I had given myself 2 weeks to do a high altitude trek in Nepal in September-October 2022. October is the tail of the monsoon season. My timing is not ideal, but I have to go when I get my holidays. The winter trekking season in Nepal starts by end of October. Although It get quite cold in winter, one is guaranteed to have clear skies and excellent views of the mountains.
The majestic Tilicho Lake
My original plan was to do Nar Phu trek. I chose this trek as it is relatively pristine and unexplored. Additionally, it’s in the rain shadow area. Hiking in rain free Nar Phu areas would be most welcome. A guide is not mandatory for most treks. But for safety reasons, I always choose to have one. I started corresponding with many guides in Nepal. And they made me aware of a problem. Since Nar Phu falls in a ‘special area’, trekking permits are given only to groups of 2 or more trekkers (excluding the guide). Since I am hiking alone, Nar Phu trail will not be possible. After exploring a few options, I settled for ThorongLa pass trek. I chose to hike with a company called Nepal Holiday Trek and Expedition. It turned out to be a very good decision.
Day 1: Arrival Katmandu
I reached Katmandu by 2 PM on 19-Aug-22. I took a cab from the airport to Thamel. My guide had booked a hotel for me at Thamel. Since Thamel is too crowded and congested for my liking, I prefer to stay at Boudha. Since we are to catch the bus morning tomorrow, I have decided to stay at Thamel. It is alot closer to the bus station than Boudha.
My guide and his boss met me in my hotel. Since I had forgotten to bring my camera, my guide gave me his camera to take along on the trip. It’s customary to pay the entire money to the guide before the trek. The 14 day Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass cost me INR 60,000/-. This cost includes permit fees, guide charges, food, accommodation, transport etc. I did not take a porter. My guide has already obtained the necessary permits for the trek. I’m all set for tomorrow.
Dinner at a Tibetan restaurant in Thamel
In the evening, I went out in the streets of Thamel. My first task was to exchange Indian Rupees (INR) to NRS. None of the money changers wanted to take INR as they cannot make money on Indian Rupees. NRS has a fixed exchange rate of 1.6 to INR. The person in money exchange bureau asked me to use INR directly in the shops.
Money kept under the Buddha and Shiva statue on the dashboard. This is lucky charm of my share jeep
Thamel, being the tourist hub of Nepal, has a lot of dining options. Went to a Tibetan restaurant for dinner. Buy all essentials for the trip in Katmandu itself as the prices of all goods increase along the trail. There are numerous shops selling trekking gear in Thamel. Bargaining is the way to shop at these stores. I did my final shopping for the trek and retired to my room. In a short while, it started raining heavily. This year, the rains in have not reduced a bit even by the end of August. All I can do is to hope for good weather.
Placing stones on the road to make it motorable
Day 2: Katmandu - Bashishar
My guide met me at the hotel in the morning. I left some items that were not required for the trek at my hotel. We boarded the 0645 bus to Bashishar from the Katmandu bus station. The traffic in Katmandu is as horrible as ever. But a new road and tunnel complex is being built with Chinese assistance. Once commissioned, it should shave off quite a bit of time from the existing journey. At 1445 my bus reached its final destination.
Bashishar, is the capital of Lajung district. It is also a major regional transport hub. Bashishar is an amalgamation of the words Bashi (Plains) + Shehar (Town). So Bashishar loosely means ‘town in the plains’. Until 20 years ago there were no roads beyond Bashishar. The people in the mountains had to walk for days and come to this ‘town’. The narrow dirt road that extends beyond Bashishar is only suitable for smaller vehicles. For buses and other large vehicles, Bashishar is the end of the road.
Waterfall near hotel at Chyamche
The share jeeps to Chame depart only in the morning. So we have sleep here for the night. We checked into the family run Pushpanjali Hotel. The hotel is located beside the main road. I get a rear facing room that looks out into the paddy fields. We are the only guests in the hotel. Tourism in Nepal industry has not yet fully recovered from the Covid pandemic. And the winter tourist season of this year has not really started. In the good years, places like this would be heaving with tourists. The hotel manager told me that she was hopeful for the return of tourists. It rained heavily the entire night. I’m getting worried now!
Day 3: Bashishar – Chame (2670 M)
Landslide being cleared on my path.
After an early breakfast, we got on the 0730 share jeep to Chame. However, the actual departure has nothing to do with the ‘official’ schedule! The jeep will leave when all the seats are occupied. Less than 3 passengers and the trip will be cancelled. We start moving by from Bashishar by 0830. The jeep fare from Bashishar to Chame is about NRS 4500/-. However, the fares can change as per demand.
By about 0845, we are greeted by a landslide on the road. We cannot proceed any further. Since Bashishar is close by, my driver called up the local road department. By 1030 a backhoe arrived and cleared the road. We are moving again. The journey is quite bumpy and the ‘road’ exists only in a few places.
Monastery at Upper Pisang
Stopped for lunch at a small hotel at Marsyangdi-4, Chyamche. Ordered myself a Dal Bhat. This hotel must be the contender for the ‘Hotel with the best view’ award, if there is one. (see video). After a brief lunch halt, we continued the journey. Yesterday’s rains have not been kind to the road. At one location, we got off from the jeep and placed stones on the road; just to make it motorable! However, this rains pale in comparison to the 2021 monsoon. Places like Tal were badly affected. Many of the bridges on this road were washed away in the 2021 floods. It has been replaced by rickety wooden bridges! While crossing these bridges, it’s best not to think about the rigorous engineering standards to which they are built!
