15 days in Uttarakhand

Day 1: Home – Dehradun (19-Apr-2023)

Lakhamandal

It was late when I arrived at Dehradun airport. My companion Is the 8 year old intrepid traveler. Took the electric bus from the airport to Dehradun city. I checked into the newly built “Oriental Hotel” beside the railway station. 

Day 2: Dehradun – Barkot – Kharadi

Kharadi is 10 KM beyond Barkot. To get to Kharadi, one has to first travel on a share Sumo to Barkot. Then, from Barkot, it’s another vehicle to Kharadi. The share Sumo’s from Dehradun depart from a small shop beside the railway station. I took the 1130 share sumo to Barkot. (Rs 300/- per person)

Temple at Lakhamandal

The trip to Barkot took about 4 hours. At Kharadi, my driver suggested that he will drop me off at Kharadi. After a bit of haggling, we finally agreed to a price of Rs 500/-. After all the other passengers from Dehradun got off at Barkot station, we started for Kharadi. Barkot is a reasonably big town in Uttarkashi district. My driver slowed down a bit beyond Barkot town and lots of people rushed into the vehicle. As I would come to realise later, public transport beyond Barkot is poor, especially in the evenings. This big group of people including kids who boarded my sumo got off a few kilometers before Kharadi.

Lakhamandal big cave

The ‘town’ of Kharadi is nothing more than a row of houses and shops besides the Yamuna. Many new hotels have sprung up catering to the deluge of pilgrims doing the Char Dham Yatra. For rest of the year, it’s a sleepy village. Infact, most of the hotels on this road remain shut after the pilgrimage season. My trekking guide from Himalayan Shelter Company had recommended the family run ‘Mount Memory’ hotel. Renovation and cleaning is still in progress at the hotel when I get here. Since I have arrived a 2 days before the Char Dham Yatra, I get off peak rates at the hotel. My room faces the Yamuna. At night, all I hear the Yamuna flowing by.

Gangnani

Day 3: Kharadi – Gangnani – Lakhamandal – Kharadi

After a late breakfast, the owner of my hotel dropped me off at Gangnani. It’s about 3 KM from Kharadi. Gangnani, beside the Yamuna, is famous for the holy natural spring. As the story goes, the revered sage Jamadagni (Pasahuraman’s dad) resided here, on the banks of the Yamuna. But he needed the holy water from the Ganges for his rituals. So he would walk across the mountains just to fetch it. As he got older, crossing the mountains became too tedious a task. With his magical powers he created a source of Ganga water beside the Yamuna river. This source of Ganga water beside the Yamuna river is at Gangnani. (For more about Jamadagni, see Than village on Day 5)It’s very peaceful at Gangnani today. I’m glad I came here before the pilgrimage season started. 

Lakhamandal temple

After spending some time here, I walked back up to the main road. After a short walk, I reached a small shop beside the road. Ordered a cup of tea and waited for public transport to Barkot. By now, news has reached us about landslide on the route to Yamunotri. This explains why the road was virtually deserted all this while! It was an hour before I get a share jeep to Barkot. From Barkot, I took another share jeep to Nayagaon. And then it was a short bus ride (Rs 20) to Bannigad. The road to Bannigad follows the Yamuna river for quite a while. Lakhamandal is on the opposite bank of the Yamuna river. The road to Lakhamandal bifurcates from the main road at Bannigad. And that’s where I got off. 

Ancient artefacts lying in the open at Lakhamandal temple

Bannigad consists of a bus shelter, a couple of shops and a ramshackle restaurant. Public transport to Lakhamandal is virtually non-existent to get. As I waited at the bus shelter, a person who was in the shop approached me. He was a resident of Lakhamandal. He was on his way home and he asked me if I wanted to go to the temple. He dropped me off near the temple for Rs.200. 

Lakhamandal small cave

From the motorable road, it’s a 10 minute walk through the narrow village roads to reach the temple. Lahkahamandal is very ancient temple. The board from the Archeological survey of India at the temple states the following. “This Nagara style temple of Lord Shiva was built in the 12th – 13th century AD. A large number of sculptures and architectural members are spread in the vicinity suggest the remains of more shrines of the same cult. … … … … The earliest evidence of structural activities at Lakhamandal goes back to Circa 5th -8th century AD on the basis of bricks structure below (the) stone built

4 Shiva lingams are believed to
be from 4 yugas. 

pyramidal structure. A stone inscription (6th century AD) on the site record the construction of the Shiva temple at Lakhamandal by the princess Ishwara who belongs to the royal race of Singhpura for the spiritual welfare of her late husband Chandragupt, the son of king of Jalandhra.”

