Dagala Trek: The 1000 lakes trek

November 07, 2023

Dagala Trek: The 1000 lakes trek

Dagala Trek is a moderate difficulty trek in Bhutan that’s normally done in 5 days. I am doing this trek in May 2023. May is a generally a good time in Bhutan. But this year’s weather has been quite unpredictable. Winter set in too late. It should be summer now, but it feels like early spring. The monsoons have started too early. The weatherman has predicted more rains in the next few days.

Horses getting ready for the trek

Day 1: Paro – Genekha (2890 M) – Gur (3273 M)

I slept overnight in Paro. It’s a short drive from Paro to Genekha. The Daga La (1000 Lakes) trek starts beside a prayer Chorten at Genekha. Opposite the chorten in a large new’ish building. The building seems empty. I’m not sure what it’s for! The mules for my trek have already arrived. Trekking in Bhutan is quite a logistical undertaking. My trek party includes my guide (Karma), a cook, a helper, an assistant, 2 horsemen and 8 mules. As you might have guessed, trekking in Bhutan is quite an expensive affair. The mountains are pristine and relatively unexplored. I consider it money well spent.

Cross this bridge and the trek begins

As we wait, one of the team members gets a phone call that the Chief Abbot of Bhutan is passing by. Chief Abbot is the supreme head of Bhutanese Buddhism. The Bhutanese constitution confers on him the same level of authority as the King or the prime minister of Bhutan. My guide advised me not to take his photographs. Taking photographs of the Abbot or royal family members can lead to jail time! Me and the trekking team lined up beside the road. The chief Abbot was alone travelling in a SUV. Seeing us standing in a queue beside the road, the Abbot stopped his vehicle beside us. He was sitting in the front seat. Without getting out from the vehicle, he touched our head with a sacred object called Phurb. Associated primarily with the Vajrakilaya deity, Phurb (sometimes called as Phurba) is a triangular dagger with 3 blades. My guide said that I’m very fortunate to have received the blessings from spiritual head of Bhutanese Buddhism.

Campsite on Day 1

The trek started in earnest by 1030 AM. Cross the modern steel cable suspension bridge and we are in the wilderness. With clear blue skies, it’s a perfect day for trekking. There is a slight nip in the air. At 1215 we stopped for lunch. After a brief halt we continued our hike. Most of today’s walk is though pristine forests.

We reached the camp site by 2 PM. It’s a leisurely 7 KM trek today. Gur camp site is a natural clearing in the woods. About an hour after reaching the camp site, it started drizzling. In the evening, armed with an umbrella, I went for a small walk around the camp site. It’s extremely beautiful. By night, it’s raining cats and dogs. I wonder how tomorrow will be!

Day 2: Gur (3273 M) – Paga Labtsa Pass (4100 M) – Wata Chen (4050 M) – Laba Tama (4200 M)

It’s a beautiful day with clear skies. After breakfast, we start walking by 0810. As we walk higher, the mountain range of western Bhutan come into view. The view is mesmerising. I can spot Jomolhari and Jichu Drakey peak among them. Jomolhari Mountain is situated on the Bhutan – China (Tibet) border. During my third trip to Bhutan in 2013, I did the gorgeous Jomolhari trek (Click here for Jomolhari trek). Due to the ongoing geopolitical tension, Jomolhari trekking permits are no longer issued to Indian or Chinese nationals.

Preparing the mules for day 2 of the trek

The trail from Gur ascends almost continuously until Paga Labtsa Pass. The change in altitude is visible in the vegetation. Tall trees have given way to shrubs and later sparse vegetation. Ice is still present is some places. The clouds are slowly rolling in. I have lunch before Paga Labtsa Pass. It became so windy that I had use my umbrella as a wind break while eating! After lunch, we quickly continue walking. At Paga Labtsa Pass, stones are piled up to make a small square tower. In winter, these stones becomes a landmark that peeps above the heavy Himalayan snowfall. As usual, the stone tower is decorated with Buddhist prayer flags.

Paga Labtsa Pass

After the pass, the gradually trail descends into the settlement of Wata Chen. This ‘city’ boasts of an impressive number of houses- 2. These are temporary dwellings used by yak herders exclusively in summer. One of the houses was occupied by a yak herder’s family. They invite me into their house. The fireplace inside the house was exactly what the doctor ordered! The hospitality of Bhutanese people is second to none. Expect to be treated like an honored guest both in the city and at a yak herder’s temporary dwelling. The yak herder tells me that there is a shorter trail to arrive here without going through Paga Labtsa Pass. But the trail is steeper and more dangerous.

