On 18-Aug-2022, I boarded the 2030 flight to Delhi. At the Security check-in I realized that I had forgotten to pack my camera. It’s too late to go back and get it . I called my trekking guide in Katmandu and asked him if I can hire a camera at Katmandu. But camera renting services are not available in Katmandu. Hhe offered to give me his camera in for the trip.
Day 2: Arrival Katmandu
The flight from Delhi to Katmandu takes about 2 Hrs. I’m at Katmandu by 2 PM. I took a cab to Thamel. Thamel is the tourist heartland of Katmandu. The bustling narrow lanes of Thamel have everything a traveler will need. I normally stay at a place called Boudha as Thamel is too crowded for my liking. My guide has his office in Thamel. He recommended that I stay at Thamel. In addition, it’s closer than Boudha to tomorrow’s bus station.
Stuck in a landslide
My guide and his boss met me at the hotel. He handed over his camera for me carry on the trek. I had a paid a small advance to him before arriving in Nepal. In Nepal, it’s customary to pay the full money before starting the trip. I handed over the remaining money to the guide. He will come to pick me up tomorrow morning.
In the evening I went out for a stroll in Thamel. It’s quiet; not as crowded as it used to be. Tourism has not fully recovered after the Covid pandemic. Everyone is hopeful that tourists will start returnwhen by the September travel. I went over to a Tibetan restaurant for dinner. There are numerous trekking shops all over Thamel. I did the last minute purchases for the trek. Purchasing items in Katmandu is much cheaper than anywhere else along the trail. I retire to bed early. The heavy rains are bothering me.
Waterfall near Chyamche
Day 3: Katmandu – Bashishar (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Took the 0645 bus to Bashishar from the Katmandu bus station. The traffic in Katmandu is as horrible as ever. But a new road and tunnel complex is being built with Chinese assistance. Once commissioned, it should shave off quite a bit of journey time.
At 1445 my bus reached its final destination. Bashishar, is the capital of Lajung district. The share jeeps to Chame depart only in the morning. So we have sleep here for the night. We checked into the family run Pushpanjali Hotel. It rained heavily the entire night. (Click here for the Full trek)
Day 4: Bashishar – Chame (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Walking to Upper Pisang
We are schedule to leave on 0730 share jeep to Chame. However, the actual departure has nothing to do with the ‘official’ schedule! The jeep will leave when all the seats are occupied. We start moving by from Bashishar by 0830. In another 15 minutes we are greeted by a landslide. The landslide is cleared and we start moving again by 1030. The journey is quite bumpy and the ‘road’ exists only in a few places.
Upper Pisang Goemba
Stopped for lunch at a small hotel near Chyamche. This hotel must be the contender for the ‘Hotel with the best view’ award, if there is one. (see video). We continue with the journey. At one location, we got off from the jeep and placed stones on the road; just to make it motorable! In the 2021 monsoon, many bridges that were washed away. They have been replaced by rickety wooden ones! It’s best not to think about the rigorous engineering standards to which they are built!
Tilicho Lake
It was quite late when we reached Chame. It normal to take up to 6 hours to traverse 60 KM! We are staying at the family run New Tibet Hotel. Chame was also badly affected by the 2021 floods. Embankments are being built on either side of the river. Even my hotel was almost washed away in the 2021 floods. The river has almost reached the kitchen!
Day 5: Chame – Upper Pisang (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Today, the trek begins in earnest. It’s a clear day! I can see Lamdung Himachal peak (6980 M) from my room. After walking about 1.5 Hrs, we reach by a huge apple farm at Bhratang. With 70,000 dwarf apple plants, this is the largest apple farm in Nepal. These agro industries have been possible only after the roads reached here about 15 years ago. By 1030 we reach the village of Dilkhur Pokhari. After a cup of tea, we continued onward.
Sunrise at Upper Pisang
I decided to stop at Upper Pisang tonight as it has a beautiful monastery. By 1330, I checked into the ‘Hiltop Lodge’. It’s surprisingly big! Thankfully, I’m the only person here today. This is the advantage of trekking in offbeat season. I sit outside my room soaking in the awesome views of Annapurna 2 peak (7937 M). In the evening, I visited the monastery. I joined the monks in the evening prayers. The chants are mesmerizing.
Day 6: Upper Pisang – Manang (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Padmasambhava statue at Monge
My breakfast table has been set outdoors facing Annapurna 2 peak. Talk about breakfast with a view! (See video). To take advantage of the good weather, we start walking by 0700. I am doing the short route: Upper Pisang – Humle – Monge – Manang. At Humle is a disused airstrip. Due to lack of passengers, the airport had to close down. There are new apple plantations along the road. The ecology of the place will never be the same after the new road opened up.
Buckwheat at bloom at Manang
Monge is a small hamlet with a few houses. There is a new statue of Padmasambhava here. After a cup of tea we continue walking. By 12, we reach Manang. I am staying at ‘Himalayan Singhi Gest House’. As expected, I am the only person here! I get the best room in the house. It’s the corner room facing the majestic Gangapurna Glacier. (Click here for the Full trek)
Day 7: Manang (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Sunrise at Manang
Today is high altitude acclimatisation day. Today’s plan is to cross the river and hike up the adjacent mountain. It’s cold and drizzling outside. Armed with a poncho, I set out by 0800. The climb is quite steep, but at least I’m not weighed down by my rucksack. Our destination on the other side of Manane is an oasis of tranquility. From this non-descript spot, the whole of Manang is visible. A few prayer flags are fluttering in the wind beside me. I sit on a rock for a while. Slowly, the clouds began clearing and part of Ganagapurna peak and glacier revealed itself.
Gangapurna Lake with Gangapurna glacier in the background
On the way down, we stop at Gangapurna glacier lake. This is a popular spot for day hikes from Manang, But today I’m alone here. I have finished my trek and reach Manang by 1130. In the ‘town square’ is a small dusty museum that has a collection of a few local exhibits. On sale at the museum is a book about Manang and its nearby areas. The book is a bit dated (and dusty) but I would recommend buying it.