Chame Village. My hotel is the blue building
It was quite late when we reached Chame. It normal to take up to 6 hours to traverse 60 KM! Me and my guide checked into the family run New Tibet Hotel. I am the only person here. I had spotted a small ramshackle shop near the road and walked over for a cup of tea. A warm cuppa with piping hot samosa what the doctor ordered! Chame was also badly affected by the 2021 floods. The damage is quite evident even a year later. Embankments are being built on either side of the river. Even my hotel was almost washed away in the 2021 floods. The river has almost reached the kitchen!
White and red markings on the rock indicate the trekking path.
If has more time, it is possible to trek from Bashishar to Chame. There are 3 options depending on the time available.
5 day hike- Day 1: Beshishar to Bahundada. Day 2: Bahundada to Chamche. Day 3: Chamche to Dharapani. Day 4: Dharapani to Thimang. Day 5: Thimang to Chame
4 day trail- Days 1: Beshishar to Bahundada. Day 2: Bahundada to Tal/Chamche Day 3: Tal/Chamche to Khoto Day 4. Khoto to Chame.
Board at a shop at Munji
3 day trail- Days 1: Beshishar to Bahundada. Day 2: Bahundada to Tal/Chamche Day 3: Tal/Chamche to Chame
With the opening of the motorable road, most hikers nowadays jump on the share jeep from Bashishar to Chame. The local economy in places like Chame that were dependent of trekkers has taken quite a beating.
Day 4: Chame (2670 M) – Upper Pisang (3300 M)
Dwarf apples farm of 'Agro Mananag' at Bhratang
Finally a clear day! I can see the snow-capped Lamdung Himachal peak (6980 M) from my room. We have an early breakfast. We begin the trek in earnest. Most of today’s trail follows the dirt road. After trekking about 1.5 hours we reached a huge apple farm at Bhratang. Attached to it is a hotel and cafeteria. I ventured into the cafeteria, which (surprise surprise) had many apple products. I bought an apple donut (Nrs 100). It was so-so. I strike a conversation with the person in the cafeteria. He told me that the apple farm and accompanying guest house was established in 2014. With 70,000 dwarf apple plants, this is the largest apple farm in Nepal. People doing the apple walks conducted by the farm, are encouraged to pick up as many apples as they want! These agro industries have been possible only after the roads reached here about 15 years ago. Pristine natural vegetation have been replaced with monoculture and drip irrigation. On the other hand, it can be argued that it has provided opportunities and employment in this remote area. Who am I to judge!!
Village of Dilkhur Pokhari
By 1030 we reach the village of Dilkhur Pokhari. Stopped at a small hotel beside the road for a cup of tea. The unique feature of this village has to be curved mountain that’s devoid of any vegetation. The curved mountain acts like a mirror and reflects sunlight on to the tiny hamlet. Accommodation is available for trekkers at Dilkhur Pokhari. In anticipation of the winter trekking season, the hotel where we had tea was being spruced up with a fresh coat of paint.
Shrine at Upper Pisang Goembs
Day 4 halt is either at Upper Pisang or Lower Pisang. Since the dirt road goes to lower Pisang, it makes for an easy hike. Since my guide told me that there was monastery in Upper Pisang, I decided to go there. We go to the ‘Hiltop Lodge’. I’m surprised how big it is. I am told that in peak season, all the rooms gets filled up. Thankfully, I’m the only person here today. This is the advantage of trekking in offbeat season. I sit outside my room soaking in the awesome views of Annapurna 2 peak (7937 M).
Since we have reached here by 1330, I had my lunch here. I take advantage of the clear skies to wash my clothes. Clothes will dry quickly in the dry mountain air. In the evening, I go to the monastery. As usual, it’s situated in the highest point of the village! The goemba (monastery) has the best views in Pisang. The goemba is open all times but the prayers are only in the morning and evenings. I join the 5 PM prayers. The chants of the monks are mesmerizing. I feel sorry for the poor souls who camp at lower Pisang.
Local dish called Deecho is made from buckwheat
I asked the lodge owner to recommend a local dish for dinner. She suggested I try a dish called Deecho. It’s a mash made from locally grown Buckwheat. (see pic). I’m even invited into the kitchen to see it being made. My guide is a bit apprehensive if I will be able to digest it! Thankfully, I don’t have any problems due to it!
Day 5: Upper Pisang (3300 M) – Manang (3540M)
The village of Humle
It’s a clear day. The mountains are visible in all their glory. To take advantage of the good weather, we decide to have an early breakfast and depart early. My breakfast table has been set outdoors facing Annapurna 2 peak. Talk about breakfast with a view! (See video). I don’t want to leave! Grudgingly I pack my bags and start walking by 0700. There are 2 routes from to Upper Pisang to Manang.
The long route: Upper Pisang – Gheru – Nawal – Moonge – Manang. This trail takes about 8-9 hrs.
The short route: Upper Pisang – Humle – Moonge – Manang. This short route takes about 5 hrs. The trail is a lot easier as it follows the dirt road.
Padmasambhava statue at Monge village
I decided to take the shorter route through Humle. It is a very scenic walk. At a few places are the remnants of bridges that were washed away in the 2021 floods. At Humle is a disused airstrip. Due to lack of passengers, the airport had to close down. There are new apple plantations along the road. The ecology of the place will never be the same after the new road opened up.
Approaching Manang
At Monge village (3600 M) is a statue of Padmasambhava (See photo). After a cup of tea we continue walking. Close to Manang, I see a board that says “Padmasambhava Cave”. Apparently Padmasambhava meditated in this Cave. By 12, we reach Manang. Manang ‘city’ is the capital of Manag district. It’s one of least populated districts in whole of Nepal. I check into the ‘Himalayan Singi Guest House’. As expected, I am the only person here! I get the best room in the house. It’s the corner room facing the majestic Gangapurna Glacier.