Inside the sanctum of the main temple are numerous idols. There is also a black stone with indentations that vaguely resemble human footprints. I was told that these are the footprints of Sati Devi (If I remember correctly!). On the left side the main temple are 4 architecturally distinct Shiva Lingams. These are believed to have been made in the 4 different Yugams /eras. (Think Treta-yugam, Dwapara-yugam etc). 

These 5 stones represent Pandavas

On the right side of the main temple is a raised stone structure. On it are 4 square stones with a Shiva lingam at the center. These 5 stones collectively represent the Pandava brothers (from the epic Mahabharatam). The stone shaped like Shiva Lingam at the center is believed represent the eldest brother Yudhisthiran. There are a lot of ancient stone carving lying out in the open. It’s sad to see these historical treasures weathering away to dust. 

This Shiva lingam reflects like a mirror when 
water is poured on it!

Outside the temple perimeter, but adjacent to it, is the unique stone Shiva lingam. When dry, it looks like any other stone sculpture. But when water is poured over it, it acts like a mirror! It’s so good that one’s reflection can be seen on the stone lingam. 

I’s almost 4 PM. I go searching for transport to get back to my hotel. But there are no share sumos or autos here. I went into a shop and asked if he knew anyone who could take us to Bannigad. He shouted out to his neighbor. His neighbor, in turn, took me to another shopkeeper who owned a car. He agrees to drop me off in his at the road at Bannigad. There are 2 caves associated with this temple. The larger one is uphill from the Lakhamandal temple. The smaller one other is beside the road to Bannigad. I asked my ‘taxi driver’ to take me to both the caves before dropping me off at Bannigad. 

Board outside small cave

He first takes me to the big cave. I’m not sure what this cave is called. From the road, it a 15 min walk to the cave. It’s a large cave, but it’s not deep. There is a resident priest at this cave. He tries to explain the story of the cave, but I don’t get all of it. He tells me that this this cave was used by meditation by sage (whose name I can’t remember) eons ago. Those days the Yamuna would flow beside the cave. Now the Yamuna river flows much lower. The second stop is at the smaller cave. There is a hindi big poster in outside the cave Translated it reads "Ancient Pandav cave. The God Karthikeyan (Subramanyan) was born here. Self-made Gupteshwar (Shiva)“. The cave is partially lit up. The floor of the cave has been cemented over. The priest hands over a small flashlight to look at the idol. A small stalagmite is revered as the self-made (Swayambhoo) idol. 

Lakhamandal temple

For an additional fare, the car drops me off at Barkot. I went to the taxi union office to book a cab for the next leg of the journey. Almost all cities in Uttarakhand have taxi unions. The taxi rates are fixed by the driver’s union. It’s a good place to book cabs. Unfortunately, due to the Chardam Yatra, all the vehicles are rented out. He tells me to call back tomorrow. 

Road to Yamunotri

The landslide on the road to Yamunotri has not yet been cleared. Throngs of devotes are waiting for a vehicle to Yamunotri. I also join them in the hope of flagging down a passing vehicle. After an hour I manage to find a share jeep going to Kharadi.

Yamunotri temple closes before the harsh Himalayan winter sets in and re-opens again in summer the following year. Tomorrow is the opening day of Yanunotri temple. It is considered particularly auspicious to visit the temple on the opening day. I am not too keen to go there tomorrow as it will be overflowing with devotees. Yet, going to Yamunotri tomorrow is the best possible way to optimise my trip. My hotel owner advices me to wait beside the hotel by 7:30 AM as there will be numerous share jeeps plying to Yamunotri. If not, he promises to take me there himself, albeit a bit late, as he too will be going to the temple.  