All along the trail, the price of food is controlled by the local “Hotel Management Committee”. Hence the price of food in hotels does not vary a lot between hotels.
The only building at Karche
Day 8: Manang – Siri Kharga (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Today’s plan is to stop at Ladher. After an early breakfast, we start walking at 7. It’s an excellent day. Gangapurna peak, Annapurna 2, Annapurna 3 and Annapurna 4 are visible against the clear blue skies. Adding the scenic beauty are the red buckwheat flowers. Today has been the best day so far!
Treking through landslide area
After walking about 1.5 hrs towards Ladher, I make an impromptu decision to visit Tilocho Lake. Taking a bath in Tilicho Lake is certified to wash off ones sins. I’m sure I don’t have many sins as I had washed them away last year at Manimahesh (Click here) and Manikaran (Click here). Yet, don’t want to miss this golden an opportunity! My guide is surprised at my decision. I had factored in 2 extra days in my itinerary for possible delays due to inclement weather and landslides. Hence, I have time to visit Tilicho Lake and return to Katmandu in the nick of time. But the trail to Tilicho Lake diverts at Manang. We are on the wrong path. However, there is another long and difficult trail. Nothing is going to stop me for washing away my bad Karma. Tilicho Lake, here I come!!
By 1030, we reach Kharche. The city of Karche boasts of 1 building; a trekker’s lodge. While returning, the trail to ThorongLa will once again pass through Karche. So we keep some stuff in this hotel to be collected on our return. The trail beyond Karche is quite steep. My guide decides to use a relatively obscure unused path. We are walking through dense bushes and marshy terrain. I’m not sure if my guide is lost, but I follow him!
We notice a cave decorated with prayer flags. A steep narrow flight of steps leads to the entrance of this cave. My guide too has also never been to cave before. I climb to the entrance of the cave. The view of the valley below from the cave entrance is truly spectacular. Inside the cave is a small black statue of Padmasambhava (I think). We finally reach Sri Kharga by 2 PM. Today’s hike lasted about 7 hours. It was the most difficult day so far.
Day 9: Siri Kharga – Tilicho Base camp (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Started walking by 0730. The scenery is excellent. Part of the trail passes through slippery and dangerous landslide areas. In winter months, these areas receive heavy snowfall. The trek to Tilicho Lake does not happen in winter months because crossing this landslide area becomes impossible.
The magnificent Tilicho lake
I am at Tilicho base camp by 1100. Post noon, Tilicho Lake becomes very windy. So it’s not advisable to go to there now. I relax for rest of the day. (Click here for the Full trek)
Day 10: Tilicho Base camp – Tilicho Lake – Siri Kharga (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Today’s plan is to get to Tilicho Lake before the winds pick up. After an early breakfast, I started walking by 0530. The trail ascends steeply for about 2.5 Hrs. Then it’s on a relatively flat terrain. By 8, most of the clouds have cleared up. The walk is quite beautiful. By 0930, I have reached Tilicho lake. I’m the only person here.
Bathing in ice cold lake to wash off my sins
Tilicho Lake has to be among the most beautiful places that I have ever visited. The location is straight out of a fairy tale. No picture can ever do justice to this exquisite location. There are 2 statues beside the lake; one of Buddha and the other of Shiva. (See Video) Standing beside the lake, I spot a few small avalanches on the adjacent ice-capped mountains.
Most people view the lake from the vantage point and return. But I’m here to take a de-sinning bath. The water is ice cold; that’s to be expected when one bank of the lake touches a glacier! Taking a dip/swim is not possible and my guide warns me against it. I first washed my face. Then, I removed my shirt, and sprinkled water on myself. My karmic account has been reset to zero. I feel light and elated. Or maybe that’s due to the cold! My guide tells me to put my jacket on immediately. I don’t think he wants me to die beside the lake and go straight to heaven
The path to Tilicho Lake
We walk back down Tilicho base camp. After a cup of tea, we decided to move onwards to Siri Kharga. By 1420. We reach our destination. Today was a good day. After dinner, I retire early to bed. I’m still drunk in the intoxicating beauty of the Tilicho Lake. Missing it would have been a real shame. Someone up there wanted me to get rid of all my bad sins real bad.!!!
Quite a few wooden bridges to be crossed
Day 11: Siri Kharga – Karche – Yak Kharga – Lether (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Woke up to a miserable foggy day. The overnight rains have not yet stopped. On the way up here, we had left some of our belongings at the hotel at Karche. The owner would not take money from us for doing this favour. So we decided to have breakfast there so as to give him some business. We start hiking by 0615. It was raining the entire time.
The only house at Karche beside the suspension bridge
Beyond Karche, the trail becomes easier. By 1100, I’m at Yak Kharga. I had a hot cup of tea at one of the many trekker’s lodges here. Most people stop here for the night, but we push along. At 1205, I’m at Lether. All of today’s walk was in the cold damp miserable rain. My umbrella and poncho proved their mettle today! The mountain views were totally obscured by the clouds and rain. I feel sorry for the people hiking to Tilicho Lake today.
Landslide area between Ladher and Phedi
Leather is situated well above the tree line. Even wood for cooking or heating has to be carried up here on horseback. The caretaker of the place told me that this trekkers lodge remains opens all year around; even in winters when it the mercury drops to -20 C.
Day 12: Ladher – Phedi – Thorongla High Camp (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Himalayan blue sheep
Started hiking by 0715. Today’s trail is well above 4200 M. The high altitude scenery of the Himalayas is exquisite. Numerous waterfalls on the mountains add to the beauty. Many of these waterfalls pop up only during the monsoon season. This is one of the advantages of hiking in the monsoon season. By 0930, I am at Phedi. There is a trekker’s lodge here. However, Ladher and Yak Kharga are more popular night halts than Phedi.