My guest house at Manang
The owner of the guest house, an elderly gentleman in his 60’s, is all too eager to talk to me. He tells me that life has become a lot easier after the roads opened up. Nowadays, he leads a semi-retired life. In winter months, he goes down to Basishar or Katmandu to avoid the oppressive cold. But his guest house remains open all year round. His kids had emigrated to the USA and Australia a while ago. People emigrating in search of better opportunities was a recurring theme when I spoke to Nepalis. Tourism dependent Nepal was devastated by Covid pandemic. Parents spend their entire life’s saving to send their kids to the developed world. Many others go to the Middle East to make a living. My guide too had worked in Middle East. After a few years, he returned to Nepal and resumed his job as a trek guide.
Day 6: Manang (3540M)
Today is high altitude acclimatisation day. The mantra of high altitude acclimatisation is to climb high and sleep at a lower altitude. Most trekkers choose to stay at Manag for altitude acclimatisation. Since tourists spend 2 nights here, Mananag has more hotels than other places. The plan is to cross the river and hike up the adjacent mountain.
Gangapurna lake and glacier
It’s cold and drizzling outside. In short, it’s a bad day. Armed with a poncho, I set out by 0800. We cross the river and walk up the mountain. Thankfully, the rains have stopped but the mountains are covered in clouds. The climb is quite steep, but at least I’m not weighed down by my rucksack. We reach our destination by 1035 Hrs. It’s an oasis of tranquility. From this non-descript spot (Altitude 3900 M), the whole of Manang is visible. A few prayer flags are fluttering in the wind. I sit on a rock for a while. Slowly, the clouds began clearing and part of Ganagapurna peak and glacier revealed itself.
Buckwheat crop in bloom at Manang
On the way down, we stop at a farmer’s cottage. Behind the cottage is a walled enclosure that’s about 2 mtrs tall. I’m curious and I peek into it. Wheat was being cultivated in in one of the enclosures. The adjacent stone enclosure had 3 calves. We walk to the house to meet the farmer, but there is nobody there. Maybe, he’s at work. I bet traffic jams are the last thing on his mind while going to work.
On the way down, we stop at Gangapurna Glacier Lake. This is a popular spot for day hikes from Manang. I am back in Manang by 1130. In the ‘town square’ is a small museum that has a collection of a few local exhibits. It’s definitely worth a visit. Entry costs 100/- NRs. I wish that the caretaker would clean the exhibits once in a while! On sale at the museum is a book about Manang and its nearby areas. The book is a bit dated (and dusty) but I would recommend buying it. I make my way back to my hotel. Since I have arrived early, I tell the guide that we will go to Padmasambhava cave later. After lunch, laziness gets the better of me. Padmasambhava cave will be a hike for another day!
Buckwheat bread
This trek is popular in winter because it offers spectacular views of the mountains. But it can be deadly too. A few years ago, my guide’s cousin, who was also a professional guide, was on a winter trek with a client. Ignoring heavy snow warning, they decided to trek that day. They got caught in a slow blizzard/avalanche near Manang. Both of them perished in the snow. It was a few days before the bodies could be found.
For dinner I choose the locally made buckwheat bread. (see photo) It’s more like a thick pancake than bread. All along the trail, the price of food is controlled by the local “Hotel Management Committee”. Hence the price of food does not vary a lot between hotels.
Day 7: Manang (3540M) –Karche - Upper Khangsar Village – Siri Kharga (4076 M)
Gangapurna glacier
It’s a picture perfect day. Gangapurna peak, Annapurna 2, Annapurna 3 and Annapurna 4 are visible from my room. After an early breakfast, we start walking at 7. It’s mandatory to show the permit and register at the ‘Trekkers Registration Office’ before departing Manang. This system is designed to monitor trekkers for their own safety. A small percentage of the trekkers permit fees also goes into the development of local communities. There are many notices and photographs on the wall of the Trekkers Registration Office. Among them was a picture of Tilicho Lake. I’m transfixed by its beauty. I had read about this holy lake in the book that I had bought from the museum yesterday. The book stated that bathing in the Tilicho Lake is guaranteed to remove all sins. But it’s not on my itinerary. Today’s plan is to stop at Ladher.
Its a perfect day for hiking
The majestic snowcapped mountains against clear blue skies looks like a snap from a postcard. Adding the scenic beauty are the red buckwheat flowers. Today has been the best day so far! I miss my DSLR camera. We speak to a farmer in working in the buckwheat field. She tells us that it will be month before the buckwheat can be harvested. We continue our gorgeous walk for an hour and half. And then it hits me. I must visit Tilocho Lake. Taking a dip in Tilicho lake is supposed to wash off all sins. I’m sure I don’t have many sins as I had washed them away last year at Manimahesh (Click here) and Manikaran (Click here). Yet, I do not want to miss another golden opportunity to wash away my sins!
Manag is well equipped for the tourist influx
I stop my guide and tell him that I want to go to Tilicho Lake. He’s surprised. I had factored in 2 extra days in my itinerary for possible delays due to inclement weather and landslides. Due to these additional days, I have time to visit Tilicho Lake and return to Katmandu in the nick of time. But the trail to Tilicho Lake diverts at Manang. We are on the wrong path. However, there is another path. It’s a long and difficult trail. Nothing is going to stop me for washing away my bad Karma. Tilicho Lake, here I come!!
The only building at Karche.
By 1030, we reach Kharche. The sprawling ‘megapolis’ consists of 1 building- a trekkers hotel! It a picturesque hotel situated adjacent to a suspension bridge. After hiking to Tilicho Lake, the trail to ThorongLa will once again pass through Karche. So we keep some stuff in this hotel to be collected on our return. After 15 Min hiatus, we start walking again.
Spot the bridge!!!