The palanquin moving up to Yamunotri

Day 4: Kharadi – Yamunotri – Kharadi

I woke up early and went to the hotel reception. The hotel owner has already departed for Yamunotri to receive some high ranking minsters. I wait outside my hotel and try flag down vehicles going to Yamunotri. There is a small shop beside my hotel. I order a cup of tea. After 20 minutes, the tea shop owner tells me that it is a futile attempt. As today is temple opening day, all vehicles will leave Barkot packed with passengers. I ask him if I can hire a vehicle in Kharadi. He takes me to a nearby hotel and the hotel owner agrees to drive me to Yamunotri in his own car. We agree on a price of 3000/-. The owner of the tea shop also joins us for trip to Yamunotri. The ride to Yamunotri is extremely beautiful. That alone would have made the journey worthwhile, but the best was yet to come.

In winter, the Yamuna Devi shrine is kept at a village called Kharsali. On the opening day, (i .e. today/ 22-April-2023) the deity is carried to the Yamunotri temple. Vehicles stop at a place called Jan Ki Chatti. Beyond it is a 6KM trail to Yamunotri, the mountain abode of Yamuna Devi. It’s 10 when I start walking towards the temple. 15 min into my hike, I notice the procession with the palanquin carrying the idol of Yamuna Devi coming up from Kharsali. I leave the intrepid traveler behind joined the procession.

The palanquin has reached the temple

There are 2 palanquins in the procession. Yamuna Devi’s idol is carried in the lead palanquins. In the second palanquin is the idol of Lord Shani (Saturn). Yamuna Devi and Shani are siblings. The dutiful brother is going to drop his elder sister off at her summer residence. He will return to Kharsali village today itself after his sister takes her place at Yamunotri temple. On Bhai Dooj day, Shani once again treks up to Yamunotri temple to escort his sister back to Kharsali village. (Click here for the full Yamunotri trip)

Yamuna Devi's palanquin is washed in Yamuna river

The bearers, all men, take turns to carry the palanquin. I ask them if I can carry the palanquin. They readily agree and I end up carrying the palanquin of Shani for quite a while. However, I am not allowed to carry the Yamuna Devi’s palanquin. That privilege is only for the barefoot professional priests. When I hand over the palanquin, one person in the group tells me that I’m a very fortunate man. 

Behind the temple is the magnificent Yamunotri peak. The deity is washed in Yamuna river before placing it in the temple. The temple is locked and I can hear prayers happening inside. By now it has started snowing lightly. I decide not to wait any longer as I have to return to my car by 3 PM. After a brief walk downhill, I meet the intrepid traveler. From where she is standing, Yamunotri temple is visible. She is excited. It’s the first time that she has experienced snowfall. We pick up some snow together. Then we start walking back to the car. It’s a late lunch for us at Jan ki Chatti. It’s past 6 when I get back to the hotel. 

Jamagdani temple at Than village

My guide from Himalayan Shelter called me in the evening. The normal daily cab fare during Char Dham Yatra is Rs. 4000/- per day. My guide has arranged cab for me at a special rate for tomorrow’s journey. I guess, I’m fortunate after all!

Day 5: Kharadi – Than village – Kamand

By now I have become friendly with the hotel owners dad. The entire family lives in top floor of the hotel. He tells me that Khardi was a once a quiet farming village. Like many others, he too has completely given up farming as it has become unprofitable. This was a recurring theme I would hear across the trip. It is almost impossible for mountain farmers with small land holdings to employ farm machinery. As labour has become expensive, many are leaving their fields fallow. Tourism has become a financial life line for these small villages located on the Char Dham pilgrimage route. All the hotels in Kharadi, including this, have come up quite recently. The hotel owner’s dad tells me about the old walking trail from Yamunotri to Gangotri. It follows a different route as compared to the modern road. This ancient trail is still used by a handful of people even today. That’s a trail I would want to do someday!

This small tree is the 
Kalpaka Vriksham

My cab arrived at 09:30. I started late today; by 1030. As advised by our hotel owner, we went to the small village called Than. Its only 2 KM from Kharadi. The village in inhabited predominantly by Dimri Brahmins. Than village is a 5 minute walk from the motorable road. Set beside picturesque fields is the temple dedicated to the sage Jamadagni. In Hindu mythology, sage Jamadagni is one of the 7 great sages (Sapta Rishis). The temple renovation was in progress when I got there. Due to the ongoing work, the idol has been shifted to a small structure located behind the main temple. Thankfully, the temple is being renovated with traditional materials like wood and stone. The carpenter who was working on the building proudly told me that the new building will last at least a 100 years! 