Beyond Wata Chen, the trail drops abruptly to Laba Tama valley. The view of the valley below is incredible. It’s scenery like this that makes trekking worthwhile. By now, the weather has taken a turn for the worse. As we descend into Laba Tama valley, we are pelted with hail. The winds have become extremely strong. The trail has become mushy. There is no choice but to keep walking in this terrible weather. Its 1530 when I get to my camp at Laba Tama. Hail was my constant companion until I reached my camp site. I trekked about 12 KM today. But it has taken too much time. I am blaming it on the altitude and bad weather😀

Inside a yak herders summer house

There is a permanent shelter for trekkers at Laba Tama. This shelter built by the Bhutanese authorities has 2 rooms. My trekking team is sleeping in one room and using the other room as the kitchen. My tent is pitched out in the open. My guide gets news that members of the royal Bhutan family are camping out here. We are not sure who it is. My guide reminds me once again that taking photos of the royal family members is prohibited. It can even lead to jail time.

Vulture lake

Rain, hail and snow fall continues to get stronger as night sets in. If the bad weather continues, Docha La pass that we intend to cross tomorrow will get snowed over. Crossing the pass in heavy snowfall will become dangerous. All I can do is hope for better weather. After dinner, I retire to my tent. The tent is pitched out in the open. The ice cold winds are battering my tent. Snow and hailstones are piling up outside. It’s pretty cold inside the tent. I ease myself into the sleeping bag wearing a thermal headgear, gloves and 5 layers of clothing. Ah... The joys of trekking!

Most of the snow outsider my tent has melted

Day 3: Laba Tama (4200 M)

It snowed most of the night. As per my itinerary, we are to cross Docha La pass and camp at Pankha (4000 M) today. At 4475 M, Docha La pass is the highest point of the entire trek. Due to yesterday’s bad weather, Docha La pass will be heavily snowed down. Crossing the pass today will be a risky proposition. So I decided extend the trek by a day. My guide checked with the cook and we have sufficient provisions for an extra day. The new plan is to explore the lakes today and cross Docha La pass tomorrow.

My guide and horseman hiking to the lakes.

Dagala Lakes trek derives its name from numerous lakes of this region this region. Honestly, I think they counted every little puddle to arrive at the figure of 1000 lakes! The lakes are only a short walk away from the camp site. It will be an easy hike. Coming to the lake along with me is my guide and horseman. After a late breakfast, we started walking by 0845. Thankfully, it’s blue skies when we start walking.

Turquoise lake

It’s a short walk to the first lake; Utsho lake (Turquoise Lake). The small mountain lake is a sight to behold. The lake gets its name from its amazing turquoise coloured water. Some of the larger lakes in this region are sign posted, including this one. On the board is a curious instruction. “Please avoid from making loud noises/ shouting. This may provoke the Tshomen (mermaids) local deities and bring misfortune.” The board also forbids people from making offerings of food, coins or currency at the lake. These lakes are sacred for the locals. When the yak herders arrive here in summer, they light lamps and pray beside the lake. Needless to say, fishing in these holy lakes is prohibited. Karma, my guide, pulled out his flute and started playing a tune! I couldn’t believe he carried his flute for the trek! I sit on a vantage point overlooking turquoise lake and listening to Karma on the flute. Its magical (Click here to see video)

Gold Lake

We hike to the other lakes. Each one is a gem. We have to pass over snow patches to get to the other lakes. Only some of the lakes are sign posted. Some of the other lakes I visited are called Dagye Tsho lake (meaning longer than archery range), Jagey Tsho (Vulture shaped lake), Sertsho lake (Gold lake) Tsha Tsho lake (Salt lake), etc. At 4350 M, Vulture Lake is the highest altitude lake I visited.

Ruddy shelduck photographed through the snowfall

By 1130, it has become cloudy. Hail and snow fall has started. But we continue to exploring the lakes. At an unnamed lake, we spot a beautiful duck. My guide identified it as a Ruddy Shelduck. The enigmatic Kinga was even able to play the mating call of the bird on his phone! This is a bird that likes the cold weather. In winter months, it comes down to Thimphu and Paro. In summer it comes up to these cold lakes. I try to get closer and get a photo, but it flew away.

Dagye Tsho lake (meaning longer than archery range)

After visiting 8 lakes, we decided to return back to the camp site. By now the weather has deteriorated quite a bit. We almost ran the last 15-20 min back the campsite because of the strong winds and heavy hail. Its 1315 when I get back to my camp. The cook offers me a warm cup of tea. After spending 15 min in the wind and hail, every cup of tea magically transforms into a divine elixir!