The trail beyond Karche is quite steep. My guide decides to use a relatively obscure unused path. We are walking through dense bushes and marshy terrain. At some places, we have to clearing the path as we walk along. It’s quite evident that nobody has been here for quite a while. I’m not sure if my guide is lost, but I follow him! Finally, we reach a ‘regular’ walking trail. This leads through the abandoned village called Upper Khangsar. This village was abandoned a long time ago due to scarcity of water.
The cave with a statue, possibly of Padmasambava.
We notice a cave decorated with prayer flags. A steep narrow flight of steps leads to this cave. My guide too has also never been here before. I climb to the entrance of the cave. The view of the valley below from the cave entrance is truly spectacular. Inside the cave is a small black statue of Padmasambhava (I think). We reach Sri Kharga by 2 PM. I show the caretaker of the guesthouse the photo of the cave and ask him about it. Surprisingly, he too was not aware of it! My guide says that’s visiting this remote cave can be considered as compensation for missing the Padmasambhava cave in Manag! Today’s hike lasted about 7 hours. It was the most difficult day so far.
Used an obscure trail to Siri Kharga
The popular route to Sri Kharga passes through Khangsar. This hike will take only about 3-4 Hrs. But, I am told that the ascend from Khangsar to Sri Kharga is very steep. Many continue onwards to Base Camp the same day.
Khangsar is also the end of the jeep trail. Nowadays, it’s possible to travel all the way from Katmandu to Khangsar in an automobile! Day 1) Katmandu to Bashishar. Day 2) Bashishar to Manang. Day 3) Manang to Khangsar. Finding a share jeep to Khangsar can be quite difficult. Hence, it’s better to arrange one well in advance.
Day 8: Siri Kharga (4076 M) – Tilicho Base camp (4150 M)
Guest house at Siri Kharga
Started walking by 0730. The scenery is excellent. The trail passes through heavy landslide areas. At many places, the path is quite slippery and dangerous. In winter months, these areas receive heavy snowfall. The trek to Tilicho Lake does not happen in winter months primarily because crossing this landslide area in snow conditions becomes impossible.
Landslide area before Tilicho base camp
I am at base camp by 1100. I ask my guide if we can make it to Tilicho lake today itself. Post noon, Tilicho Lake becomes very windy. So it’s not advisable to go to there now. I have the rest of the day to myself. I wash my clothes and relax. If one is on a tight schedule, it’s better to do Mananag- Shri Kharga – Base camp in one day.
Porters carry impossible loads over dangerous terrain
‘Base Camp’ exists only for the trekkers going to Tilicho Lake. It don’t think this place even has a local name. Construction of a new trekkers lodge was in full swing. Once that is over, ‘Base Camp’ can boast of being a town with 3 buildings! Construction in these remote parts is a very expensive affair. All material has to reach here on porter back or on horses. In almost all remote lodges like this in Nepal, the cost of the room is subsidized by the food. Hence, the room rates increase substantially if one sleeps at a lodge and eats food elsewhere.
Day 9: Tilicho Base camp (4150 M) – Tilicho Lake (4919 M) - Tilicho Base camp (4150 M) - Siri Kharga (4076 M)
After an early breakfast by 0515, I started walking by 0530. The idea is to return before the winds pick up at Tilicho Lake. I am only carrying warm clothes and water. Rest of my stuff is at the lodge. It’s cloudy, but it’s not raining. The trail ascends steeply for about 2.5 Hrs. Then it’s on a relatively flat terrain. By 8, most of the clouds have cleared up. The walk is quite beautiful. By 0930, I have reached the lake. I’m the only person here.
Walking to Tilicho lake
I have done many high altitude treks, but this has to be among the most beautiful places that I have ever visited. The location is straight out of a fairy tale. No picture can ever do justice to this exquisite location. There are 2 statues beside the lake; one of Buddha and the other of Shiva. The previous day, I ran into a trekker who came here. At the lake were a few Buddhist monks who were making offerings at this Buddha statue. Standing beside the lake, I spot a few small avalanches on the adjacent ice-capped mountains. There is a small shop here, but it is closed. Maybe it opens in peak season.
Taking a bath to get rid of all sins!
Normally people view the lake from the vantage point and turn back. I decide to go into the lake. It’s a steep descend to the edge of Tilicho lake. The holy water of the lake is supposed to cleanse all sins. The water is ice cold; that’s to be expected when one bank of the lake starts at a glacier! Taking a dip/swim is not possible and my guide warns me against it. I first washed my face. Then, I removed my shirt, and sprinkled water on myself. My karmic account has been reset to zero. I feel light and elated. Or maybe that’s due to the cold! My guide tells me to put my jacket on immediately, lest I fall sick. I don’t think he wants me to die beside the lake and go straight to heaven😀
I am back at Tilicho base camp by 1115. By now the sun is out. After a light snack, we walk down to Siri Kharga. At the landslide area, I see porters carrying sheets of plywood with a sling around their forehead. One wrong step in this landslide area can result in certain death! This is the way porters haul impossible loads across the Himalayan Mountains. It is for the new guesthouse that’s being built at Tilicho Base camp. It’s the heavy and dangerous work of these porters that makes tea-house treks possible. They are unsung heroes of Nepal’s massive trekking industry.
Another view of the majestic Tilicho Lake
Reached Siri Kharga by 1420. We stop here for the night. I met a couple of travelers who were going up to Tilicho Lake. Kerala was also on their extended itinerary list. Maybe out paths will cross again someday! After dinner, I retire early to bed. I’m still dunk on the intoxicating beauty of the Tilicho Lake. And to think that I would have missed it; if it were not for my impromptu decision. That would have been a real shame. Someone up there wanted me to get rid of all my bad sins real bad. I wonder why!!!