At the rear end of the temple perimeter wall facing the wheat fields is a small tree. This is believed to be a Kalpaka-Vriksham! (Wish fulfilling tree). Few years ago, the old tree which stood on this spot dried up. The Kalpaka-Vriksham that we see today sprang up at the same spot naturally. It is said that nobody has seen another tree of the same species anywhere in this region. Naturally, taking clippings from this tree is forbidden.

Jamadagni temple, Than Village

The temple courtyard is quite large. Grains are being dried in the temple courtyard. The children from the village are playing happily. An old man walked up to me and starts talking. We have a pleasant conversation. He’s one of the elders from Than village. He tells me that the battle between Jamadagni and the Kshatriya kings happened in this area. Then, he points out to a small structure without a roof near the temple entrance. Inside it are a lot of old weathered stone idols. He told me that this enclosure can never be covered with a roof. He also tells me who these idols are it’s for, but I can’t recollect it. Perhaps it’s for Budhan (Mercury). 

Open structure at Jamadagni temple

Today’s plan is to go to Auli. The intrepid traveler has travel sickness. I stop at a non-descript place near Chamba, Tehri called Kamand. 

Day 6: Kamand – Surkanda devi temple – Dhanaulti

We don’t have much to travel today. I started by 1030. The first stop is Surkanda Devi temple. The temple is situated on a mountains top. One can walk or use the cable car to get to the temple. It is believed that the head of Sati Devi fell here. So the spot where the temple is built is also considered at a Shakti Peetham (spot). The temple is a modern steel and concrete building. The view from the temple is quite beautiful. 

Dnaulti is approx. 30 min drive from here. I’m put up at the GMVN Dhanaulti for the night. In the evening, I go for a walk through Dhanaulti. It’s very quiet. A shopkeeper tells me that the aspirations of modern travelers have changed. Instead of staying in hotel rooms, they prefer to stay in the cottages that are in and around Dhaulti. It’s quite cold at night.

Buddha Kedar temple

Day 7: Dhanaulti – Jaspur – Buddha Siddha (Buddha Kedar) – Jaspur

I start early at 0630 so that intrepid traveler would not throw up. Sadly, it didn’t help. By 11:30, I spot at small hotel beside road. I check into ‘Rawat Hotel’ in the small village of Jaspur. This is one of the many hotels that have come up to cater to the pilgrims on the Char Dham Yatra route.

By 1400, I start alone for the Buddha Kedar temple. Buddha Kedar temple is not too far off from the Char Dham route. After exiting from the Char Dham circuit, the roads have become narrow. But the scenery is exquisite. This was the best drive of the entire trip. Perhaps all of Uttarakhand might have looked like this before the advent of mass tourism. 

The drive to Buddha Kedar

Buddha Kedar temple hardly gets any visitors. I am alone when I reach the temple gates. An elderly couple and their daughter arrive there. As the priest has not yet arrived, we start talking. The couple tuned out to be husband and wife team of doctors. The wife was posted in this village and she knew the area quite well. She pointed out to an adjacent hillock thickly wooded with deodar trees. There is a Jwalamayi temple on the top of that hillock, she told me. Unlike other Jwalamayi temples, this one does not have an eternal flame. I won’t be able to make it there today. That’s a journey for another day!

The priest arrives and we enter the temple. The temple is a modern concrete building. Photography is prohibited inside the temple. Buddha Kedar temple is said to have the largest Shiva Linagam in north India.  The priest explained the legend of the temple. Shiva once turned himself into an old man to disguise himself from the Pandavas. Buddha Kedar temple built at the spot where Shiva turned himself into an old man. (Buddha meaning old man). It is said that praying at this temple is equivalent to undertaking pilgrimages to all the 12 Jyotir lingams across India! (Click here for full story of Buddha Kedar temple). To get full efficacy, one has to visit Buddha Kedar after visiting Kedarnath shrine. Buddha Kedar temple is still empty when I depart. I guess most people are not aware of this temple and its significance. 

Nachiketas Lake

I drive back to my hotel at Jaspur. We stop at a small ramshackle shop beside the road. There are few plastic chars outside the shop. I sit there and savor the only items on the menu; tea and pakoda. It’s an oasis of tranquility. The view from shop is extremely beautiful. I am well off the beaten path. The selfish part of me secretly wishes that Buddha Kedar will forever remain a hidden gem. 