A flock of Himalayan Blue Sheep grazing not too far away. These animals live only in the cold high altitude mountains. Spotting these relatively shy animals is quite a treat. The ascend from Phedi to High Camp is extremely steep. This section has the reputation of being the most difficult trail in the entire trek. After an exhausting walk, I’m at ‘High Camp’’ by 1100.
My room at Thorongla High Camp
Thorongla High Camp is situated at an altitude of 4850 M. To put it in perspective, Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Europe only has an altitude of 4805 M! This is also the most remote lodge on the entire trail. And the coldest. In winter it temperatures drop below -30C. Yet it remains open all year around. The rooms here are basic; without heating or electricity. Extra blankets can be hired for an additional fee. All of us are huddled around this heater in the dining room.
Walking to Thorongla pass
I am suffering from mild dysentery and begin self-medication. There are only 2 toilets at this lodge. Finding an empty toilet when this place is booked full can be challenge in itself! The toilet is constructed away from the residential area. That means I have to go out in the ice cold rain every time I have a bout of diarrhea! Outside the toilet is a 200 L plastic drum that is filled with freezing cold water. To use the toilet, one has to take water from this big drum into the toilet in a small metal container provided for the purpose. If that wasn’t exciting enough, the toilet has no windows or electric lights. It’s pitch dark inside. Bring-your-own-light is the mantra using for the toilet! Multiple times today, I have scientifically proven that the 3 most important items in a trekkers backpack are medicines, a charged flashlight and toilet paper!
It’s still drizzling and most of us are pessimistic about tomorrow’s weather. However, the owner of the lodge assures me that tomorrow will be a good day. After an early dinner, I retire to my room. At these high altitudes, many find it difficult to sleep. Weird dreams are also common. Some dabble with pharmaceuticals and/or weed. Each to his own!
At Thorongla pass. It's the highest point on the trek
Day 13: Thorongla High Camp – Thorongla Pass – Phedi – Mukthinath – Kagbeni (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Like most high altitude locations, Thorongla pass becomes quite windy by noon. I finish my breakfast by 0430 and leave by 0450. After Thorongla High Camp, the only place of shelter/rest is Phedi. So one is out in the open for almost 5 hours. In Oct -2014, this part of the trail was hit by a severe blizzard. Without shelter, about 30 trekkers perished on that fateful day. The dangers of high altitude treks should never be forgotten.
Thankfully, today a clear day. A snow blizzard is the last thing on my mind. My immediate worry is finding a path in the pitch darkness. By the illumination provided by flashlghts, we go up the mountain. The ascend to the peak is not very steep, but the lack of oxygen at these high altitudes makes it difficult.
Monastery run by nuns at Mukthinath. Not sure what its called
I’m at Thorongla Pass by 0700. At 5416 M, this is the highest point of the trek. Mission accomplished. But the mountains are obscured by clouds. I take a few pictures. And then we start walking down by 0730. From here, it’s an unforgiving steep descent. After a cup of coffee at Phedi, we are on our feet again. I reach Mukthinath by 1100. That’s a brutal descend of approx. 1600 M in about 3.5 Hrs.
Ente kuli scene. Bathing in 108 sprouts to remove my sins
The first stop at Mukthinath was a relatively new Buddhist temple run by nuns. Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of this monastery. I went to the prayer room and offered my respects. Then I walked down to the main shrine. This shrine is holy to both Hindus (particularly Vaishnavites) and Buddhists. For many, the pilgrimage to Mukthinath represents the culmination of a lifetime’s dream. I am fortunate to have been here twice. (Click here).
Main shrine at Mukthinath
Around the main temple at Mukthinath are 108 water sprouts. Ice cold water coming from the mountains have been channeled into these water sprouts. Taking a bath in the 108 water sprouts followed by the 2 tanks in the front of the temple is supposed to cleanse all sins. I decided to take a holy bath. My guide is bemused as I had already erased all bad karma at Tilicho Lake 3 days ago! But I’m a man on a mission. I do another round of de-sining bath. I have taken 2 holy baths in quick succession at the holiest of holy places. I should be entitled to lifetime pass wherein all sins committed henceforth will not be registered in my karmic account.
Inside Samba Goemba at Mukthinath
I visit the main shrine and offer my respects. A huge statue of Buddha has come up recently in Mukthinhath temple complex. Inside the Jwalamayi temple, one can see glowing embers beside a small water flow. This place is revered as its one of the few places were all the 5 elements (air, water, wind, fire and earth) can be found together. The final stop in Mukthinath temple complex was at Samba Goemba (Goemba means monastery)
Saligram stones for sale
Many new buildings and hotels have sprung up at Mukthinath. Saligram stones are being sold beside the road. The price depends on the size of the saligram. My guide bought a medium sized stone for Nrs 500. We had lunch at one of the newly opened hotels. After a long wait, we got a cab to Jomsom. We check into the ‘Nilgiri View’ hotel at Jomsom by 2 PM.
In the evening, I walked to Kali Gandaki River to collect the holy saligram stones. Even though saligram stones can be purchased, it is believed that the stones picked personally have maximum potency! Due to the heavy rains, the water flow in the river is too strong. I can’t enter the river to pick up stones. Beside Kali Gandaki River is a funeral Ghat. For Hindus, this cremation ghat is among the holiest. The monastery at Kagbeni should be on everyone’s itinerary. The old monastery building is about 600 years old.
Village of Kagbeni
Day 14: Kagbeni – Jomsom – Tatopani (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
I had Tibetan style Tsampa porridge for breakfast. It’s a local dish made from barley. By 0715, we start walking. The plan is to take the bus to from Jomsom to Tatopani. At this wide stretch of river beside the road, I try once again to find Saligram stones. I do pick up a few nice stones, but saligram eludes me. Maybe, it’s because I don’t need one. I’m already sin-free!
Pedestrian bridge between Jomsom and Mukthinath
It’s an easy 12 KM walk from Kagbeni to Jomsom. The few vehicles plying on the road kick up quite a lot of dust. I’m at Jomsom by 10 AM. Shops beside the bus stop are selling plastic bags full of locally grown apples. This also a good location to buy Marpha Apple brandy. We catch the 11AM bus to Tatopani.