Day 10: Siri Kharga (4076 M) – Karche (3855 M) – Yak Kharga - Lether (4200 M)
The 'town' of Karche consists of one building near the bridge
Woke up to a miserable foggy day. The overnight rains have not yet stopped. But we have to depart early. On the way up here, we had left some of our belongings at the hotel at Karche. The owner would not take money from us for doing this favour. So we decided to have breakfast there so as to give him some business. We start hiking by 0615. It was raining the entire time. At 0840, we are at Kharche. By now, I have developed a taste for ‘Tibetan bread’. And that’s what I ordered at Karche. ‘Tibetan bread’ deep fried buckwheat, I think. It will have a local name but I’m not sure what it is.
Leave your 'footprints' on the board at Karche.
Beyond Karche, the trail becomes easier. By 1100, I’m at Yak Kharga. I had a hot cup of tea at one of the many trekker’s lodges here. Most people stop here for the night, but we push along. At 1205, I’m at Lether. All of today’s walk was in the cold damp miserable rain. My umbrella and poncho proved their mettle today! The mountain views were totally obscured by the clouds and rain. I feel sorry for the people hiking to Tilicho Lake today.
Wooden bridge near Ladher
Ladher is situated well above the tree line. Even wood for cooking or heating has to be carried up here on horseback. The hotel that I was staying was getting spruced up in anticipation of the winter trekking season. I speak to the caretaker of the place. He told me that this trekkers lodge remains opens all year around; even in winters when it the mercury drops to -20 C.
Day 11: Ladher (4200 M) – Phedi (4450 M) – Thorongla High Camp (4850 M)
Landslide area before Phedi
It’s a miserable cold, rainy day. The kind of weather when you want stay in bed all day! But we have to leave early. After a plate of Tibetan bread, I’m on the road by 0715. Today’s trail is well above 4200 M. The trail until Phedi can be rated as moderately difficulty. The high altitude scenery in the Himalayas is exquisite. Numerous waterfalls on the mountains add to the beauty. Many of these waterfalls pop up only during the monsoon season. This is one of the advantages of hiking in the monsoons. A short distance before Phedi is a dangerous landslide area. By 0930, I am at Phedi. There is a trekker’s lodge here. Ladher and Yak Kharga are more popular night halts than Phedi.
Himalayan blue sheep
I sit on a rock looking into the mountains. Fog, rain and clouds are playing spoilsport. I notice a flock of Himalayan Blue Sheep grazing not too far away. These animals live only in the cold high altitude mountains. Spotting these relatively shy animals is quite a treat. The ascend from Phedi to High Camp is extremely steep. It’s not difficult to understand why this section has the reputation of being the most difficult trail in the entire trek. After an exhausting walk, I’m at ‘High Camp’’ by 1100.
Thorongla High Camp is situated at an altitude of 4850 M. To put it in perspective, Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe only has an altitude of 4805 M! This is the most remote lodge on the entire trail. And the coldest. In winter it temperatures drop below -30C. Yet it remains open all year around. As expected, there is no electricity. Solar power system is limited to a few lights in the dining area. For a small fee, it is possible to charge mobiles and cameras with this solar charging system. There is only one lodge here. In peak season, all the rooms gets booked out. Big tour groups often send a porter/guide early so as to get a room for their clients! There are only about 20 guests here today. The rooms here are basic; without heating or electricity. Extra blankets can be hired for an additional fee. There is a wood and dung fired heater in the dining room. All of us are huddled around this heater. As any traveler can testify, this is the best place to make friends.
Room at Thorangla high camp
Americans, Germans, Spanish, Polish, French, British, Indians and Nepalis are represented beside the heater! Sitting beside me was a Spaniard who spend 3 months in Karunagapally, Kerala as an exchange student. After this trek, he would be flying back to Kerala to welcome the mythical King Mahabali and celebrate Onam. I’m surprised when a couple of tourists arrive here on the back of mules! My guide explained that it’s possible to hire a mules from Yak Kharga or Phedi. Apparently, mules are more suited for the higher altitudes than horses.
I am suffering from mild dysentery and begin self-medication. There are only 2 toilets at this lodge. Finding an empty toilet when this place is booked full can be a challenge in itself! The toilet is constructed away from the residential area. That means I have to go out in the ice cold rain every time I have a bout of diarrhea! Outside the toilet is a 200 Ltr plastic drum that is filled with freezing cold water. To use the toilet, one has to take water from this big drum into the toilet in a small metal container provided for the purpose. If that wasn’t exciting enough, the toilet has no windows or electric lights. It’s pitch dark inside. Bring-your-own-light is the mantra using for the toilet! Multiple times today, I have scientifically proven that the 3 most important items in a trekkers backpack are medicines, a charged flashlight and toilet paper!
We have to leave early next day. The system here is to order tomorrow’s breakfast along with dinner and settle all the bills the tonight. It’s still drizzling and most of us are pessimistic about tomorrow’s weather. However, the owner of the lodge assures me that tomorrow will be a good day. After an early dinner, I retire to my room. At these high altitudes, many find it difficult to sleep. Weird dreams are also common. Some dabble with pharmaceuticals and/or weed. Each to his own! There was English trekker who was in my lodge at Tilicho Base camp. Due to the high altitude he could not sleep. And when he did sleep, he repeatedly dreamt about making Portuguese Custard Pie!
Walking to Thorongla Pass
Day 12: Thorongla High Camp (4850 M) – Thorongla Pass (5416 M) – Phedi (4200) – Mukthinath (3800 M) – Kagbeni (2850 M)
Like most high altitude locations, Thorongla pass becomes quite windy by noon. So we have to start early. I finish my breakfast by 0430 and leave by 0450. It’s advisable to depart before 0530 AM. After Thorongla High Camp, the only place of shelter/rest is Phedi. So one is out in the open for almost 5 hours. In Oct-2014, this part of the trail was hit by a severe blizzard. Without shelter, about 30 trekkers perished on that fateful day. Helicopters were pressed into service when the weather improved. Many more were rescued. The dangers of high altitude treks should never be forgotten.