Day 8: Jaspur – Nachiketas Lake – Sukhi Gaon

I started today’s journey by 0830. The first destination was a mountain lake called Nachiketas Lake. The trek to the lake starts from a place called Chowrangee Khal. Chowrangee Khal is nothing more than a collection of ramshackle eateries that cater to the vehicles plying on the Char Dham route. Beside the road is a forest check post. Since Nachiketas Lake is in the government designated forest, a permit is required (Rs 20). The corrupt forest official took the money but refused to give me a receipt. Nachiketas Lake gets very few visitors. My driver also hiking with me to the lake. He has done the Char Dham Yatra innumerable times, but he too has never visited this lake.

Women collecting leaves for fodder

The hike is to lake very beautiful. It takes about 2 hours to reach the lake. Nachiketas Lake is not too large. A stroll through the winding walkway around the lake is an excellent way to view the entire lake. Beside the lake is a temple dedicated to Nagas (snakes). The resident priest lives in a small hut beside the lake. But he’s in a bad mood today. The lake is teeming with fish. The fish in this lake are considered holy and people feed it. The fish have become fearless of humans. The fish would swim along with me when I walked on the bank of the lake!

I am the only tourist here. A group of local ladies were collecting leaves for cattle. They were climbing the tall trees beside the lake and cutting down it’s branches. Then the leaves were separated from the branches and tied into a huge bundles. The strong mountain ladies carried it away on their backs. 

The hotel at Nachiketas lake

There is a ‘hotel’ beside the lake. The ‘hotel’ consists of a wooden stove under an open sky! The only items on the menu are Maggi and tea. I start talking with the hotel owner. He was a casual laborer in the city. He gave up working in the cities and started this hotel. Business is bad, but I won’t go back to the city again, he told me. Apparently, I am the only tourist that has ventured here in the past few days. The hotel owner tells me the about the legend of this lake. As per the story in the in book Katha Upanishad, Nachiketas goes in search of Yaman (Lord of death). In the local version of the story, Nachiketas finds Yaman beside this lake. Hence the name of the lake. 

The dried up lake bed. The holy cave in
the square shaped hole in the ground.

The hotel owner asked me to walk up a little to reach a dried up lake bed. Apparently, the original Nachiketas Lake existed there. Only later did it shift to its present position. In the middle of the old dried up lake bed is a cave. The hotel owner told me that all attempts to explore this holy cave have met with failure. The last expedition into the cave failed because the batteries that were supposed to last a few hours died mysteriously after entering the cave. I return back to Nachiketas Lake. I order a Maggi and enjoy it beside the tranquil lake. 

I’m back at Chowrangee Khal. The round trip took me about 4 hrs. I have lunch at one of the many eateries beside the road. Then I set off got Gangotri. I stopped at Uttarkashi to buy gloves for the intrepid traveler.  I push on onward. The plan is to stop not later than 1930. I stop at many places, but I’m unable to find suitable accommodation. Gangnani, is a small village on the road to Gangotri. It is is famous for hot springs. I am offered a small room for Rs 3000 per night. The owner told me that the room is going cheap as there are only a few tourists today. There are days when the same room goes for Rs 6000 per night! Finally, I find modest accommodation at a small village called Sukhi Gaon. It has been raining most of the day. Hopefully, tomorrow is a better day. 

Bathing ghats at Gangotri

Day 9: Sukhi Gaon – Gangotri– Latta Shera

It’s a very cold morning. Thankfully, It’s a good day with clear blue skies. The view from the hotel is incredible. There is fresh snow on the mountains tops. By 0830, I started for Gangotri. We pass by the picturesque city called Harsil. It will be an excellent place to visit after the pilgrimage season is over. The drive to Yamunotri is very beautiful. Many snowcapped mountains are visible on either side. The road is generally well maintained, but at some sections only one vehicle can pass. The driver tells me that he had spent 7 Hrs on the road at one such narrow section. The road is clear today. 

Gangotri temple

Vehicles reach about 500m from the temple. The path to the temple is paved with concrete. Wheelchairs are available from the parking lot for those who cannot walk to the temple. The road leading to the temple is covered with shops on either side. I think that the shops should be moved back to broaden the walking path. 