Picked up stones from Kali Gandaki river. Saligram eludes me.
The bus ride was quite an adventure. The road at some sections is nothing more than a large muddy pit. The bus is struggling to find traction and the tyres are freewheeling. In some areas, bus climbs up an incline and slides back. This feels particularly scary. On the second or third attempt, we go over the incline. Sometimes the road is so narrow that I wonder if we can make it across! Then, there are sections the road where it feels like the bus will topple over into the river below. Many close their eyes and hope for the best. Buses falling into the ravine below in monsoon season is not uncommon.
Daulagiri hotel at Tatopani
By 2 PM, I reach at Tatopani. This place has changed beyond recognition from my last visit (click here). Thankfully the Daulagiri hotel, it still the same. The word Tatopani means hot water. One can walk down from Daulagiri hotel directly into the hot water springs. The small stones provided beside the hot water spring are meant for rubbing down the body. A hot water bath after a long trek is exactly is exactly what I wanted.
Day 15: Tatopani – Pokhara (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
There is a river across the road
It’s raining very heavily. Today we take the 0800 bus to Pokhara. By 0845, the bus comes to a halt. There is a river flowing across the road! There are a few more vehicles on our side but none on the other side. This is an ominous sign as it indicates landslides further down. Since the rains are as strong as ever, it’s quite possible that the road may not open today.
Helping a fellow trekker cross ;muddy puddles'
Since I’m short of time, my guide suggests we leave the bus and follow a path up the mountain. The bus conductor refunds part of the trip money. 4 more foreigners on the bus decided to follow my guide. A little up the mountain is a small pedestrian suspension bridge. We cross this bridge and continue reached the other side of the tarmac road. Continued walking further for quite a while in the heavy rain. We spot a small hotel beside the road. The only food available here is boiled egg and chickpeas (kadala) curry! A bottle of Marpha apple brandy brought from Jomsom did not last beyond this shop!
Terraced paddy fields up in the mountains
We use a narrow walking trail that goes up into the mountain to avoid the next landslide. My guide has never been on this trail before. He is as lost as we are. We end up walking through the courtyard of houses, knee deep water in paddy fields, waterfalls and even adjacent to pig sty’s. We are experiencing authentic rural Nepal; the real Nepal that travelers never get to see.
We continue walking in the heavy rain. By 1230 we reached the main road again. A few vehicles bound for Tatopani are waiting beside a row of shops. We order tea and take a much needed break. My guide called a jeep from Beni to pick us up. Soon, we get news that the road between us and Beni has been closed down by a fresh landslide! We are now trapped between 2 landslides. Without an alternative, we decided walk to the landslide area. The scenery along the road is extremely beautiful. We reach the landslide area. Stones and mud are still falling from the mountain top. Thankfully, there is enough space for a person to get cross the landslide. I run across this dangerous area to avoid being felled by the falling stones. We are elated to see the jeep waiting the rendezvous point. The jeep took us to Beni. Then I took a bus to Pokhara.
Walking in the rain as road is closed due to landslides
Today turned out to be quite an adventure. Today’s unplanned hike turned out to be among the most memorable ones that I’ve had. In the evening, I went to meet my friend who is the owner O2 bar and Grill, lakeside Pokhara. Since I have a slight running nose, the manager of the establishment recommended an alcoholic drink called ‘Flaming hot punch’. It worked as advertised. I regret not asking him for a potion to cure hangovers!
Day 16: Pokhara – Katmandu (Tilicho Lake and Thorongla Pass Trek)
Buckwheat in bloom at Manang
I take the 0700 bus to Katmandu. After an uneventful journey, I’m in Katmandu by 1600. I meet my guide’s boss at Thamel and handed over his camera. Thamel is too crowded for my taste. I check into ‘Lotus Guest House’ at Boudha. (Click here for full trek)
The trek is over. It was an incredible adventure. Saw amazing locales. Crossed Thorongla Pass at 5416 M. Sat in a bus ride scarier that anything an amusement park can offer. I washed away my sins- not once, but twice. However, the impromptu visit to amazing Tilicho Lake has to be the highlight of the trek.
Day 17: Katmandu
Pottery Square, Bhaktapur
Today is 03-Sep-23. Washed my clothes in the morning. Went to pick up the kid from the airport at noon.
Day 18: Katmandu – Bhaktapur – Katmandu
Today, I visit Bhaktapur. It is the old capital of Nepal. I have to change 2 buses to get there. On the first bus, the conductor did not return the full change after collecting the fare. I was unaware of this as printed tickets are never provided on buses. The passenger sitting next to me realized what was happening and got into a heated argument with the conductor. He made sure that I got back my full change. I have heard accounts of foreigners being overcharged in buses and taxis. This has to be the only blot in an otherwise tourist friendly nation.
Bhaktapur square
The walled city of Bhaktapur is quite large. The old city is not just for tourists; it’s a thriving residential area. It has many durbars or square/plazas. At the pottery square, earthen pots were being sun dried. Look out for the small shops selling authentic hand carved wooden handicrafts. The buildings in the main square are very impressive. Make sure to visit the museum. It was evening when I returned to Boudha. I purchased tomorrow’s bus tickets to Pokhara (NRs 1000/-)
Sculpture at Bhaktapur
Day 19: Katmandu – Pokhara
I took the 0700 bus to Pokhara. This bus picks up passengers from Boudha gate. The traffic is terrible, especially when departing Katmandu. Reached Pokhara by 1530. Checked into the Yeti Hotel on #16 street. This family run place beside the lake has a large courtyard and verandah.
In the evening, I met up with my friend, the owner of O2 Bar and Grill. He suggested that join him for authentic Nepali cuisine. I had stayed at ‘Nepalaya Eco Hostel and Chulo’ on my last trip to Pokhara. Due to Covid pandemic, this hostel had to be shut down. To stay afloat, the large backyard was converted into a small restaurant. It’s here that I met my friend. Cooking here is done by a husband and wife team. The bbq pork and buffalo that my friend recommended was quite delightful. Clients have slowly started returning to the backpackers hostel. I hope that they don’t close down this restaurant once the hostel is running in full swing.
