers in the van, including me, got off at a large house. We sleep here for the night. The rest of the people are given accommodation in another homestay.
Kaindy Lake
Day 20: Saty Village – Kaindy Lake – Kolsai Lake
In the morning I went for a walk around the homestay. It’s quite rural; just a few houses scattered around, and that was it! As I was standing there, a tractor came into my homestay and mowed half the backyard. By 9 AM, a Soviet off roader van came to pick us from the homestay. It’s a bumpy ride. At a few places, ‘rivers’ were flowing across the road. Now, I know why we are in a 4-wheel drive van, not the vehicle that bought from Almaty.
The van to Kaindy lake
We stop at a large car park. Kaindy lake has become quite a popular tourist attraction. One can choose the shuttle van or ride a horse to reach the lake. But, I decided to walk up to the lake. It’s a beautiful walk. The road used by vans and hikers is different from trail used by horses. After walking about 20 minutes, I reached a small but beautiful lake. I don’t think this lake has a name. Those who take the horse will generally miss this little gem. From here, it’s a short descent to Kanidy lake.
The small unnamed lake close to Kaindy lake
The Kebin earthquake of 1911 triggered landslide blocking the flow of water. This natural dam led to the formation of Kaindy lake. The tree stumps rising above the blue-green waters gives the lake a surreal feel. The blue-green colour of the lake is due to calcium deposits in the area. One can rent traditional costumes for photos, pose with golden eagles or even get drone shots taken. The lake side was quite busy and I ran into a Malayali couple from another tour group. I would run into them a few times again!
This Kolsai lake pier is an instagram hotspot
We returned to our guest house in Saty village for lunch. Then it was off to Kolsai Lake. It’s a very popular tourist destination. From the car park, it’s a short walk down to the picture perfect Kolsai lake. Beside he car park is a beautiful restaurant. My tour guide told me that this restaurant has the best view in all of Kazakhstan! I think that he might be right—the view was stunning! At the lake, one can rent rowing or pedal boats. The boat pier beside the lake is an Instagram hotspot. (See pic) I too went for a ride in the pedal boat. Later, I spend some time walking beside the lake and lo behold, I run into the Malayali couple again!
Boating at Kolsai lake
I visited the Lower Kolsai lake. The middle and upper Kolsai lakes requires a few hours of hiking and it’s not part of our itinerary. I had read in a few blogs that the upper lakes are more pristine and beautiful than the lower one. Probably another time; I console myself. Around 7:15 PM we are back at the homestay
Kolsai Lake
The tour guide announced that those who want to join the barbeque (or so I thought) should be in the van by 8:30 PM. But it’s 9 PM when we started. We get off at an open field with many parked vans. Looks like all the overnight tour groups are here! Music is pumping and people were standing in a circle around a rather large bonfire. There is someone talking into a speaker in middle of the circle. Then the music started again. As I’m enjoying the music and the bonfire, the person standing next to give me a bottle of booze. I tried to ask him what it’s for but he doesn’t speak English. Perhaps, it’s customary to take a sip and pass it on. As I ponder what to do, the music stops. A person with a wireless mic came up to me and called me into the center of circle.
Walkway beside Kolsai Lake
Turns out, I missed the rules of the game because our van was late. Like a game of musical chairs, the person holding the bottle when the music stops has to introduce themselves to the entire crowd. Lucky me! Later, quite a few strangers would come up and talk to me. I don’t think they have many a sailor in this landlocked country; or probably it was just the vodka talking! As I wander through the crowd, I run into the Malayali couple again- the third time today. The tour guides from the different tour companies put on a short skit by the light of the bonfire. It was in Russian but even I understood the goofy humorous plot. I’m back in my room by 10:15 PM.
Black Canyon
Day 21: Saty Village – Black Canyon – Moon Canyon – Charyn Canyon – Almaty
There are 3 Kazakh ladies travelling together in our group. They are old friends and one of them is celebrating her 50th birthday today. After breakfast, we gathered around to cut the cake. By 8 AM, we were on the road. The first stop was a restaurant/takeaway place to buy packed lunch.
Charyn Canyon
The first stop was Black Canyon. We spend about 15 minutes here. Then we drove to Moon Canyon (a.k.a yellow canyon). This is bigger than Black Canyon and has better views. There were only a handful of people at these two spots. We continued to our main destination - Charyn Canyon. We stop at a crowded car part. Adjacent to it is a visitor centre and a cafeteria.