I head directly to the banks of Ganga. Surprisingly, there are only a few pilgrims here. The scenery is picture perfect. Glaciers and snowcapped mountains are visible in the distance. The water level in the Ganga is quite low today. In reality, the river flowing beside Gangotri temple is the Bhageerathi. The Bhageerathi originates from Gangotri glacier. Ganga is formed at the town of Devprayag after the  confluence of the rivers Bhageerathi and Alakananda. Since Alakananda is longer than Bhageerathi, it can be argued that source of the holy Ganga is Alakananda and not Gangotri glacier. But this is not the time for geography or rational logic.

Gangotri

Bathing at Gangotri is guaranteed to erase all sins. I remove my clothes and step into the water. The water is freezing cold. I hold my nerve and take couple of dips. One can never be too sure if the first dip did the trick! I come out the water shivering. Yet, I feel happy. I feel light.  I feel renewed and re-born. The crushing weight of all my bad karma has been lifted. I slip into warm clothes and sit beside the river bank. Then I hear an announcement on the public address system. It says that today is Ganga Saptami (a.k.a Ganga Devi’s birthday). It’s highly auspicious to have a bath at Gangotri today. I’m certain that my karmic account has been reset to zero. If I had known today’s significance, I would have taken only one dip in the ice cold river. I guess I can offset future sins with the extra dips taken today. First an unplanned trip to Yamunotri (Click here) and now a dip in Gangotri during Ganga Devi’s birthday. I guess I’m, a lucky cookie. I weep for you sinners destined for hell.

Intrepid traveler hiking
to Nachiketas Lake

The clouds have started rolling in. I stand in the queue to enter the temple. It’s a short queue today. During busy days, the serpentine queue stretches all the way to the car park. Many devotes were jumping the queue without battering an eyelid. I end up fighting with many such devotees. I’m standing in the ‘free’ queue. There is a separate paid queue (Rs 500). The paid queue is much shorter. Money can’t buy love, but it will take you faster to God.

After the Darshan at the temple sanctum, I walk around the temple premises. I spot a small counter for making numerous offerings. A notice with services available was also posted there. This list included donations for ‘Clean Ganga Fund’. I decided to donate money for this cause. The person at the desk first asked me if I need a receipt for the Rs 100 I gave him. Then, he gave me a receipt that was carefully handwritten such that 10/ could be read as 100. I ended up fighting with him. Then he gave me a receipt with the amount written in words. Corruption is endemic here and even Ganga Devi is powerless to stop it.

Road ends at
Pallasari

By now it has started raining. I can see snowfall on the nearby mountain tops. I started my drive back.  On the way down, beside the road at the village called Bhairav Ghati is a Bhairav (Shiva) temple. It’s a modern concrete building. It is said that to obtain full blessings, one should visit this temple after visiting the Gangotri temple. 

It is 1900 hrs when we reach the village of Latta Shera. This small village is 22 KM from Utarkashi. I check into a small family run hotel beside the road. These small hotels cater to the tourists during the pilgrimage season. For the next 6 months, it is deserted. 

Day 10: Latta Shera – Silla – Uttarkashi – Latta Shera (28-April)

It’s a bright sunny day. I washed my clothes in the morning and let them out to dry. At night, all the other rooms in the hotel were taken up by a bus full of pilgrims from Andhra Pradesh (perhaps Telengana!). These elder devotees were travelling on a shoestring budget. To keep expenses low, they sleep in shared rooms/ dorms and cook their own food. Today, they managed with 2 toilets for 30 odd people. Many of them do not have warm clothes for the Himalayan weather. It’s their devotion and determination that makes these pilgrimages possible. I watched the cook who was travelling with them coming out of the bus with a gas cylinder. He also brought out a few very large utensils and started cooking breakfast. It’s upma for breakfast today! Some of the devotees were not happy with the cooking and were complaining loudly. When everybody was done, the cook threw the leftover food in front of the hotel. The hotel owner gave him a mouthful, but they could be bothered to clean their mess. Soon, they got into the bus and sped away. The hotel owner had to clean all the food, disposable plates and cups they strewn in front of the hotel. 