Day 20: Pokhara
Intrepid traveller on Poobhill trek
Slack day. Went for a walk about town. I found a guide who will accompany us for Poonhill trek tomorrow. I gave him all the documentation to prepare the necessary trekking permits. In the evening, I went for a walk around the lake. Took a row boat and visited to the temple in the lake.
I met a family friend for dinner. We chose to meet at a lakeside restaurant located towards the edge of town. This upmarket restaurant caters to a predominantly Nepali clientele. The live band was belting out Nepali songs. The food was quite nice. It’s a bit disappointing that the bar doesn’t have any local brands including Marpha apple Brandy. They do have a large selection of imported liquors.
Scenery from Poonhill trek.
Day 21: Pokhara – Nayapool – Ulleri (Poonhill trek)
Today I start the 4 day Poonhill trek. This trek is famous for the incredible views of the snowcapped Annapurna mountains. It’s raining heavily, but I decided to go anyway. It’s the 7 years old’s first serious trek. She has been to Dzokou valley, but I guess that doesn’t count (Click here for Dzokou valley). The guide picked us up from hotel 0800. From the bus station, we took the bus to Nayapool. At 10 , I’m at Nayapool.
The trek starts in earnest from Nayapool. Thankfully, by now the rains have reduced. Leeches are a constant menace. Stopped for lunch (Rs 450/-) at a small wooden hotel at Ramghai. After a brief halt, I resumed walking again by 1 PM. After a short while, the kid told me that she is tired. Managed to find a jeep and it took us until the village of Tikedunga. The road beyond this village is blocked due to a landslide.
Wild flowers in bloom
Beyond Tikedunga, is a narrow walking trail. The trail from Tikedunga to Ulleri is the hardest part of the entire trek. It’s 5 PM when I reached Ulleri. By now, the 7 year old is tired, but in a happy mood. (Click here for full Poonhill trek)
Day 22: Ulleri – Ghorepani (Poonhill trek)
Carrying the intrepid traveler over flowing water on the trail
It’s a clear day. The snow-capped mountains are clearly visible from my room. After breakfast, we start walking by 8. There are numerous waterfalls along the path. It makes for a gorgeous walk. By noon, It has become very cloudy and foggy. The sun has disappeared. We reached the ‘Moonlight Hotel’ at Upper Ghorepani by 1400 Hrs. In about 15 min, it began raining heavily. We had luckily arrived in the nick of time before the heavens opened up.
Poonhill is a 45-60 min uphill hike from Ghorepani. The incredible views of Annapurna Range from Poonhill are supposed to be the highlight of this trek. Sadly, it’s foggy and raining heavily. Trekking to Poonhill is out of the question. By 0900, the rains reduce and I decide to move on.
The terrain is wet and marshy due to the heavy rains. Many places the trail has transformed into a small brook! The kids shoes are not waterproof. I am carrying her over these wet areas. Even today, leaches are biting us. In short, it’s a horrible day to be out trekking!
We pass Deurali and Banthati, but we do not halt there. By 1600 we arrive at the ‘Himalaya Tourist Guest House’ at Tadapni. The entire trek today was in the cold miserable rain. The trek is taking a lot more time than normal. I’m impressed with the kids stamina and walking pace. It’s the self-propelled heavy artillery that’s slowing us down.
Poonhill trek
Day 24: Tadapani – Gandruk – Kimchi Bazaar – Chowli Bazar – Nayapool – Pokhara (Poonhill trek)
A house with a view
It’s raining heavily. Thick fog is obscuring everything. As we wait, a couple of trekkers came over and congratulated the 7 year old. After all, she’s the only kid doing the trek! At 0830 the rains ease-off and I decide to leave. Today’s plan is to walk to up to Gandruk and get a bus from there to Pokhara.
The trail is quite beautiful. It generally follows the stream flowing downhill. There are innumerable waterfalls all around. By noon we reach Gandruk. But the bus service from Gandruk has been suspended due to landslides (How predictable!). So, I decided to walk further down and catch a bus from beyond the landslide area.
Poonhill Trek
Beyond Gandruk, the trail descents quite steeply. We stopped at a small village called Kimche Bazar for lunch. 1ts’s 1545 when we reached Chowli Bazar. But the last bus had already departed. The next bus leaves only tomorrow. As there are no hotels at Chowli Bazar, we have to keep moving ahead. But first, we have to cross this river that’s flowing across on the road! The bridge that stood here was washed away a few years ago. Crossing this turned to be quite an adventure. After walking for about 30 min we found a jeep beside the road. This jeep dropped us at Nayapool. Buses ply frequently between Pokhara and Nayapool. Its night when I get back to Pokhara. I am back at the Yeti Hotel.
Terraced paddy fields near Gandruk
The kid was not happy about the leech bites. But the heavy rains and cold weather have not dented her spirit. She is playing around as if the 4 days trek was nothing more than child’s play! I hope this will be the first among many trails. Wishing her the best! (Click here for full Poonhill trek)
Drying corn on the roof of the house
I went back to ‘Nepalaya Eco Hostel and Chulo’. We are the only people here today. Me and the kid play football and badminton in the hotel backyard. We are joined by the caretaker, his daughter and their cute dog.
Day 25: Pokhara
Slack day. Did nothing much all day! While walking around Pokhara today, I ran into our friends from the Poonhill trek. Later, they joined us for dinner at O2 bar and grill.
Bandipur city centre
Day 26: Pokhara – Dhumre- Bandipur
I had forgotten my umbrella at O2 bar and grill last night. I had to wait until 11 to pick it up. After retrieving it, I took a cab to Prithvi Chowk. Dhumre is a major stop on the Pokhara-Katmandu road. Buses ply frequently between Prithvi Chowk and Dhumre. The bus journey to Dhumre took about 3 Hrs. With us in the bus was a Polish-Malaysian couple. Together, we took a cab to Bandipur (Rs. 800) from Dhumre. I checked into the family run Aagaman hotel. A new cable car between Dhumre and Bandipur is under construction. It’s has not yet opened.
