8 Days: Waynad and coorg

Mandal patti
Mandal patti view point
Morning walk outside the homestay
Day 1 (26-Dec-20): Reached my destination by 5 PM. We had booked a homestay on the outskirts of Wayanad. The family run place is located beside lush coffee plantation at Palkunnu near Panamaram. We had the entire first floor of the 2 storied house to ourselves. Food is made in the family kitchen and the request for dinner or lunch has to be done in advance.

Day 2: Went for a walk in the morning beside the homestay. It makes for a very pleasant walk. The walk through the road in the middle of the paddy fields was refreshing. 

After breakfast at the homestay, we drove to a river island called Kurva Dweep. Due to a legal dispute in the courts between environmentalists and the government, the entry into the island has been suspended.  There is a bamboo raft ride that takes visitors to the edge of the island. However, the ride is nothing special and I will not recommend visiting Kurva Dweep only for the boat ride. 

Kurva Dweep
Boating in Kurva Dweep

The Wayanad Heritage Museum has excellent pieces showcasing the rich history of Wayanad. Sadly, its upkeep leaves a lot to be desired. In a few cabinets, even the defective bulbs have not been replaced. 

Visited Banasura Sagar Dam after lunch. This is the largest earth dam in India. The place was extremely crowded. 

Kurumbali Kotta
There is a cross on top of Kurumbali Kotta
Kurambali Kotta is a small hillock close to Panamaram. The trek to the top takes about 1 hr. There is a cross on the top of the mountain. Its an excellent location to view sunrise and sunsets. I managed to arrive just in time for the sunset. My companions couldn’t make it. 

Day 3: The first destination was Kanthanpara waterfalls. The waterfall had recently opened up to public after the COVID pandemic. Bathing in the main spot had not opened up but it was possible to take a bath upstream. I took a nice refreshing dip in the cool clear water.

Kanthanpara Falls

I reached Muthanga wildlife reserve by 1:15 PM. Private vehicles are not permitted inside the designated forest area. Entry into the forest in done only in government approved vehicles. There are 40 jeeps in the morning and 20 in the evening. The afternoon safari tickets are issued only by 3 and I waited in the queue. The ride in the forest covers apprx 16 KM and takes about an hour. Spotted an elephant, a few deer, a peacock and a handful of vultures. A few days earlier the driver of our jeep had spotted a leopard during his trip and he had a picture on his mobile to prove it. Spotting animals is a matter of luck. Sometimes no animals show themselves up on the jungle safari.

Day 4: By 6:15, I visited the ancient Jain temples at Panamaram. Click here for detailed pictures. As we were leaving the homestay, the owner told us that he was visiting his family temple called Valliyur Kavu. Since the temple was in the general direction of our travel, we decided to pat a visit to this temple. The Kavu (sacred grove) is beside the main road. The main temple is a short walk up the paddy fields. There is a proper road to the main temple, but I missed that!

Valliyur Kavu
Valliyur Kavu

The next stop was Thrissilery temple followed by Thirunalli temple. Both these temples have a deep connection. Even though the road distance between the temples is about 20 km, there is shorter walking trail route through the forest. However, the trail through the forest has been suspended by the forest officials. As per Hindu custom, Bali (ritual offering of food) has to be made annually to the forefathers. One offering of Bali for the diseased if enough if it’s performed at the highly auspicious Thrissilery and Thirunalli temple. There are hardly any devotees today. Due to the COVID pandemic, the temple has done IKEA style directional arrow markings on the floor. It was very impressive and must be emulated in every temple. Photography is not allowed in the temple premises. 

Thrissilery temple
Thrissilery main temple

The first shrine in Thrissilery is called Jala durga. The small Jala durga temple is surrounded by flowing water! The priest of this temple was walking barefoot with around the temple with water up to his ankles. He told us that the water originates from Thirunelli temple. The main Thrissilery temple has a piece of rock sticking out. It is believed to be head of the God. His foot is Thirunelli temple. Hence for full efficacy, Bali has to first performed at Thirunelli. Then the devotee proceeds to Thrunelli to perform the rest of the rituals. The priest in Thrissilery was incessantly telling us to make and wish in front of the deity. I told him that I’m looking for any “gains” but he kept insisting that I should make a wish. He reminded me that I have to come back and make the Pooja only if the wish comes true! I think that reduced influx of devotees due to COVID has adversely affected his income. I strongly recommend a career for him in sales! Above Thirunelli is a smaller temple. I’m not sure who’s the deity here.

Temple above Thrissilery main temple

The drive from Thrissilery to Thirunelli takes about 45 min. The temple is almost empty. After visiting the main shrine, I go to the stream called as Papanasham that lies a walking distance from the temple. Bathing in the river has the power can remove all sins. I will not miss this opportunity. I’m de-sinned but I don’t think it will last long!

The stopped at Iruppu falls. This is in Karnataka state. The walk from the parking lot to the falls takes about 20 min. The bath in the waterfall is refreshing. I reach the homestay at Kedekkal, Coorg by 7 PM. 

Iruppu falls
Iruppu falls

Day 5: The owner of Planters Bungalow homestay was super helpful. He planned today's itinerary for me. The homestay is beside the main road but set into the middle of Coffee plantations. It's coffee harvest season.

Early in the morning I visited Sree Bhadrakaleshwari temple that's located opposite the homestay. Apart from the priest, I'm the only person here. As I stood outside, the priest signalled me to come inside the temple. The prayers took about 20 min. 

Talacauvery: This is the source of the sacred Cauvery river. It makes for a sad sight. Nature has been brutally destroyed and  replaced with concrete and marble structures. Not a blade of grass can grow here. This is not the way to thank nature. I wonder how long the river will survive!  

Tired legs on Thadiyantemol trek
Mandal Patti: Park private vehicles on the road and take the jeeps that do the trips to Mandal Patti. The view from the top is quite nice.

Abby falls. Walk down the flight of steps to reach Abbey falls. Its not possible to take a dip in the falls. It started raining and I beat a hasty retreat. 

Day 6 (01-Jan-2021): Decided to start the new year with a trek to Thadiyante Mol peak. This is the third highest peak in Karnataka. This starting point for the trek is located approx. 1.5 hr from Madikeri. The trail is very scenic and it should be on every visitors list. It’s a moderate difficulty trek and a few do not make it to the top. The trek to the top takes about 2-3 Hrs.

Friends house at Kuttiyadi
Day 7: Drove down to friend’s house in Kuttiyadi. Was fined by the police for taking a bath in an unapproved spot. My purse is lighter by Rs.2000 but I feel the heavy burden of my sins. I should take another holy dip at Papanasham. Slept near Calicut. 

Day 8: Drove back home.

Other blogs in this series

Thadiyantemol trek
Thadiyantemol trek goes through forest and grasslands
Thadiyantemol trek
View from the top of Thadiyantemol Peak
Thrissilery temple
Thrissilery temple
Got fined by police for taking a bath here. At Kuttiyadi
Panamaram Jain temple
Ripe coffee waiting to be harvested
Coffee beans at various stages of sun drying

Talacauvery temple
Talacauvery temple
Talacauvery temple
Abbey Falls
Banasurasagar Dam

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular Posts