Van to the bottom of Charyn Canyon
From the car park, one can take a shared van or walk about 20-minute to the bottom of the canyon. I decided to walk down unsure of what to expect at the bottom. It’s hot under the sun. Thankfully, there is cool breeze and with a hat, it became quite comfortable. It’s a beautiful walk to the bottom of the canyon. On either side are orange canyons sculpted over centuries by wind and water. I pass by quite a few interesting rock formations. At the bottom of the canyon is a river. In contrast to the arid canyon, there is greenery at the bottom, particularly on the river banks. The water in the lake was quite cool and the stones glimmered beautifully beneath the surface .
At the bottom of the canyon are a few open shelters. I sat there and ate my lunch. I am joined by a local park ranger and the 3 Kazakh ladies who were travelling with us. They ladies were in a birthday mood and happily shared their vodka and food with all of us. As I was exploring the river, I ran into the Malayali couple once again. They told me that there is 45-minute wait to get the share vans to the top. Thanks to their advice, I rushed out to buy tickets. The intrepid traveler took the van to the top but I decided to walk back.
Stones glistening in the river at Charyn Canyon
As I was walking up, I spotted a small hiking trail and decided to follow it. The trail ended on a small ‘plateau’ but I’m nowhere near the top. As there was not trail walk up, I decided to walk back down. But I can’t; the trail that bought me here looked too steep and dangerous to go down! Left with no choice, I decided to go higher. It was a perilous ascent. At many places, I was on all fours trying to cling on to the canyon face. Finally, with great difficulty, I reached the upper level. It turned out to be quite an adventure; but one I would choose not to repeat.
View from the visitor centre at Charyn Canyon
We drove back from Charyn Canyon by 2:30 PM. Later, our van stopped at a convenience store to pick up some supplies. And once again, I ran into the Malayali couple. It late when I reached Almaty. A cab took me to my homestay.
Day 22: Almaty
After breakfast, I decided to explore the Almaty underground metro system. Built in the soviet era, the stations are beautiful and ornate. By 10 am, I walked to Abay metro. The tickets cost 120 Tenge regardless of the destination.
Zhibek Joly metro station. The mural is at the far end.
From the metro, it’s a short walk to the Green Bazar. The old bazaar with its old fashioned shops is quite popular with tourists. The basement with the fruit and vegetable section is also worth visiting. From Green Bazar, I took a bus to Central State Museum. As I was walking to the bus stop, I once ran into the same Malayali couple! Unfortunately, the husband looked a bit unwell.
Central State Museum of Kazakhstan
The Central State Museum of Kazakhstan is a large impressive modern building. Most of the exhibits is free; only certain sections within the museum require tickets. It’s a nice museum and definitely worth visiting.
It’s 4 PM when I came out from the museum. It’s raining heavily; I am drenched by the time the cab arrived. I had dinner and returned to my room. Later, the Malayali couple came over to my homestay to pick up some medicines. They, too, were astonished by my Russian landlady’s collection of Hindu deities. I had a quick nap and left for the airport by 11 PM.
Kolsai Lake
Day 23: Almaty – Sharjah – Home (airport) – Nepal
My flight departed in early in the morning of 24-May-25. I spend the remaining tenge at the airport; or so I thought. Only at home would I find another stash of tenge in my bag. The original tickets were through Delhi. Due to the India -Pakistan skirmish, I was had to re-book my tickets through Sharjah airport. Unfortunately, there is a long transit time at Sharjah airport. By 5:30 PM I’m at my home airport.
I said goodbye to the intrepid explorer and boarded the next 9:30 PM flight to Kathmandu. The second phase of my trip begins.
Laurbina Sunrise
Holy Lakes and Sacred Vibrations: 15-days through Nepal
Day 24: Home (airport) – Delhi – Kathmandu
I’m starting the second phase of my trip. I reached Kathmandu by 2 PM on 25-May-25. I took a cab to my favourite hotel; the Lotus guest house at Boudha. Deepak, my guide, met me at the hotel.