House in Bandipur
Bandipur is quite cool compared to Dhumre. The owner of Aagaman hotel was sitting outside the hotel nursing his fractured leg. He is very happy to talk and we become friends. He worked many years abroad before returning to Nepal. It was quite by chance that he visited Bandipur. He fell in love with the place and relocated to Bandipur for good. As with many Nepalese, he was investing a lot of money to send his kids abroad. Many see this as the best way forward for their kids.
The main attraction here is the largest cave in Asia called Siddha Gufa. I ask the hotel owner for directions to the cave. He told me that trail to the cave in monsoon season will be very slippery and dangerous. However, he suggested that I use the shorter route from Dhumre!
Thani Mai temple, BAndipur
The town center of Bandipur is also quiet a charming place. The buildings have a sort of European charm to it. It’s a quiet place, for now. It may get busy once the tourists return. There are a few shops that cater to tourists.
It’s a foggy day. But I decided to visit the Thai Mai temple that is situated in the hillock above Bandipur. My landlord told me that the Goddess Thai Mai is supposed to be the sister of the deity in Katmandu temple.
Inside Siddha Gufa
I start walking up by about 0730. The walk to the top is quite scenic. It takes about 30 min to reach the temple. When I got there, Thai Mai temple was closed. It’s quite a small temple and there is nothing architecturally great about this building. But it has the best views in Bandipur. When I was walking up, I ran into the Polish-Malaysian couple again. We decided to hire a cab together to visit Siddha Guffa.
Took a cab stopped at the main road, a short distance away from Dhumre. There is a sign post for Siddha Gufa here. The pedestrian passage passes between 2 very small shops. We left our heavy backpacks there before starting the climb to the cave. The steep ascend to the entrance of the cave took about 1.5 Hrs. Tickets (Rs 150) have to be purchased from the counter beside the cave entrance. A guide always comes with a group of tourists. The large cave is quite impressive, but it’s not too long. There is even a small lake within the cave. The floor of the cave is wet and slippery. At the end of the cave is a very steep descent into a large cavern. I decided not to go down.
These boys posed for me outside Gorkha Museum
After visiting the cave, I walked back to the main road and collected our bags. Today’s plan is to halt at Lamjung. But news has reached us that the road to Lamjung has been blocked by a landslide! So we decide to go to Khairani instead. From Khairani it’s another bus ride to Gorkha. We check into the Gorkha Biasuni hotel.
Day 28: Gorkha - Kathmandu
Erotic sculpture at Gorkha Darbar walls
It’s a foggy day. Me and my polish friend started walking to the Devi temple and Durbar by 7 AM. It is located on the mountain peak overlooking Gorkha town. The beautiful walk to the temple takes about 45 minutes. The temple is undergoing renovation. The temple deity had been shifted to a small room and placed behind a small red curtain. Only Hindu’s can enter the room where the deity has been re-located. Lifting the curtain to look at the deity is not permitted. In the temple kitchen, the priests were preparing offerings over a large wooden fire. The offering is deep fried sweet ball with a hard exterior. (See photo below) I don’t know what it’s called. They happily hand over a few to me. On the exterior walls of Devi temple are intricate carvings. Look out for the erotic carvings among them. There are only a few people at the temple today. We are missing the views from the temple as it’s foggy. On the way down, we get lost. We accidently end up at a small but beautiful temple called Ganesh Than. We are the only people here. After taking a few photographs, we continue descending towards Gorkha.
Ganesh Than temple near Gorkha Darbar
The Gorkha museum was the next destination. It to opens at 1030. It’s a big rectangular building with a large inner courtyard. A couple of schoolboys came up to me and requested me to take their group photo. I promise to send them the pics on e-mail or whatsapp, but they didn’t have either. The museum is quite large and worth visiting. Here too are a few erotic carvings on the exterior walls. There are 3 ancient temples on the main road beside the museum, but it was closed when I got there.
Buses and mini vans ply regularly from Ghorkha to Kathmandu. Mini vans are faster but a bit more expensive. Tickets can be purchased in advance from the departure point at the
Offerings being made at the Gorkga Darbar kitchen
main market. I took the 1300 minivan to Kathmandu. By 0730 PM, I am back at the ‘Lotus Guest House’ at Boudha.
Day 29: Kathmandu
It’s a slack day. In the morning, I circumambulated the stupa. Then I went to the monastery at Boudha. I sat in the back row along with the monks and joined in their morning prayers. It rained for most of the day. There is a small shop outside Boudha main gate that sells bus tickets. I purchased bus tickets to Dharan.
Day 30: Kathmandu – Itahari - Dharan
Lighting yak butter lamps at monastery at Boudha
The kid and me reached the Buddhist monastery by 0615 in the morning. We are the only non-monks in the prayer room today. Together, we sat in the back pews and attended morning prayers. Yak butter lamps are common offerings at Nepalese and Tibetan monasteries. They can be lit for wishes requested or favors granted. On the previous day, I had asked my friends / family if they wanted me to light any lamps for them on their behalf. After the morning prayers, we lit about 30 yak butter lamps!
Today we catch the bus to 1330 Dharan. The bus will pick us up from the shop were we purchased the tickets. It was 1430 when a minivan arrived and took us to the ‘bus station’. The term ‘bus station’ is a misnomer. There are many buses parked on very muddy approach road. The board on my bus says Kakarbita. Kakarbita is the road crossing between India and Nepal. It is in the general direction of Dharan, but I’m doubtful if it will go there. The conductor of the bus assures me that the bus goes to Dharan. The bus departed at 1545 from Katmandu.