Been there, done that!! At Thorongla pass (5416 M)
Thankfully, today a clear day. A snow blizzard is the last thing on my mind. My immediate worry is finding a path in the pitch darkness. By the illumination provided by flashlghts, we go up the mountain. It’s very cold, but thankfully the wind is very quiet. The ascend to the peak is not very steep, but the lack of oxygen at these high altitudes is making trekking difficult.
I’m at Thorongla Pass by 0700. At 5416 M, this is the highest point of the trek. Mission accomplished. But the mountains are obscured by clouds. Another group who were the first to reach here today had started from Thorongla High camp at 0400 Hrs! We congratulate each other. I take a few pictures. And then we start walking down by 0730.
As we decent, sparse vegetation appear
From here, it’s an unforgiving steep descent. The views as we descend are truly mesmerizing. As we start walking down, the scenery slowly changes. Thorongla Pass is devoid of any vegetation. As we descend, grass appears. And down below I can see shrubs and trees. We reach Phedi by 0950. After a cup of coffee we are on our feet again. I reach Mukthinath by 1100. That’s a brutal descend of approx. 1600 M in about 3.5 Hrs.
Main shrine at Mukthinath temple complex
Only a handful of people who do the trek in reverse; i.e. start from Mukthinath and stop at Thorongla High Camp. These reverse path is not to be attempted by ‘normal’ people. In addition to the difficulty of the extremely steep ascend, one can develop altitude sickness. However, I did meet one person hiking from Mukthinath to Thorongla High Camp. He had been hiking in Upper Mustang and was already acclimatized to high altitudes.
The first stop at Mukthinath was a relatively new Buddhist monastery run by nuns. This is the highest temple here. Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this monastery. I went to the prayer room and offered my respects. Walk down the steps in the monastery courtyard of this temple to reach the main shrine. This shrine is holy to both Hindus (particularly Vaishnavites) and Buddhists. For many, the pilgrimage to Mukthinath represents the culmination of a lifetime’s dream. I am fortunate to have been here twice. (Click here).
Ente kuli scene! Taking a bath in 108 water sprouts to wash of all my sins.
Around the main temple at Mukthinath are 108 water sprouts. Ice cold water coming from the mountains have been channeled into these water sprouts. Taking a bath in the 108 water sprouts followed by the 2 tanks in the front of the temple is supposed to cleanse all sins. I am determined to take a de-sinning bath. My guide is bemused as I had already erased all bad karma at Tilicho Lake 3 days ago! But I’m a man on a mission. I take the holy bath in the ice cold water flowing from the 108 water sprouts. Then I take a dip and wade across both the tanks in the front of the temple. The water in these tanks are also ice cold. Taking a dip in these 2 tanks is more difficult than walking/running under the water sprouts. But the difficulty pales in comparison to the reward; total elimination of all bad Karma. It’s not that I had committed innumerable immoral, illegal, heinous, despicable or treacherous acts after the holy bath at Tlicho Lake! I have taken 2 holy baths in quick succession at the holiest of holy places. Now, I should be entitled to lifetime pass wherein all sins committed henceforth are not registered into my karmic account.
This new Buddha statue has become a selfie point
The sun is shining brightly and I warm up quickly. I visit the main shrine and offer my respects. A huge statue of Buddha has come up recently in Mukthinhath temple complex. It has become a selfie location. The Jwalamayi temple was also in the final stages of renovation. Inside the Jwalamayi temple, one can see glowing embers beside a small water flow. This place is revered as it is one of the few locations were all the 5 elements (air, water, wind, fire and earth) can be found together.
I walk to go to Samba Goemba (Goemba means monastery) situated the entrance gate, but it’s closed. The shopkeeper (probably a nun) near the temple asks me to open the door and go inside. It is customary to close the door at the end of morning prayers. The devotees who come later are welcome to open the shrine door anytime.
Samba Goemba at Mukthinath
I walk down the new flight of steps leading to Mukthinath temple. Many new buildings/hotels have sprung up at Mukthinath. And quite a few are under construction. Saligram stones are being sold beside the road. The price depends on the size of the saligram. My guide bought a medium sized stone for Nrs 500. We had lunch at one of the newly opened hotels. After a brief rest, I walked to the share taxi stand. Normally, people stop overnight at Jomson. But I plan to stop overnight at Kagbeni. There are no vehicles here today. I wait quite a while. Finally got a cab that had come from Jomsom to drop a passenger at Mukthinath. The cab ride to Kagbeni cost Nrs 1300/-. We check into the ‘Nilgiri View’ hotel by 2 PM
The world famous "Yac Donalds" at Kagbeni
The area from Mukthinath to Jomsom lies in the rain shadow area. Hence, the landscape is very dry. In the evenings, the winds pick up and the air becomes very dusty. By 4 PM, I walked to Kali Gandaki River to collect the holy saligram stones. Even though saligram stones can be purchased, it is believed that the stones picked personally have maximum potency! Due to the heavy rains, the water flow in the river is too strong. I can’t enter the river to pick up stones. Beside Kali Gandaki River is a funeral Ghat. For Hindus, this is funeral Ghat is among the holiest spots for cremating a dead body.
View from my hotel room in Kagbeni
The monastery at Kagbeni should be on everyone’s itinerary. There are two building here. The old structure constructed with mud and wood about 600 years old. On request, one of the monks will open the shrine room for visitors. Even though the building shows its age, the shrine room is still intact. The old monastery is not in use anymore. All worship and rituals happen in the new building. The new monastery is one of the largest in this area. About 75 monks reside here. The kiddie monks residing here, in addition to Buddhism, learn modern subjects like math, science etc. The monastery is totally dependent on donations for its upkeep. The Nrs. 200 entrance fee goes towards the monastery school and upkeep of the old goemba. Donations are always welcome.