The original plan was to do the challenging Dhaulagiri trek. Unfortunately, the monsoon season this year started much earlier. So, we settled on the moderate difficulty Gosai Kund trek. But I’m disappointed that it’s a shorter and doesn’t reach the high altitudes of many other Nepalese treks. With hindsight, it turned out to be an excellent decision. (Full blog of Gosai Kund Trek, click here)
Day 25: Kathmandu – Dunche (1996 M)
I woke up in the morning and circumambulated the Boudhnath stupa. By 08:00 I’m on the bus to Subrabesi. The person sitting next to me in the bus said that he too was doing going to Gosaikund and that I’m lucky to have chosen this time to do the trek. I didn’t quite understand what he was talking about!
The cheesemaker at Chandanbari
It’s 16:00 when I got off at Dunche. The bus continued towards Subrebesi, the starting point of Lantang trek. (Click here for my Lantang trek). My hotel, “Hotel Langtang view”, slowly filled up with Nepali pilgrims.
Day 26: Dunche (1996 M) – Chandanbari (3330 M)
After a quick breakfast, we set off on the trail around 7:20 AM. It’s a beautiful walk. It’s 10:20 when we reach the Deurali, a cluster of hotels that cater those travelling to Gosaikund.
It’s a constant ascent from Deurali to Chandanbari. I’m at the ‘Red Panda hotel’ at Chandanbari by 1 PM. It’s dal baht for lunch. There is a yak cheese factory opposite the hotel and I wandered over there. The cheesemaker was busy at work. As I watched him at work, the heavens opened up and it began raining heavily. I bought some yak cheese and retired to my room.
Wall paintings at Shin Goemba
By 5:30 PM, I returned to the common dining area. The wood fired heater is keeping the room warm. I am the only tourist among the room full of pilgrims. There is a real festive vibe in here. (Full blog of Gosai Kund Trek, click here)
Day 27: Chandanbari (3330 M) – Laurbina (3900 M)
Outside my hotel is a charming little Buddhist monastery (goemba) called Shin Goemba. Hence, Chandanbari is also called as Shin Goemba village. Shin goemba has some lovely wall paintings.
The trail ahead was reasonably well maintained with concrete steps in many places. During the pilgrimage season, many small temporary wayside shops spring up. Horses can be hired at different locations for those unable to walk all the to Gosai Kund.
It’s a short 2 hr hike to Laurbina. I am stopping here as I have extra time on my hands. There is no electricity or mobile signal here; just a few solar powered lights in common areas. By 12 PM it started raining very heavily. I can still see pilgrims walking in the awful weather. The resilience and determination of the pilgrims has to be admired. Many did not have even the basic stuff that we take for granted. Some were walking in sandals, others with normal bags slung around their shoulders.
The trekking lodge at Laurbina
Day 28: Laurbina (3900 M) – Gosai Kund (4380 M)
The skies are clear in the morning and the majestic Himalayan mountains are sight to behold. The alternate trail to Langang from Laurbina is also visible from here. Those on the Langtang - Gosaikund trek follow this trail. (Click here for my Langtang trek).
By 8 AM, I started walking. The first half is a steep ascent. Then the trail meanders its way to Gosai Kund. The word Kund means Lake. As I walk up, I see Saraswati Kund, Bhairavi Kund and finally Gosai Kund. I’m at my destination by 11 AM.
Prayers beside Gosai Kund
Taking a bath at Gosai Kund during the holy season, erases all sins and resets the karmic account to zero. For optimal efficiency, one has to take odd number of dips in the lake e.g. 1, 3, 5 etc. Most people do 1 or 3 dips at Gosai Kund. After dropping my bags in the hotel, I went to the holy lake. I plunged in, not once, not thrice, but five times into the bone-numbing cold water. One can never be sure if 3 dips are enough to wash away my super-duper extra strong super sticky sins.
Gosai Kund on left & Bhairav Kund on right
Beside my bathing spot, about 4-5 men and an elderly lady were performing fire sacrifices. They all appeared to be Hindu priests. After drying up, I sat at a respectful distance watching them making oblations into the fire. I am invited to join the priests beside the sacrificial fire. It was magical to sit there beside the lake and listen to the chanting of the sacred hymns. One of priests told me that it was a rare privilege for me to participate in this ceremony and promised, “Punya milega”. It roughly translates to “you will get good merit”.