Dubba Subba temple, Dharan
Day 31: Itahari - Dharan
My morning, the mountains are behind us. The bus stopped at a small town beside the road. The conductor came to my seat and asked to get off the bus here! Contrary to yesterday’s words, he said that bus doesn’t go to Dharan. I took my bags and stepped down from the bus. The conductor gave me Rs 150/- and the bus sped away! I am at the town called Itihari. It is a major intersection on the Kakarbita – Kathmandu highway. There are quite a few shops beside the main road. But, at 0645 in the morning, the place is virtually deserted. A passing rickshaw came over to me. I ask him for directions. He dropped us at the bus stop to Dharan. It’s drizzling. We are standing under the overhang of shop to stay dry.
Pandeshwar Dham, Dharan
As I wait for the bus, the shop-keeper tells me that there will be fewer buses today; it’s Vishwakarma day. In Hindu mythology, Vishwakarma, is the engineer and architect to the Gods. On his birthday (i.e. Vishwakarma day) tradesmen pray for good luck and fortune. Many establishments stay closed today. After waiting for about 45 min, a bus arrived. It was decked up for Vishwakarma day. The road to Dharan makes for a very bumpy ride. We pass by a temple beside the road. Many vehicles (cars, tractors etc) were parked beside the temple and decorated for Vishwakarma day. The bus dropped us at Draran main square. The bus ride took about 30 min. Took a rickshaw to ‘New Dreamland Hotel and Lodge’.
Danta Kali temple- The tooth of Goddess Sati is believed to have fallen here.
Dharan is not on the tourist map of most travelers. There isn’t much for a tourist in Dharan. Its claim to fame is the Danta Kali temple. The legend of this temple is quite interesting. Here is the story in a nutshell. Goddess Sati is married to Lord Shiva. The Goddess commits suicide after her father insults Lord Shiva. Shiva, the lord of destruction, gets upset and sets course to destroy the world. To pacify Shiva, the Gods cut up Sati’s body and throws the chopped up body parts ‘overboard’ from heaven. The locations where these body parts fell on earth become sacred spots called as Shakti Peetams. The tooth of goddess Sati is believed to have fallen at Dharan where Danta Kali temple is situated. Incidentally, the Yoni of the Goddess fell in Kamakhya (See day 36 & 37). Hence, these temples are revered as Shakti Peetams.
By about 1030, we hired a rickshaw and went to Danta Kali temple. It’s a small temple and we are the only people here. The temple was closed, but the shopkeeper in the adjacent store told me that the temple will open soon. In about 20 min, the priest arrived and opened the temple for us. The priest is very friendly and we try to talk. However, my lack of Nepali language is a big impediment. He showed me the golden box containing Devi’s tooth. It is black in colour and looks like a row of jagged stones! This is why the temple gets its name- Danta Kali; It literally translates to black teeth. Unfortunately photographing the tooth is not allowed.
After this I visited 2 other temples called Dubbasubba and Pandeshwar Dham. I’m not aware of the religious significance of these temples. There are a few people here at these 2 temples as it is Vishwakarma day. Went to town center and had lunch. Checked out timings for tomorrow’s bus service.
Day 32: Dharan – Birtamoor - Illam
Mai Pokhara Lake
The buses depart from Dharan city Centre. I boarded the 0900 Hrs ‘fast’ bus to Birtamoor. At Birtamoor, a person came into the bus and asked if anyone is travelling to Illam. I got off the bus and followed him to his vehicle. He turned out to be the driver of a share jeep. Only the back row seats in the jeep are available. The seats are congested, but I don’t have a choice. The jeep was packed full of goods. On the roof are about 10 kids tricycles. My luggage also goes on the roof. The driver waits for us to have lunch. Then we set off for Illam.
Illam covered with fog
The drive to Illam is very beautiful. There is a popular tourist spot before Illam but I don’t know what it’s called. Since it’s foggy, I’m missing a lot of the views. It’s 1600 when we reach Illam. I make my way to the ‘Hotel Green View’. The hotel has 2 separate buildings. The main hotel is new building with a glass façade. The old building located very close to the new one. The rooms in the old building are clean and at NRs 1000, its value for money. The view from the forward facing room of the old building is better than from the modern building. Illam is famous for it’s tea gardens. Outside the hotel is a small shop that exclusively sells various types of teas.
Mai Pokhari Lake
Day 33: Illam – Mai Pokhari - Illam
I hired a cab to visit the lake called Mai Pokhari. Even though it’s only 15 KM away from Illam, the drive takes about an hour. Reaching Mai Pokhari by public transport is very difficult. The round trip on a private vehicle cost me Nrs 4000. The road was in such terrible state of disrepair that I’m surprised that a cab agreed to come here. At the entrance to the lake is a small shop. New buildings were coming up beside it. Basic accommodation is available Mai Pokhari. My driver told me that all the buildings in Mai Pokhari had burned down in a fire recently. The new constructions happening are replacements for those lost in the fire.
Moss covered steps at Mai Pokhari Lake
Mai Pokhari Lake is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists. The lake and its adjacent areas are protected areas. This has preserved the lake and it’s adjoining areas in pristine condition. The lush green vegetation is complemented by a velvety green carpet of moss. The lake is reasonably large with lots of fish in it. Fishing is prohibited here. To the contrary, feeding the fish in this lake is considered as a holy act. There is a ‘moss garden’ beside the lake, but it pales in comparison to the natural moss vegetation growing outside. On the way back to Illam, my driver told me that a human corpse was found in the lake about 5 years ago. After this, the lake mysteriously went dry! Buddhist monks were called to offer prayers and offerings at the lake. In about a month, the lake filled up again. This affirmed the belief that the lake is indeed sacred.
Mai Pokhari Lake
By 1 PM, I’m back in Illam. I stopped at the privately owned watchtower at Illam. (Nrs 100). It’s cloudy and views are muted. Walked back to the hotel. In the evening, I went to the town Centre. It’s a small place with a few shops.
Day 34: Illam – Charali – Kakarbhitta – New Jalpaiguri (NJP)
There are 2 routes to NJP from Illam. One option is to go to NJP via Darjeeling. The second option is to use the border crossing at Kakarbhitta. Both routes take approximately the same time. Since both involve crossing the international border, I decided to use the larger crossing point at Kakarbhitta.