Accidents are a common sight
in the mountain roads

At 10, I set off for the small village called Silla. Even though the drive is only about 20 min, it’s a world away from the Char Dham route. The narrow winding road is absolutely quiet. I don’t see a single shop or vehicle on the entire route. Silla is a small village with about 10-15 houses. I continue driving beyond Silla. In another 10 min, I reached the end of the road. The signpost beside the road says “Pallasari 0 KM”. It’s quite beautiful here. There are fields on either side of the road. Snowcapped mountains are visible in the distance. But not a person is in sight. I waited there for quite a while. While driving back I saw an upturned goods jeep. I wonder what happened to the driver! 

The next stop was Uttarkashi. After lunch, I went to the Kashi Vishwanath temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It’s crowded today as most Char Dham pilgrims stop here. The main object of veneration is the Shiva Lingam in the main sanctum. There are a few other temples around it. I am back in my room by 6 PM. 

Wooden house at Raital

Day 11: Latta Shera – Raital 

It’s a very short ride today. So I stated at 1030. Yesterday, I had crossed a small bridge over the Yamuna on the way to Silla. I went back there again. I walked down from the car into the Yamuna. I am alone here. It’s magical. I spend quite some time here on the banks of the Yamuna. Then I set off for the village called Raital. The car I had hired for the last few days drops me at the homestay and departs. 

The Darya Bugyal trek starts from Raital. In peak season, this small village gets overrun with trekkers. My guide has booked me into a homestay. (Rs 1000 per night). Since the trek team will arrive tomorrow, I’m alone here. The homestay owner says there is no one to cook food. So he provides me with rice, onion, salt, dal and other ingredients. We cook the food together! He assures me that his wife will be back in the evening and that he will provide me with dinner! It rained for most of the day.

I can see fresh snowfall on the trekking path. The trail will be wet, slippery and cold. I’m getting worried about the trek. This year, Uttarakhand received very little snowfall in winter. But now it’s receiving heavy unseasonal rain and snow! Weather patterns unpredictable now; my homestay owner told me. It rained for most of the night.

Day 12: Raital – Uttarkashi

Uttarkashi temple

The intrepid traveler started suffering from diarrhea and vomiting at night. I gave her medicine from my first aid kit. By early morning, she is better. Raital has no medical facilities, not even a pharmacy. Considering her condition, I decided to cancel my trek. I called up my guide at Himalayan Shelter. There are 2 more people doing the trek with me. The plan was for them to reach Raital by today evening and start the Darya Bugyal trek tomorrow. They have already left from Dehradun. It’s disappointing, but cancelling the trek is the right thing to do.

Mud house at Raital village

I decided to go back to Uttarkashi since I’m not doing the trek. The super helpful homestay owner arranged a local vehicle for me. It will arrive by 12. I go for a stroll in the village. The first stop is the local temple. It has 2 buildings. The deity, Kali Devi, is kept in the lower structure. The palanquin for carrying the deity is kept in the upper building. All important events in the village happen only after consulting of the temple priest. The priest will check the astrological charts and prescribe an auspicious date and time for event. The palanquin (Dholi) with the deity inside is bought out during festivals, weddings etc. I wait outside the temple grounds for a while. The view from the temple premises is very beautiful. But the mountains are obscured by the clouds. There were 2 little girls sitting outside the temple. They happily posed for the camera! There are many beautiful old buildings in Raital. The 200+ year old 5 storied building has to be the most unique one.

Offering a lamp to the holy
Ganges at Rishikesh

The vehicle dropped me off at Uttarkashi (Rs 1000). I checked into the ‘Hotel Everest’ beside the Sumo counter. I have booked seats on tomorrow’s 0900 share jeep to Rishikesh. It’s raining heavily. Armed with an umbrella, I went to Kashi Vishwanath temple in the evening. The intrepid traveler is much better. 

Day 13: Uttarkashi– Rishikesh

My guide messaged me from Raital village. The weather is so bad up there that he’s unsure if they can start the trek! The share sumo that was supposed to leave to 0900 didn’t turn up. Instead I’m put on a minivan by 1015 AM. About 30 min into the journey, the van stopped. There is a landslide on our road. As I watch, boulders come crashing down. My van driver reverses and parks the vehicle at a safe place. A middle aged couple on a bike decided that that cannot wait for the road to re-open. The drove right across when the landslide was happening. They lived to tell the tale. Bravery or foolishness? I can’t decide. We start moving in about 45 min. It rained for most of the time. 