Gosai Kund
The priest told me the story of the lake. While the Asuras and Devas were churning the ocean of milk, called Palazhi, the highly toxic poison Halahala (Kalakoodam) emerged. The poison has no antidote and they request Lord Shivan’s assistance. Shiva drinks this poison to save the world. Due to the toxicity of the poison, Shivan’s neck turns blue. The world is saved, but now Shiva needs a drink of water to soothe his burning throat. He thrusts his trident into a rock and water gushed out. The rock where Shivan is believed to have thrust is trident is located above the holy lake. Gosai Kund is formed by the water that comes from this rock. (Full blog of Gosai Kund Trek, click here)
Kailasam mountain from Lookut point
Day 29: Gosai Kund (4380 M)
Today is acclimatisation day. We are hiking to ‘lookout point’. It took me an hour to get there. I am completely alone surrounded by silence and stunning views. I can see the snow-capped Himalayan ranges stretching endlessly ahead. My guide pointed out Kailasam (Kailash mountain) in Tibet. From the lookout point I counted about 10 lakes, big and small. There are amazing views of Gosai Kund and Bhairav Kund. Hiking up here will not increase one’s karma, but it had the best vistas on the trip so far.
This Buddhist lady carried her infant to the holy lake
I spend about an hour at the top and descended down. Then, I went for a stroll around the Gosai Kund lake. There are only a couple of people doing this easy walk around the lake. It’s made for a leisurely beautiful walk. By 1 PM I’m in my room. Then it’s Dal Bhat followed by a siesta.
There are many legends and stories associated with his holy lake. The priest I met on the first day here told me that, even now, people see the image of Lord Shivan in the lake. Yet others see a blue light in the lake; blue colour symbolising the colour of Shivan’s neck. In the evening, I met a young Nepali cop who had an unbelievable encounter with a baba (holy man) a few years ago. (Full blog of Gosai Kund Trek, click here)
Holy water from the spot where Lord Shivan thrust his trident into the rock
Day 30: Gosai Kund (4380 M) – Laurbina la Pass (4460 M) – High camp (4220 M)– Phedi (3730 M) – Upper Ghopte – Lower Ghopte (3430 M)
It rained heavily at night. I see fresh snow on the adjacent mountain peaks. We started hiking by 8 AM. I went to the banks of Gosai Kund and sprinkled some water over me. That would have removed all my residual sins, if any.
Teaking a break beside nag Kund
It’s only a short walk from the holy lake to the spot where Shiva thrust his spear into the rock. It’s this water that flows down to Gosai Kund lake. People were praying and filling up the holy water in bottles and jerry cans to take it home. I too filled my drinking water bottle with holy water. There is no such thing as being too safe!
As we hike up the mountain Nag Kund, Buddha Kund and Surya kund lakes come into view. Surya Kund is the highest of all the lakes lake. Curiously, ritual bathing happens only at Gosai Kund. Rest of the lakes remain untouched and pristine. It’s very beautiful on the banks of Surya Kund. I spend some time on its banks before moving on.
At Surya Kund, the highest lake of the trek
Laurbina la Pass (4460 M), the highest point of the trek is very close to Surya Kund. Beyond it is a steep descent. Steps have been made with locally available rock in many places and this was making the descent quite uncomfortable.
The trail beyond Surya Kund has become very peaceful and quiet. I was beginning to enjoy the ‘pilgrim’ vibe but hustle and bustle of the last few days is behind me. It’s so quiet that it feels like I’m the only person on the mountain. Finally, it feels like a Himalayan trek I’ve come to love and cherish.
Bridge near Phedi
By 12:30, the clouds filled up the sky. Thankfully, it didnt rain much. We passed High camp and had dinner at Phedi. Beside Phedi is the trail crosses a beautiful waterfall. Surrounded by thick fog and white stones, the waterfall felt serenely magical.
It’s 5:15 PM when I reached Lower Ghopte (3430 M). It has been a long walk and I’m tired. After dinner, I get into bed early.
Day 31: Lower Ghopte (3430 M) –Thadepani (3653 M)
There were only a few people beyond Gosai Kund
I’m halting at Thadepani for the night as I have an extra day on my hands. Goes without saying that a spending day high up in the mountain in a cold isolated trekking lodge without running water, electricity or mobile range is infinitely better than spending a day at Kathmandu!
It’s a short walk today to Thadepani. In fact, Thadepani perched on the top of the mountain is visible from Lower Ghopte. We started hiking at 08:45. The trail ascents gradually to Thadepani as it sits at higher altitude than Lower Ghopte.