Picking up stones from Kali Gandaki river. The holy Saligram stone eludes me
Day 13: Kagbeni (2850 M) – Jomsom (2743 M) – Tatopani (1190 M)
In the morning, I can hear the Buddhist chants from my hotel room. I step and I follow the sounds. A buddhist ceremony was in progress at the nearby house. Listened to the chants for a while. We have to leave early to get to Jomsom on time. I had Tsampa porridge, Tibetan style, for breakfast. It’s a local dish made from barley. By 0715, we start walking. The road follows the river for almost its entirety. There is a very broad section of river beside the road. At this wide stretch of river, the flow is considerably slower. I walk into the river once again hoping to find Saligram stones. I do pick up a few nice stones, but saligram eludes me. Maybe, it’s because I don’t need one. I’m already sin-free.
Walking from Kagbeni to Jomsom
It’s an easy 12 KM trail from Kagbeni to Jomsom. The road descends gradually into Jomsom. The few vehicles plying on the road kick up quite a lot of dust. Before the motarable road between Mukthinath and Jomsom opened up, the trekkers would stop at many places (e.g. for lunch). Many establishments sprung up to cater to the tourists. The economy of small hamlets were heavily on tourism. Nowadays most trekkers hop on a vehicle after Mukthinath. Sadly, once popular destinations like Kagbeni receive very few tourists. I’m at Jomsom by 10 AM. The plan is to take the next bus to Tatopani
A pedestrian suspension bridge near Jomsom
It’s apple harvest season. Marpha, a small hamlet near Jomson is famous for its high quality apples. Shops beside the bus stop are selling plastic bags full of apples. It’s quite cheap and I buy a pack. This also a good location to buy Marpha Apple brandy. It can found only in select stores in Katmandu. We catch the 11AM bus to Tatopani.
Saligram stones for sale. A medium sized stone costs Nrs 500
The bus ride was quite an adventure. After an hour into the journey, the mountains become green. We are no longer in the rain shadow area. It’s raining heavily. The bus ride has suddenly become very adventurous. The mountain is on one side of the road is. And on the other side is a steep fall into the river below. Many sections of the road were nothing but muddy pits. The bus is struggling to find traction and the tyres are freewheeling. In some areas, bus climbs up an incline and slides back. This feels particularly scary. On the second or third attempt, we go over the incline. Sometimes the road is so narrow that I wonder if we can make it across! Then, there are sections the road where it feels like the bus will topple over into the river below. Many close their eyes and hope for the best. Buses falling into the ravine below in monsoon season is not uncommon. A ‘normal’ person cannot drive over these roads. It takes a driver with exceptional courage; particularly knowing that his life and that of 30 passengers depended on his skill. Full of adoration, I look at my bus driver. He’s smoking a cigarette and swaying to the music while hanging on to the steering wheel! It would be better if he practices his DJ skills when he’s not driving over these death defying roads.
Daulagiri Hotel at Tatopani
By 2 PM, I reach at Tatopani. This place has changed beyond recognition from my last visit (Click here).The once quite village today sports a multi storied buildings. I make my way to Daulagiri hotel. Thankfully, it still the same. Tatopani is one of the few places that have benefited from the new road. Most tourists who break the journey to Pokhara prefer to stay overnight at Tatopani. If one is short of time, the night bus from Jomsom to Katmandu is an option. However, having seen the state of the roads and the daredevil bus drivers, I would strongly advice anyone travelling on the night bus to purchase a good life insurance cover.
The word Tatopani means hot water. The hamlet gets its name from the geothermal hot water springs this area is famous for. On can walk down from Daulagiri hotel directly into the entrance of the hot water springs. Here, geothermal hot water has been channeled into a large concrete tank. This water is credited with healing properties. Unlike many other places, the water only has mild smell of H2S gas. There is a small entrance fee to enter this tatopani. I think that the small shop inside the hot water spring sells beer and other alcoholic beverages. The small stones provided beside the hot water tank are meant for rubbing down the body. A hot water bath is exactly what I wanted.
There is a river on the road!
Day 14: Tatopani (1190 M) - Beni - Pokhara
It’s raining very heavily. As per the itinerary, I take the bus to Pokhara. Today is trek free day. But little did I know that nature had other plans for me. After a plate of Tibeten Bread, I board the 0800 bus. By 0845, the bus comes to a halt. There is a river flowing across the road! This was the same area where there was a landslide during my last trip. Lat time I managed to cross this area on the back of a tractor. Today, the water flow is too strong, even for tractors. There are a few more vehicles on our side but none on the other side. This is an ominous sign as it indicates landslides further down. Since the rains are as strong as ever, it’s quite possible that the road may not open today.
Carrying a fellow trekker across a 'muddy puddle'
Since I’m short of time, my guide suggests we leave the bus and follow a path up in the mountain. The bus conductor refunds part of the trip money. There were 4 more foreigners with us in the bus. They decided to follow my guide. A little up the mountain is a small pedestrian suspension bridge. We cross this bridge and continue walking into the other side of the tarmac road. We are the only people on the road. Continued walking further for quite a while in the heavy rain. At one section, the puddle in the road was so deep that we removed our shoes and waded across. We spot a small hotel beside the road and step in. This is a hotel/house rolled into one. The only food available here is boiled egg and chickpeas (kadala) curry! The bottle of Maprha Apple brandy that one of my companions bought at Jomsom did not last beyond this shop!
Rural houses up in the mountains.