Rishikesh

By 5 PM, I reach Rishikesh. I check into the ‘Smart Rooms’ at Tapovan. The sun is still up and I went to Ram Jhula. Since it started raining, I’m back quickly. The manager at smart rooms told me that the Gomukh trek that starts from Gangotri has been suspended due to heavy rains. There are reports of numerous landslides on the local news. Even the main road leading to Badrinath and Kedarnath have been closed. 

Day 14: Rishikesh

House at Raital

It’s a cloudy day. After breakfast, I went to see Laxman Jhula. For the uninitiated, Laxman Jula, is the name of a steel suspension bridge across the Ganges. Only after getting there do I realise that it has been closed down. An alternate suspension bridge is being built adjacent to it. Instead of going back through the main road, I decided to walk back to my hotel using google maps. It takes me through some narrow lanes. This is a part of Rishikesh that I would have completely missed out if I had not taken this path. At some places, the lanes are so narrow that 2 people can barely pass. And the lanes very dirty; there is cow dung everywhere. Since drainage is non-existent, rain water mixed with cow dung is flowing through these narrow lanes. Yet, located in the midst of this squalor are cafes and shops that cater to a predominantly western clientele. Rishikesh does live up to its reputation as a city for foreigners to experience ‘spiritual’ India. Colorful fliers posted all over the walls offer various activities. The fliers include sessions on ‘Vedic astrology learning’, ‘White divine tantra’, ‘Ecstatic dance’, ’Kundalini yoga’ etc. etc.(Click here for full list of fliers at Rishikesh)

Intrepid traveler washing away her sins
in the holy Ganges at Rishikesh

Thankfully, the rains have stopped in the evening. In the evening, I visited Ram Jhula (another suspension bridge). From Shartugnan ghats, I took a boat across the Ganges. I sat on the white sandy beach beside the Ganga. Rishikesh is famous for watersports, especially white water rafting. The inflatable boats are passing by. The intrepid traveler played in the water for a while. At sundown, I went to the watch the Aarti. Aarti is a prayer with fire conducted on the banks of the Ganga. It’s a narrow approach road to the ghats where Aarti is conducted. Both sides of the narrow lane are lined with shops that cater to tourists The Aarti venue is well organised. A drone is providing live feed to a large screen. A new rock and earth makeshift dam has been erected to prevent the flow of Ganga into the Aarti venue. And I thought the prayers were for obtaining the blessings of Ganga River! This place is too noisy and ‘civilised’ for my liking. I find a quiet place by the Ganges a little ahead. I sat there listening to the river flowing by. 

Day 15: Rishikesh - Home

Floating lamps as offerings on the
holy Ganges at Rishikesh

Today is my last day in Uttarakhand. Yet my mission is not over. It’s raining, but that can’t stop me. After breakfast, I go once again to Ram Jhula. I cross the suspension bridge and reach the banks of the Ganges. In the pouring rain, I take a bath in the Ganges. All my sins- washed away! It’s not that I had done innumerable sins after my dip at Gangotri less than a week ago! Better safe than sorry. What’s an additional dip compared to eternal damnation in hell! 😆

The cab picked me up from the hotel by 1230. It’s late when I get home. It was quite a trip. The Himalayas never fail to impress and inspire me.  I was able to wash away my sins twice. First at Gangotri on the highly auspicious Ganga Ganga Saptami (Ganga Devi’s birthday). And the second time at Rishikesh. The hike to Yamunotri carrying the palanquin has to be the highlight of this trip. It was an undoubtedly experience of a lifetime. (Click here)  

Terraced fields near Nachiketas lake

After I got home, I received a messaged from my guide. Due to inclement weather, Darya Bugyal trek couldn’t be completed. They were forced to return back to Raital village. With hindsight, cancelling the trek was a wise decision. Trekking 3 days in the pouring rain and snow would have become quite tedious for the intrepid traveler. Yet in a strange way, feel a happy that others couldn’t complete the trek. Oops, I have just committed another sin. Damn! In a blinding flash of crystal clear awareness, my next endeavor revealed itself.  I have find a place closer to home where I can wash off my sins.

Other blogs in the series

• An epic journey to Yamunotri

• Buddha Kedar Temple:  A hidden Jem

• Flyers of Rishikesh: A photo blog