The bad weather shows no sign of letting down. Instead of going to my tent, I stay along with the trekking team in the permanent shelter. The fire the kitchen is keeping it a bit warm. Seated beside the kitchen fire, I get to hear more stories about this hidden corner of Bhutan. In winter, Laba Tama remains buried under thick snowfall. By summer, the yak herders return. The 5th month of Bhutanese calendar (Approx July), is the peak time for yak grazing. Multiple yak herders will be camped here at the same time. During this month, trekkers can only pass through Laba Tama; camping is not permitted here. The trekkers normally camp at Wata Chen.

Salt lake

The cook makes piping hot puri for dinner. Outside, it’s still snowing. Crossing the pass tomorrow will be an impossible task. We make a decision to turn back. It’s extremely disappointing. I console myself saying that it’s the right thing to do. Today’s hike to the lakes was not part of the original itinerary. We would have just walked over the Docha pass to the next camp site without visiting a single lake! The visit to the lakes was undoubtedly the highlight of the trek. I have to thank the bad weather for the opportunity to visit these amazing lakes.

After dinner, I retire back to my tent. I’m hoping that 5 layers of clothing, thermal headgear, gloves and the sleeping bag will keep me warm tonight. As Calvin’s dad will agree, I’m building a lot of character in this trip.

Day 4: Laba Tama (4200 M) –– Wata Chen (4050 M) – Paga Labtsa Pass (4100 M) – Kep Chem (3800 M)

It’s a horrible day today. There is ice around the tent. The wind is blowing like crazy. Hail keeps making occasional appearances. I wait a bit for the weather to improve. Finally, we start walking by 0850. I pass by the camp site of a small group of American trekkers. They have gone to the lakes as it’s impossible to cross the mountain pass today. My horsemen have news that they will try to catch some fish in the lakes. By now, I have realised that the people with the most up-do-date news and local gossip are the horsemen. They know absolutely everything; how much inches of snow was received on a mountain, who is camping at which place, has how many yaks a herder owns etc. etc.. Yesterday my horseman had informed me that the royal family member camping in the mountain is the king’s nephew. Maybe I will get to see him today!

As we cross over into the next mountain, I turn back and take in the last views of the magnificent Laba Tama valley! Hopefully, I will be able to return to the lakes once again and cross the Docha pass. Keeping my fingers crossed. By the time I reach Wata Chen, the skies begin clearing up. It’s a peaceful walk until Paga Labtsa Pass.

The trail is all downhill from Paga Labtsa Pass. As we descend, grass gives way to trees. Various coloured Rhodenderon flowers are in bloom. By 1315, we reach the camp site. Today’s camp site is very close to the first day’s campsite at Gur. It was an easy walk today. Compared to yesterday’s camp site, it’s quite warm. It won’t snow here tonight, for sure.

Beside our tent is a temporary dwelling of a Yak herder’s family. 3 generations of yak herders are living here. The granddaughter, the youngest, appears to be in her late teens. The patriarch of the house was in his mid 80’s. The tough life as a yak herder and pristine mountain air have kept him incredibly fit. In the evening, the weather becomes very bad. My guide invites me into the Yak herder’s house. The ‘house’ is a single room made with locally available stone. The floor is done with wooden boards. There is a steel fireplace in the middle of the room. As usual, visitors are always welcome. I make myself comfortable beside the warm fireplace. I am offered a traditional cure for flue and colds. It is made by boiling the stem of a shrub that grow only in the very high Himalayas. My guide told me that it’s incredibly difficult to find this herb even in specialist herbal shops at Thimphu. It is guaranteed to keep flu and cold away for 3 months. I drink the elixir. It’s extremely bitter. But it worked as advertised. I was cold and flu (and perhaps Covid) free for at least 3 months.

The patriarch seated beside the wood fired heater

The patriarch is very happy to talk to me. Unfortunately, I forgot to write down his name. Since he speaks only Bhutanese, my guide does the translation. He proudly told me that he knows each and every mountain, lake, tree, plant and leaf in this area. He knows plants growing in the high altitudes whose roots produce different colours. In times gone by, these plants were used for dying clothes. In his younger days, he was among those drafted by the king to make the road from Thimphu to Phoensheling. It was hard work. Without heavy machinery, all work was done by hand. Once the construction work was over, he returned home. Those days Bhutan did not have a professional standing army. He was among the first group of professional army soldiers of Bhutan. He was not sure of the precise year but he approximated it to 1968. He was also involved in the reconstruction and enlargement of Thimphu Dzong.