The hotel owner pointed to a narrow walking trail that goes back up into the mountain. They asked us to use it to avoid the next landslide. And what a path it turned out to be! My guide has never been on this trail before. He is as lost as we are. We end up walking through the courtyard of houses, paddy fields, waterfalls and even adjacent to pig sty’s. We are experiencing authentic rural Nepal; the real Nepal that travelers never get to see. My backpack is safe from rain as I am wearing a poncho. But my trousers and shoes are soaking wet after walking through knee deep water in the paddy fields. I decided to change my shoes and don my sandals.
The old couple I met
I pass by a small house made of mud. It is better to changes the shoes in a house than in the pouring rain. I follow my guide into the house. An old couple was seated inside. As they speak only Nepali, my guide becomes the translator. The couple are quite puzzled by the sudden arrival of tourists into their house. My guide requested if we could sit down for a while. They are happy to oblige. There is small fire burning in one corner. The old lady was lying down on a cot in the verandah itself. She looks poorly. I change my shoes. When I’m about to leave, the elderly gentleman asked me if I have any cigarettes. But I don’t smoke. I gave the old lady the bag of apples that I had purchased at Jomsom. She accepted it with a smile. When we started walking again, my guide told me that the old couple has fallen on hard times. In Nepal, the elderly receive no support from the state. So, it’s normal for kids to support their parents. The children of this couple had left their village in search of greener pastures. Their kids are not sending them any money. Due to their advanced age and ill health, they are unable to work in the paddy fields. They don’t have any income or savings either. I wonder what will happen to them. Such is Life!
Paddy cultivation in the terraced fields
We continue walking in the rain. By 1230 we reached the main road again. A few vehicles bound for Tatopani are waiting beside a row of shops. They are waiting for the landslide to clear. We order tea and take a much needed break. My guide phoned a jeep from Beni to pick us up. Soon, news reached us that the road between our location and Beni closed down by a fresh landslide!! Now we are trapped between two landslides. We decided to try our luck and start walking to the landslide area. It’s still raining when we start walking again. The scenery along the road is extremely beautiful. I counted about 20 waterfalls in one location alone! We soon reach the landslide area. Stones and mud are still falling on to the road from the top. Thankfully, there is enough space for a person to cross the road. I run across this dangerous area to avoid being felled by the falling stones. We are elated to see the jeep waiting the rendezvous point. The jeep took us to Beni. Then I took the bus to Pokhara. Today turned out to be quite an adventure. The unplanned hike turned out to be among the most memorable ones that I’ve had.
Walking as the road is closed due to landslides!
In the evening, I went to meet my friend who is the owner ‘O2 Bar and Grill’. This nice place beside Pokhara Lake even has a live band every night. Since I have a slight running nose, the manager of the establishment recommended an alcoholic drink called ‘Flaming Hot Punch’. It worked as advertised! I regret not asking him for a potion to cure hangovers.
Day 15: Pokhara - Katmandu
resting beside the Jwalamayi temple at Mukthninath
I have freshly baked cinnamon and apple tarts for breakfast. But my body is craving for Tibetan bread. We take the 0700 bus to Katmandu. Today’s journey is uneventful. I’m in Katmandu by 1600. From Katmandu bus station, I take a local bus to Thamel. I met by guides boss and handeded over his camera. He did not charge me anything for the use of his camera. Thamel is too manic and crowded for my taste Thamel, I took a cab to Boudha. I checked into ‘Lotus Guest House’ at Boudha.
Bridge near Siri Kharga
14 days of the trek got over too soon. It has been an incredible adventure. Saw amazing locales. Crossed Thorongla Pass at 5416 M. Sat in a bus ride scarier that anything an amusement park can offer. I washed away my sins- not once, but twice. However, the impromptu visit to Tilicho Lake has to be the highlight of the trip. I want to go there again….. someday.
Walking to Tilicho Lake
Dal Bhat
However, there is a pinch of sadness in me. The faces of the hapless old couple I met in the mountains yesterday are still vivid in my mind. I decide to visit the monasteries in Boudha. Maybe, I will find an answer there. I sit quietly in the monastery contemplating on Nirvana and beyond. And in a divine moment of extraordinary clarity, I find my calling. All my doubts have vanished. I walk out of the monastery renewed, refreshed and reborn. I have found my purpose in life. I’m finding a hotel that serves Tibetan bread for breakfast.
Prices
This table shows the price of vegetarian Dal Bhat at various locations. This is a good barometer of the prices all other goods along the trail.
Location
Price (Nrs)
This table shows the price of vegetarian Dal Bhat at various
locations.
This is a good barometer of the prices all other goods along the
trail.
Bashishar
500
Chame
600
Upper Pisang
650
Manang
650
Sri Kharka
650
Tilicho base camp
650
Ladher
690
Thorongla High camp
800
Mukthinath
750
Kagbeni
680
Tatopani
475
Shrine of Samba Goemba, Muktinath
Approximate prices in 2022 are as follows. An English speaking guide will charge approx. 2000 NRS (Nepali Rupees) or 20 USD per day. This includes the cost of his food, accommodation etc. Any transport enroute has to be paid by the client. The rates for non-English speaking guides (e.g. French, German, Japanese etc.) are a lot higher. Female guides also command a premium rate. A porter who carries about 15 Kg has to be paid NRS 1600-1800 per day. The all-inclusive rate (guide, food, accommodation but no porter) works out to approx NRS 5000 a day. However, the quotes obtained over email from various companies based in Katmandu had a huge price differences. The highest quote for an all-inclusive trek (without Tilicho base camp) was approximately Indian Rupees (INR) 1.25 lacs.
Beautiful
ReplyDeleteWell described
ReplyDeleteVery nicely written. Beautiful photos!
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