New Yak and Yeti hotel at Thadepani
By 10:45, I’m at Thadepani. The family owned ‘New Yak and Yeti’ hotel is run by an elderly person (probably early 70’s), his son and daughter in law. I have the entire day to myself. I sat outside on a bench outside the hotel watching the world go by. It’s just me and the mountains, exactly how I wanted it.
I am invited into the kitchen to eat lunch with my guide and hotel owners. I removed my shoes and stepped into the wooden floored room. All of us sat on the floor and ate the tasty dal baht together.
Yaks
By 2 PM, it became very foggy and started raining heavily. I retired to my room to sleep. In the evening, there is a heavy hail storm. In the evening, the wood fired heater in the common room was lit up. The metallic body of the heater was cracked and smoke was leaking into the room. The warmth is irresistible and I stay right beside the fire. My guide said that rains at night bring clear mornings. I hope he’s right.
Saw a group of Nepali boys hiking to Gosai Kund near a covered bridge
Day 32: Thadepani (3653 M) – Kutumbsang (2581 M)
It’s a clear morning, just as my guide predicted. There is hail and snow outside the hotel. Nearby mountains are covered in fresh snow. After an early breakfast, we left the hotel by 07:30. I climbed the watch tower beside the hotel to the top to take some pictures. Wonder why a watch tower was made in this remote wilderness! Today’s trail gradually descents into Kutumbsang. I miss the mountain views as it remained cloudy for most of the day.
On the outskirts of Kutumbsang village is a new Buddhist monastery. After walking for another 15-20 minutes, we reached an army check post. The officer on duty checked my papers and made entries into a large book. I’m at my hotel by 12:15. It’s a modern concrete building. In my room is a marvel of modern technology; an electric water heater. I take my first bath in a week. Holy dips in freezing cold water doesn’t count as baths! (Full blog of Gosai Kund Trek, click here)
Wild berries locally called as Aisalu
Day 33: Kutumbsang (2581 M) – Chipling – Thangoni – Chisapani (2165 M)
Initially, we follow the new motorable road to Chisapani. Then, the walking trail enters the mountains wilderness. My guide pointed out yellow berries on a thorny wild shrub growing beside the road. These delicious berries are locally called Aisalu. I have eaten them before; in Bhutan (Click here).
It’s an easy trail until Thangoni. Beyond that is a very steep ascent. A new motorable road is being built to Thangoni, but we are following the shorter hiking trail. The trail we used was overgrown with weeds in many parts and looked unused for a while.
Post noon, it has become quite cloudy. Its drizzling occasionally. We reach Chisapani by 1500 Hrs. I’m tired after the steep ascent from Thangoni. We are staying at the husband and wife run “Hotel bliss”.
Day 34: Chisapani (2165 M) – Kathmandu
Paltan Square, Kathmandu
The original plan was to hike 4 hours to Sundarjal and take a vehicle onwards to Kathmandu. But it’s raining heavily and I’m feeling lazy. So I decided to take a share jeep from the hotel directly to Kathmandu. The hotel owner called the share jeep and it arrived at our hotel by 8 AM.
Paltan Square, Kathmandu
It was a bumpy ride. As the jeep turned a corner, suddenly a large city came into view below. Amazed, I asked my guide what city that was. It was Kathmandu! We got off the jeep at Sundarjal, a suburb of Kathmandu. From a desolate mountain to the hustle and bustle of modern Kathmandu in 1.5 Hrs! My Gosai Kund trek is over. (Full blog of Gosai Kund Trek, click here)
I took a bus from Sundarjal to Lotus guest house at Boudha. After lunch, my guide departed for his home near Dharan; a small town in at the eastern part of Nepal. He invited me to attend his wife’s sister’s wedding. It’s too tempting an offer, but I have other plans.
Bhairav Kund
After lunch I took a bike taxi to Paltan Square. Spend my time wandering around the historic square.
Day 35: Kathmandu / Singing bowl lessons- Day 1
As the rains forced me to do the shorter Gosai Kund trek, I have 3 extra days in Kathmandu. I checked various activities including meditation, thangka painting, crystal healing, singing bowls, yoga etc. etc. Finally, I joined the only activity that fit my schedule; Singing bowl lessons. (Full blog of Singing bowl classes, click here)
My classroom
The 3 day classes run from 8:30 AM - 5:30 PM each day. Harati Sound and Serenity is located near Swayambhu monastery. I reach a quiet, relatively-new 3 storied house. My guru opened the gate and led me to the studio on the ground floor. It’s a large inviting room with brass singing bowls nicely arranged on the floor.