Spot the trail!

My cook has prepared soup for dinner. He offered it to the patriarch. I’m surprised when he pulled out a wooden bowl from his Ghol (Traditional Bhutanese dress) for drinking the soup. After drinking the soup, he licked his cup and put it back into his Ghol! These wooden cups are made from the burls of the maple tree. The price of the cup depends on the pattern of the burls. Bowls with exquisite patterns have been sold for a few lakh rupees! The ‘pocket’ of the Ghol is quite large. In fact there is a saying in Bhutan that’s loosely translated as “You never know if you will meet a friend or enemy”. If you meet your friend, take out the wooden bowl and drink Ara (an alcoholic drink) with him. If you enemy comes along, take out your knife from the Ghol and fight him. My guide showed me the sword/knife that he carries in his Ghol during treks. The beautiful and sturdy knife has the size of a large machete. It’s handle is hand carved from maple root. Each region of Nepal has a distinctive shape to their knife/sword. So a person’s native region can be identified by the shape of his sword. Since Bhutan is one of the most peaceful countries in the world, nobody carries swords along with them anymore. It’s mobile phones and car keys in the Ghols nowadays!

Horseman beside Vulture lake

At 7Pm, it is raining heavily. The wind is so strong that we get worried if the tents will fly away. The old man tells us that bad weather is retribution by the spirits for fishing in the lake. It appears that my horseman have already given him the latest news. The old man genuinely believed in what he the mystical power of lakes and her spirits. Those of us, including me, bought up in the era of science will scoff at such pagan beliefs. Yet, a part of me yearns for the simple ways and pleasures of life.

Day 5: Kep Chem (3800 M) – Genekha

Yak grazing beside my tent

In the morning, I wake up to the sound of animals moving around my tent. A bit perturbed, I peek out from my tent. There are enormous yaks grazing all around my tent! Despite their huge size, yaks are very shy creatures. It took me quite a long time to get a picture of them close to the tent.

Pen for baby yaks

I have a quick walk around the campsite. It’s cloudy, but not raining. There is a pen outside the yak herder’s house. Overnight, all the baby yaks have been rounded up inside the pen. I walked closer to the pen to get a picture of the baby yaks, my cook shouted out to me. He waived his hands asking me not to go too close. The granddaughter of the Yak herder is already out milking the yaks. Yak milk is collected in a simple hollowed out tree trunk. It must have taken has about 1.5 hours to milk all the yaks! Mountains life may be simple, but its hard physical work.

Hollowed out log becomes a water storage device!

Outside the house, a plastic pipe has been laid from a water source high in the mountains. Crystal clear water flowing through this pipe all the time. Beside it an ingenious water tank made by hollowing out a large tree. Soon many kids that look like class 8-9 students start appearing beside the pipe to brush their teeth. They are from a school camping trip and the king’s nephew is party of this group. I wait for the young prince to arrive. He is accompanied by a personal soldier. My guide reminds me once again that photographing him can lead to time in jail!

Yak milk in a wooden container

The school teacher leading the camping trip had met my guide yesterday. He was quite happy that the king’s nephew was hiking with them. Normally on these trips, all the provisions and equipment are carried by the students themselves. Since the king’s nephew was once of the students, the king provided pack mules from the royal stables for the camping trip. With the mules lugging heavy stuff, their camping trip became a lot easier.

I said goodbye to the grandfather yak herder and started walking down by 0815. It’s a short and easy walk today. The trail descends most of the time. As I am walking down, the kids from the school begin overtaking me. When the class teacher passed me by, I asked him if I can take a photo with all the students. He politely refused.

Took a breather under this while walking down

It’s a beautiful walk. Slowly signs of humanity begin appearing. Farms, houses and monasteries are visible on the adjacent mountains. The royal mules from the king’s stables passed me by. These magnificent animals were as tall as horses and well built. Compared to them, our mules look like those from ‘my little pony’. There is a small river before the end of the trail. I stepped into the river and collected a few more stones.

Prayer chorten at the end of the trek

By 1045, I’m back at the road. The trek is over. I wish it didn’t 😔. It was a wonderful trek. The pristine mountains of Bhutan are a treat for every nature lover. It’s a tad disappointing that I couldn’t cross over Docha pass and complete the trek as planned. However, the visit to the lakes, something that was not part of the original itinerary turned out to be the highlight of the trip. As a bonus, I received blessings from the Chief Abott of Bhutan and, hopefully, from the Tshomen (mermaids) of the lakes. I can’t wait until my next trek in Bhutan.

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