Mai Pokhari Lake
As usual, it’s a foggy day. At least, it’s not raining. I had booked seats on the 0900 share jeep to Charali. By 0915, the jeep picked us up from the hotel and returned to the main square! The departure timings on these share jeeps are a bit fluid. They leave when it’s full. When we finally departed Illam, it was 1015 AM. From Charali, I hoped on a bus to Kakarbhitta. The border town of Kakarbitta is divided into Indian and Nepali side by the Mechi River. The mid-border point of the bridge across this river is the international boundary..
Sunrise over Gorkha town
It’s an open border for Indian and Nepalese citizens. Passport is not mandatory, but I think that one has to carry an ID. For other nationals, international travel rules apply. Since I had flown into Katmandu, my passport had been stamped at the immigration desk. Now, I have to get an exit stamp from Nepal and entry stamp from India. From Kakarbhitta bus station, I took an e-auto to the Nepali immigration office. The rickshaw waited at the immigration office while I finished the formalities. The immigration building quite large. There is only one more person here besides me. The process is quick and painless. Then the auto took me to the international bridge. Rickshaws from Nepal are not allowed to cross into India and vice versa. The Nepali rickshaw dropped me off at the middle of the bridge. I took an Indian auto from the bridge and went over to the Indian border. One has to get off the vehicle and walk past the customs officers on the Indian side. The customs officer saw me and asked me to put the bags in the X-ray machine. Yet, he was letting other people with huge bags pass by without X-ray checks! I have a pleasant conversation with the customs officer. He tells me to proceed to the immigration office.
Building at Bhaktapur
The rickshaw took me to the Indian immigration office. It’s an old building housed in a large compound. I’m the only person the here. The guard on duty tells me that immigration officer will be back in 30 minutes. I wait in the courtyard. After about 20 minutes a peon came over and asked me to get photocopies of my passport! Thankfully, a small shop outside the immigration office does photocopies. The immigration officer arrived after 15 min. Finally my passport has been stamped by Indian immigration. It’s a letdown compared to the Nepali immigration office. Legally, I’m in India. I could have walked off without getting my passports stamped. Wonder how that would have played out!
Erotic carving at Gorkha Durbar
I have lunch at Indian side of Kakarbhitta. I miss the cleanliness of the Nepal. Why can’t Indian hotels be as clean as their Nepali counterparts! The buses to NJP leave frequently from Kakarbhitta. The bus took us directly to New Jalpaiguri (NJP). I checked into a hotel beside the railway station.
Day 35: New Jalpaiguri (NJP) - Kamakhya
The 0945 train arrived at NJP station at 1330. It’s almost 9 when I reached Kamakhya. I had already booked a hotel beside the temple. Took a rickshaw from the railway station to the Kamakhya entrance. Then walked up the steps to the hotel.
Day 36: Kamakhya
Hanuman temple, Kamakhya
It is believed that the Yoni of Goddess Sati fell at the location where Kamakhya temple is situated. As per the legend of this temple, the entire hillock became blue when the Yoni fell on here. Hence this place is also called as Neelanchal –Blue mountain. Since the yoni symbolizes creation, this is arguably the most famous of all Shakti Peetams. It also has the reputation of being the unofficial headquarters of Indian tantric culture. The annual Ambubhaji festival is a magnet for tantrics from all over India.
Entrance to Hauman temple from the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra river
After circumambulating the main temple, I went to Koti ling and Siddhi Ganesh temples. By 8 AM back in my hotel. I’m not happy with the hotel that I’m in. I found a new hotel and shifted there by 10 AM. In the evening, I went to the main temple. The evening queue is always shorter than in the mornings. As I wait in the queue, the temple is suddenly closed down for general public. The vice president of India is visiting the temple! The temple opened up to general public after an hour. After this, I visit the Bhuvaneshwari temple. It’s located on the highest elevation point of the mountain. This temple has the best views in Kamakhya. Sadly a part of the huge tree that towers over the temple has been chopped down to make way for a new building. Stopped at Baglamukhi and Chinnamasta temples on the way down.
Lalita Kanta temple, Kamakhya
Day 37: Kamakhya
As usual, I went to Koti ling and Siddhi Ganesh temples in the morning. The Kamakhya temple that everyone visits is one of the Desha Maha Vidya temples (10 great temples) on this hillock (Click here). In addition, there are a few minor temples at Kamakhya. (Click here) These smaller temples are relatively unknown and hardly receive any visitors. Most of these temples have to be reached on foot and it is a tough walk.
Bandipur, Nepal
I plan to cover all the other temples today. My first halt was at Nepali Baba’s cottage. After his death a few years ago, many sages have stayed here. But today, I found that his residence had been locked up. The new road has partially opened besides his ashram. Hanuman temple beside the Brahmaputra was quiet as ever. This has to be the least visited of all temples. Vana Durga temple was locked when I got there. I walked back up to the road and another devotee arrived there. I told him that the temple was closed. This devotee, a local man, was a regular visitor to this temple. He went to the priests house, got the key to the temple. Together we went back and opened the temple! I managed to walk to all the other temples by evening. By 5, I went to the main temple.
Second Thani Mai temple, Bandipur
Day 38: Kamakhya - Home
Today is 24-Sep-23. Went to Koti ling and Siddhi Ganesh temples in the morning. My flight departs at 1600 but it’s delayed. Thankfully, the connecting flight from the transit airport has also been delayed. I reach home quite late.
It was an amazing trip. 38 days got over in the blink of an eye. This was my first bus trip across Nepal. ThorongLa pass trek was quite an experience. So were places like Illam and Bhaktapur. I washed away my sins twice and reset my karmic liabilities to zero! On this trip, I did the first serious trek with 7 year old. But the highlight of the trip has to be visit to Tilicho Lake. I can’t wait to get back on the road again for my next adventure.
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