We started off with an introduction to the bowls. My guru played some soothing tones as a demo and then the lessons began. After the first lessons, my guru handed over a bowl to me. The music I made even made my guru comment, “I can’t believe it’s the first time you are playing a singing bowl!” I’m impressed with myself.
Saraswati Kund
The classes got over by 5:45 PM. My guru hailed a bike taxi for me and I’m back at Boudha by 7:30 PM. It’s been a long day. After dinner, I circumabulated the Boudha stupa a few times and retired to bed.
Day 36: Kathmandu / Singing bowl lessons- Day 2
By now I’m getting the hang of it. During the sound bathing or singing bowls sessions, my guru prefers to use the term ‘sound therapy’ as it avoids the air of mysticism associated with the term ‘sound healing’. He told me “it’s all frequencies and harmonics”.
Classes in progress!
My Guru was so engrossed in teaching that the classes stretched on until on till 6:30 PM. It would have continued longer if I had not dropped a few not-so-subtle hints to wrap things up. I had plans of exploring Thamel in the evening, but I’m tired. I returned to Boudha, grabbed dinner and went to sleep.
Day 37: Kathmandu / Singing bowl lessons- Day 3
Started the day by revising what all I (should have) learned. This was followed by a few music and chakra cleansing lessons. My guru demonstrated the other instruments in the room. There was a wonderful collection of wind chimes, big gongs and an instrument that sounded like a waterfall. What fascinated me the most was a circular instrument produced the sound of waves in an ocean. The sound it produced was so true that when I closed my eyes, I felt that I’m sailing in the ocean. And I know the oceans better than most!
I'm a certified sound healer!!
Classes wrapped up by 3:30 PM. I’m now a Certified sound healer! What began as a way to kill the 3 extra days in Kathmandu time unfolded into something far deeper and enjoyable. (Full blog of Singing bowl classes, click here)
By 6:30 PM, I’m at Boudha. For a small price, Yak butter lamps can be lit outside the stupa. Lighting such lamps is believed to bring good luck. I had already collated a list from people who wanted me to light lamps on their behalf. This has become like a tradition for me! After lighting the lamps, I did a few circumambulations around the Boudhnath stupa and retired to bed.
List of lakes near Gosai Kund
Day 38: Kathmandu – Home
My journey which began on 02-May is wrapping up today; 08-Jun-25. By 5:30 in the morning I walked over to the Boudhnath stupa. I joined the big crowd circumambulating the stupa. Then, it was off to the monastery to listen to the monks chanting. I sat cross legged at my usual place at the back of the monastery. Devotees would quietly come in, pray at the alter and make offering of money to the chanting monks. It is believed that offering to monks brings good karma. I too get some money; offering money to good souls also gets you good karma. Thanks to my de-sinning bath at Gosai Kund, those spiritually enlightened souls were able to see my transcendental radiance. It’s a pity that most of you sinners can’t see beyond the façade of middle aged balding man.
The mighty Himalayas
Today’s flight’s departs at 2 PM. After an early lunch, I checked out from my hotel. With my backpack, I did one final circumambulation of Boudhnath stupa. Then it was off to the airport. The flight takes me through Delhi. Its midnight when I get home.
What a journey it was! Every day was an adventure for me and the intrepid explorer. (Click here for the Memoirs of an Intrepid Explorer). 38 days sounds a lot; but it’s nowhere enough to cover 3 countries. There is so much more to see and explore.
Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi at Turkistan
From the majestic mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi in Turkistan to the tranquil banks of Lake Issyk-Kul, the rugged beauty of Charyn Canyon and the singing bowl lesson lessons in Kathmandu; each one a gem. Spending a day with Juma Gul and Mairam at the gorgeous Baraskoon gorge after 13 years was like an impossible dream come true. Listening to the priests chanting mantas by the sacrificial fire on the banks of the Gosai Kund after my holy dip was in many ways a ‘spiritual’ experience. Yet all these experiences pale in comparison to the kindness, warmth and hospitality of the people I met along the Journey.
In hindsight, my Himalayan blunder is painfully clear. I should have hit the casinos of Kathmandu before the effects of chakra cleansing and holy de-sinning dip at Gosai Kund wore off!
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